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Is it a good idea to buy a used ARB super 35 kit?

The4bangertj

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I have 4cyl tj with the 30/35 combo and have been getting to the point wheeling where a locker would be very nice to have. The only problem is in eastern idaho a rear 44 is impossible to find and I still don’t like the idea of an 8.8 swap for the tj. That being said I found an arb being sold that is the 30 spline “super 35” arb locker and shafts. Is this worth the time? It comes with 4.56 gears which I’ll be swapping to 5.13 and you can tell I’ll need a new seal housing and probably spider gears and all the line fittings. I’ll have also get the bearings to fit the 30 spline shafts and c clips. My worry is this is one of the older model arb lockers that had problems or it’s one that doesn’t actually fit the gears I want since it looks to be like a thick gear. I can’t find any marking to tell me what model it is or anything online to give me an idea if this is worth the effort. Trying not to spend too much money since I’m in college and married but with this being my daily and how much snow I drive in I’d like to stay away from a lunch box.

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Blackjack

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It is an RD105 which is current production and with the four popper is a good choice. For the most part there is no case break on a DAna 35 so lower gears will have a thicker ring gear.

Besides the seal housing you will need the ARB shim kit and the specific bearings for that case. Here are the installation instructions to help https://www.4wd.com/sku/ARB 4x4 Accessories/standard/ARB_RD105_INS_1.pdf

The Dana 30/35 ARBs really require the use of a case spreader so make sure you have access to one when you are ready to install.
 
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The4bangertj

The4bangertj

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It is an RD105 which is current production and with the four popper is a good choice. For the most part there is no case break on a DAna 35 so lower gears will have a thicker ring gear.

Besides the seal housing you will need the ARB shim kit and the specific bearings for that case. Here are the installation instructions to help https://www.4wd.com/sku/ARB 4x4 Accessories/standard/ARB_RD105_INS_1.pdf

The Dana 30/35 ARBs really require the use of a case spreader so make sure you have access to one when you are ready to install.

That’s exactly what I wanted to hear, thank you. Are most part available through arb directly such as spider gears? Can’t seem to find replacements for it separately.
 

Wildman

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If you do get it you can get the new collar with air line or repair the one that is on it. I broke the copper line on mine and ordered a new collar but ended up fixing the old one. It really isn't hard to do. You just drill out the old copper line and then insert the line into the hole while use solder and small torch. There are some YouTube videos on it.
 
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The4bangertj

The4bangertj

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If you do get it you can get the new collar with air line or repair the one that is on it. I broke the copper line on mine and ordered a new collar but ended up fixing the old one. It really isn't hard to do. You just drill out the old copper line and then insert the line into the hole while use solder and small torch. There are some YouTube videos on it.

Good to know. I might try that but still buy a new collar for now. I was watching Bfh garage install an arb on a hp30 (super detailed and well put together video) he had a smart idea where he used an old collar that the line is already broken and race bearing on the pinion that’s filed down so he can easily put in and out the carrier to set the gears up easily and then when he’s got the pattern right he puts in his good collar and bearing. Now I just need to decide it I’m putting one in the front while I’m doing the gears.
 

Wildman

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Good to know. I might try that but still buy a new collar for now. I was watching Bfh garage install an arb on a hp30 (super detailed and well put together video) he had a smart idea where he used an old collar that the line is already broken and race bearing on the pinion that’s filed down so he can easily put in and out the carrier to set the gears up easily and then when he’s got the pattern right he puts in his good collar and bearing. Now I just need to decide it I’m putting one in the front while I’m doing the gears.

Yes BFH garage does a excellent job of showing how to do it. And the broken collar idea works great too. Using setup bearings works really well but you to be aware that you need to add a few .0001 of shims when you're ready to install the new bearings. And as Blackjack said use a case spreader to get your ARB installed correctly. The Dana 35 gets a bad rap sometimes but I ran mine with 35" tires for over 2 years. You just have to use the right parts.
On a side not you do not want to use a lunchbox locker in the rear period.
Now slapping a Powertrax NoSlip in the front with the ARB in the rear would be great.

If you were closer I could loan you the case spreader and bearing puller plus all the other tools for setting up gears.
 
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starkey480

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Despite my own later swapping to a Dana 44, I am a really really big fan of the super 35. I put my super 35 through a LOT of wheeling and really tough rock crawling on 35” tires and never had a single issue.

I was definitely in the same boat as you at the time. I was fresh out of college and no money, but had an itch to wheel. I got a used super 35 kit for $400 and it got me out there wheelin for the last 3 years. Got way more than $400 of enjoyment out of that thing.

The only reason I went to a 44 was that current life circumstances and money now allowed it, and I got a really good deal on one at the same time as building my midarm. So it made sense to swap to the 44 at the same time since I would be permanently welding on a very hard to find truss.

The ARBs are also great. I now run them front and rear and highly recommend a selectable rear over something like a Detroit like I had on the super kit.
 
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The4bangertj

The4bangertj

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Yes BFH garage does a excellent job of showing how to do it. And the broken collar idea works great too. Using setup bearings works really well but you to be aware that you need to add a few .0001 of shims when you're ready to install the new bearings. And as Blackjack said use a case spreader to get your ARB installed correctly. The Dana 35 gets a bad rap sometimes but I ran mine with 35" tires for over 2 years. You just have to use the right parts.
On a side not you do not want to use a lunchbox locker in the rear period.
Now slapping a Powertrax NoSlip in the front with the ARB in the rear would be great.

If you were closer I could loan you the case spreader and bearing puller plus all the other tools for setting up gears.

Yes I do realize the limits of the 35 as this route with 30spline are the only real option for locking it. I love the idea of a lunch box up front for my wallet sake but I still like my jeep to drive in the snow as great as it does now. I’ve heard of people putting them in spring time and pulling them in fall but that’s a lot of work just for a lunch box lol.
 
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The4bangertj

The4bangertj

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Despite my own later swapping to a Dana 44, I am a really really big fan of the super 35. I put my super 35 through a LOT of wheeling and really tough rock crawling on 35” tires and never had a single issue.

I was definitely in the same boat as you at the time. I was fresh out of college and no money, but had an itch to wheel. I got a used super 35 kit for $400 and it got me out there wheelin for the last 3 years. Got way more than $400 of enjoyment out of that thing.

The only reason I went to a 44 was that current life circumstances and money now allowed it, and I got a really good deal on one at the same time as building my midarm. So it made sense to swap to the 44 at the same time since I would be permanently welding on a very hard to find truss.

The ARBs are also great. I now run them front and rear and highly recommend a selectable rear over something like a Detroit like I had on the super kit.

Ya I kept looking back at your build forum and Instagram over this. At the time I couldn’t find a 44 and buying a new arb, 30 spline shafts then still gears was a lot so I was pretty set on just doing the front with an arb regear and leave the rear open till I have more money or find a 44. But this locker is being sold at a great price but just didn’t want to buy it and realize it the wrong one or something. Now for the housing strength of the 35 is there anything else I should do it such and weld the tubes or put a little truss on it?
 

Wildman

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Yes I do realize the limits of the 35 as this route with 30spline are the only real option for locking it. I love the idea of a lunch box up front for my wallet sake but I still like my jeep to drive in the snow as great as it does now. I’ve heard of people putting them in spring time and pulling them in fall but that’s a lot of work just for a lunch box lol.

Honestly I've ran auto lockers in a light rig (Suzuki Samurai) and a heavier rig (4cyl TJ) and drove in the snow all the time. It take a little bit to relearn your snow driving skills but it ain't as bad as many make it out to be. And the NoSlip is supposed to be better also but I've never driven one so can't comment.
Just know that in 2WD you'll hardly notice the locker up front.
 
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The4bangertj

The4bangertj

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Honestly I've ran auto lockers in a light rig (Suzuki Samurai) and a heavier rig (4cyl TJ) and drove in the snow all the time. It take a little bit to relearn your snow driving skills but it ain't as bad as many make it out to be. And the NoSlip is supposed to be better also but I've never driven one so can't comment.
Just know that in 2WD you'll hardly notice the locker up front.

Ya I’ve been waiting for the shipment of no slips to return as Jerry has had nothing but good things to say. I wont be installing this arb till spring so I guess I’ll just have to run this winter and see how much I really use 4wd anyways to decide on spending the money on the front.
 

starkey480

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Ya I kept looking back at your build forum and Instagram over this. At the time I couldn’t find a 44 and buying a new arb, 30 spline shafts then still gears was a lot so I was pretty set on just doing the front with an arb regear and leave the rear open till I have more money or find a 44. But this locker is being sold at a great price but just didn’t want to buy it and realize it the wrong one or something. Now for the housing strength of the 35 is there anything else I should do it such and weld the tubes or put a little truss on it?

I never ran a truss on mine and I don’t believe it is necessary.
 

Wildman

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I don't think anyone even makes a truss for the Dana 35 anymore.



I had the Superior Dana 35 truss on mine but it's been discontinued for years now.
 
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The4bangertj

The4bangertj

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So I picked the locker and shafts yesterday. the shafts are alloy and one does show some sign of wear where the bearings ride so I’ll have to get the right 1541h revolution axles at some point. For an arb that needs rebuild and shafts to get me somewhere for 150 bucks I feel can’t be beat. My question now is for the bearings both carrier and shafts are they stock size? The seller said both use stock size bearing which I thought the shaft were larger and don’t use the stock bearings but for the carrier I was just going to buy new ones from arb when I get the spider gears, clutch gear, and seal housing. When I buy new gears from revolution they have a kit with all the shims and what seems to be all the bearing but can I even use any of them?
 
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starkey480

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The actual shaft bearings that go in the tube are same as stock. Even though the 30spline shaft is thicker than 27 spline, the journal is still the same diameter. Someone else can answer the ARB questions better than me but I am pretty sure ARB uses its own shims. Post a pic of the wear on that shaft too. I’m curious.
 
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The4bangertj

The4bangertj

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The revolution axles are only 250 with the bearings so I’m tempted to get them and just keep these as spares but if they use stock 35 bearings I’d prefer to keep this as cheap as possible for the hopes of getting an arb in the front when I set the new gears up. I’m not sure how long these with last and my Jeeps a daily so I don’t want to run and forget them.