Is it a bad idea to go with a remanufactured brake booster?

Kind of an old dead thread but I've been having issues with my calipers locking up after installing new rotors and pads and front doorman yj brake lines (4 inch lift) on my 04 rubicon 5 speed. I have replaced the rear 2 calipers and I'm pretty sure both the front as well. (Did it at different times)

Mostly it's my front passenger side caliper locking up on me. I've bled probably most the system out and filled with new dot 3 brake fluid. What is most likely defective part in the brake system for these calipers to keep sticking on me while barely even using the brake pedal? Jeep has 178,xxx miles.
 
Kind of an old dead thread but I've been having issues with my calipers locking up after installing new rotors and pads and front doorman yj brake lines (4 inch lift) on my 04 rubicon 5 speed. I have replaced the rear 2 calipers and I'm pretty sure both the front as well. (Did it at different times)

Mostly it's my front passenger side caliper locking up on me. I've bled probably most the system out and filled with new dot 3 brake fluid. What is most likely defective part in the brake system for these calipers to keep sticking on me while barely even using the brake pedal? Jeep has 178,xxx miles.

You bleed the system but did you flush all the fluid out and replace with new.
 
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You bleed the system but did you flush all the fluid out and replace with new.

I bled the system so much every time I did work and especially the last time that I'm pretty sure it's almost all new brake fluid at this point. If that makes sense.
 
At this point I would probably remove the caliper and give it a good look, if your fluid is clean and the hoses are good it does not leave much to go wrong except a sticky caliper. Get a clamp or a caliper tool and have someone gently push the pedal to extend the piston, then push it back and try again. There should be hydraulic resistance on the piston but it will retract smoothly.
 
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At this point I would probably remove the caliper and give it a good look, if your fluid is clean and the hoses are good it does not leave much to go wrong except a sticky caliper. Get a clamp or a caliper tool and have someone gently push the pedal to extend the piston, then push it back and try again. There should be hydraulic resistance on the piston but it will retract smoothly.

I thought maybe something with the master cylinder, brake booster, proportioning valve or something of that nature might be failing... Just from some stuff I have read and heard. Would any of those components jump out as a potential issue before the other?
 
A bad booster affects all braking, the proportioning valve is a front rear thing and does not control individual wheels, if it was a master issue both front brakes suffer.
 
A bad booster affects all braking, the proportioning valve is a front rear thing and does not control individual wheels, if it was a master issue both front brakes suffer.

Ok thanks for explaining that. But my point is, all my brakes have locked up at some point or the other and occasionally still do. (Front passenger being most frequent now) seems unlikely that all my old calipers were and now all my new calipers are sticking slightly as well. I saw on a forum where Mr. Blaine mentioned push rod gap from the bosster to the master cylinder being out of tolerance. Could that be the issue in my situation? Just trying to limit amount of time and money spent on parts chasing my tail on this. It's been a frustrating process for me 😫
 
How is your pedal behaving, rule of thumb has the first third of travel doing nothing, second third is primary braking and it should not go to the floor after that.

Generally the push rod although adjustable is usually not tinkered with. We did my son's brakes in his F150 and after new pads, rotors and complete flush/bleed the pedal was still a bit low so a minor adjustment raised the pedal just a bit.
 
How is your pedal behaving, rule of thumb has the first third of travel doing nothing, second third is primary braking and it should not go to the floor after that.

Generally the push rod although adjustable is usually not tinkered with. We did my son's brakes in his F150 and after new pads, rotors and complete flush/bleed the pedal was still a bit low so a minor adjustment raised the pedal just a bit.

My pedal isn't squishy and seems to react fine in my opinion. Doesn't go to floor at all. Might react a bit faster than most to be honest.
 
There are two guide pins on each caliper. Sometimes they dry out/ rust and stick. Look for the mini rubber shock boots. You can peel them back w/ your fingers, dab a little brake grease on them. Or take them out and lightly sand, then grease.
 
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There are two guide pins on each caliper. Sometimes they dry out/ rust and stick. Look for the mini rubber shock boots. You can peel them back w/ your fingers, dab a little brake grease on them. Or take them out and lightly sand, then grease.

Ok I'm gonna try to take it off tonight and do that I think as well as clean everything really well. Hopefully it makes a difference.
 
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There are two guide pins on each caliper. Sometimes they dry out/ rust and stick. Look for the mini rubber shock boots. You can peel them back w/ your fingers, dab a little brake grease on them. Or take them out and lightly sand, then grease.

I found one of those caliper guide pins slightly bent once and holding up the driver's side rear brakes. I replaced it and cleaned the others up and the brake caliper started functioning again normally. So, I'd definitely take those out and look at them closely.

I don't know what it is with brakes and the women in my house. My youngest daughter drove with her emergency brake on once, the oldest daughter bent that caliper pin mentioned above somehow, and my wife took my car to the airport once and when she was coming home said it wouldn't stop very well and the car pulled to the left. She ran over a trash bag and I had to disassemble my front driver's side brake to scrape out a pile of burned on plastic bag holding everything in place.
 
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I found one of those caliper guide pins slightly bent once and holding up the driver's side rear brakes. I replaced it and cleaned the others up and the brake caliper started functioning again normally. So, I'd definitely take those out and look at them closely.

I don't know what it is with brakes and the women in my house. My youngest daughter drove with her emergency brake on once, the oldest daughter bent that caliper pin mentioned above somehow, and my wife took my car to the airport once and when she was coming home said it wouldn't stop very well and the car pulled to the left. She ran over a trash bag and I had to disassemble my front driver's side brake to scrape out a pile of burned on plastic bag holding everything in place.

That's crazy about the bag haha. Bad luck. Hopefully when I grease those guide pins up, I won't have any more issues. I'll admit, I never knew to do that.
 
Generally speaking, if you have to ask this question then you already know the answer.

3 areas to spend good money: brakes, steering, tires.
Why are you quoting me from 3 years ago? 🤣 I cleared this whole thing up back in April of 2017 bro.
 
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Probably my fault. Brought new attention to it with a brake issue.
What did you find out about the caliper glide pins? We’re they seized? Is the piston inside the caliper able to be compressed all the way?
 
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Well I get that and also not sure why your not starting a new thread. It doesn’t sound like your having a power brake booster issue, so I’m confused as to why people are filling up this thread not about a brake booster issue.

Cause then you have people that then start quoting the OP about nonsense and the thread is officially derailed. I also mean no disrespect in this reply it’s just very confusing for not only me but anyone down the line.

I understand that, but I thought maybe I was having an issue with mine based on my observatios because I don't know much about them. Still possibly could be, not sure until I take the suggestions and try them first.
 
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