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Is it okay to install a MML without a body lift?

Reef

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I was wondering if it’s ok to install a MML without a BL? Just finished a 21/2” OME/Rs5000 lift but I now have Vibration in the driveline. I know the best solution is a SYE and adjustable track bars and control arms but the budget just doesn’t allow it at the moment. My plan is to put in a MML and if that’s not enough then a tranny drop and if that’s not enough then I’ll keep going with the rest until it stops. I am wondering with just the MML are there any clearance issues without doing a body lift other than the fan shroud? And anything else I need to consider?
 

Woodrow

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Its not ideal but I think the easiest and cheapest solution would be a transfer case drop, at least temporarily.

Ultimately, an SYE kit and adjustable rear upper control arms are better. Sometimes, the rear axle rotation with this mod requires extending the shock mounts on the axle rearward (or inverting the shocks, if your particular shocks allow this) and also a axle side track bar mount which raises and brings the attachment point forward to clear your tank.

Edit: you can do a MML which will also help, but to keep your pinion parallel to the transfer case output shaft (in the case of a non-DC driveshaft), you still need to rotate your axle which requires adjustable UCAs at a minimum.
 
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I believe it's just the fan shroud. I did a steering shaft riser and cable TC linkage but I was doing a 1.25" BL at the same time. I highly recommend the 1" MORE mounts over MML blocks.
 
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The blocks/spacers work fine, but I think the solid mounts are more peace of mind with new rubber and bolting directly to the frame. $60 extra bucks to get new motor mounts that are solid construction is worth it to me.

Edit: Just looked at MOREs website. I don't remember paying $183 for the torsion rubber version but I guess that's what it is now. $120 difference between spacers and their mounts. Still worth it IMO
 
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GPK03X

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The blocks/spacers work fine, but I think the solid mounts are more peace of mind with new rubber and bolting directly to the frame. $60 extra bucks to get new motor mounts that are solid construction is worth it to me.
I had vibes with a 2 inch lift. Installed the MORE TORSION RUBBER 1 inch mml and vibes disappeared. A certain forum member that installs lifts professionally says they always replace ujoints in rear driveshafts and never get vibes with small lifts
 
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I had vibes with a 2 inch lift. Installed the MORE TORSION RUBBER 1 inch mml and vibes disappeared. A certain forum member that installs lifts professionally says they always replace ujoints in rear driveshafts and never get vibes with small lifts
I had a similar experience with a 3", but I used blocks the first time around. My mounts were disintegrating so I bought the MORE. Works the same, but gave me more peace of mind with the construction and direct mount.
 

pagrey

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I am wondering with just the MML are there any clearance issues without doing a body lift other than the fan shroud? And anything else I need to consider?
Yes, the pinch seam at the front of the transmission tunnel at the firewall can contact the bellhousing. If you lift the engine and don't lift the body you can get hard contact at that point. The housing on a 42RLE is different than yours but that's where I'd check for problems, mine was hard contact with a pretty small change. Your bell housing is different so I don't really know how it'll work out.
 
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GPK03X

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Yes, the pinch seam at the front of the transmission tunnel at the firewall can contact the bellhousing. If you lift the engine and don't lift the body you can get hard contact at that point. The housing on a 42RLE is different than yours but that's where I'd check for problems, mine was hard contact with a pretty small change. Your bell housing is different so I don't really know how it'll work out.
I did install a 1/2 inch body lift with my MML
 
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Reef

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BC, Canada
I think my plan of attack will be to remove the rear drive shaft and drive it around the block in 4H and see if the vibe is gone. If it is then that confirms it’s the rear shaft so then I’ll change the rear U joints even though the ones in there check out ok. Then I’ll reinstall the shaft and see if the vibe is still there. If it is I’ll unmount the motor and jack it up and insert a 1” plywood spacer and see if there is a clearance issue. If there is a issue there with clearance I’ll drop the tranny mount as much as needed with washers until I see how much of a drop I’ll need then order the correct size spacers and bolts.
 

Woodrow

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I’m in the middle of a tummy tuck (without a body lift) on my 97 sport 4L w/ an AX-15. I just put a 1” MML in (using JKS aluminum blocks). The UCF no body lift skid I’m using with a stock transmission mount raises the transfer case 1 5/8”. I have no tunnel interference issues with the engine up 1” and transfer case up 1 5/8”, so I suspect with your manual‘s bell housing that will be OK at the front tunnel seam. But maybe the NV3550 is different. You still might have to move the fan shroud and also still need to adjust the rear pinion angle up (to remain parallel with the transfer case output shaft) if you go with the MML. Lastly, in my case at least, the 1” MML block install was not as straight forward as I thought. On the passenger side, I had to trim both the aluminum block and the frame side mount to clear the engine bracket.
 
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GPK03X

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I think my plan of attack will be to remove the rear drive shaft and drive it around the block in 4H and see if the vibe is gone. If it is then that confirms it’s the rear shaft so then I’ll change the rear U joints even though the ones in there check out ok. Then I’ll reinstall the shaft and see if the vibe is still there. If it is I’ll unmount the motor and jack it up and insert a 1” plywood spacer and see if there is a clearance issue. If there is a issue there with clearance I’ll drop the tranny mount as much as needed with washers until I see how much of a drop I’ll need then order the correct size spacers and bolts.
I Think you will have enough room with the manual trans. You can just look above it and see. If you do loosen the motor mounts to Jack up the engine you’ll want to loosen the trans mount. I don’t think that’s a good idea as the engine can shift. If I was going to do that , I would have the spacers ready to install.
 
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freedom_in_4low

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I had an MML with stock skid and no BL on my 99 TJ with AX15. There was enough clearance. Things seemed tighter on my LJ with the nsg370. The bellhousing looks straighter, more cylindrical than the more conical Ax15.

PXL_20220513_183959442.jpg
 
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