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Is it possible to upgrade the A/C?

Bigmac

Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2018
Messages
75
Location
29 Palms, CA, USA
The A/C in my Jeep works fine. Most places... But here in 29 palms the temperature is in the 108 or one hundred and teens on a daily basis and summer just got started.

I don't believe anyone makes a kit for it, but theoretically would it be possible to modify the system in some way to make it colder and blow harder? Maybe even route some flexible tube to the back to get the air to my kids?

What would it take? A larger blower motor? Modified hvac box and larger condenser?

The proposition even if possible would be most likely be too expensive and complex to follow through, but I found it to be an interesting question at least.

I had the doors and windows off for a bit, it was... Tolerable.
 

Chris

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Sep 28, 2015
Messages
40,545
Location
Salem, Oregon
There certainly isn't a kit for it, not that I've seen at least.

Theoretically you could buy a larger compressor and custom fit it, but then you'd need other components as well I would imagine, such as a larger condenser unit, evap core, etc.
 

Leinhit

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Joined
Sep 26, 2017
Messages
324
Location
MI
Mini vans run a second set of lines to the back door rear passengers with a separate box and fan. You could get the whole unit from a junk yard Grand caravan and start there.

My old one just spliced the rear set of lines off the front lines if I remembered correctly. I don't know but thought it was the same compressor with larger capacity of fluid....?
 

Steel City 06

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Mar 12, 2019
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Location
Pittsburgh, PA
How about adding insulation instead? There are some good insulating products you can line the tub with under the carpet. This will block heat from both the atmosphere and the drivetrain/exhaust systems. The door panels likely can be insulated with melamine foam panels. (I imagine the half doors are easier to work with.)
You can even insulate the firewall to block heat from the engine.
If you have a hardtop you can also insulate it with a premade kit or melamine foam panels. That will block a lot of the overhead heat.
 

Brianj5600

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Joined
Jul 4, 2018
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621
Location
Middle Tennessee
We don't have such high temperatures in the Southeast, but humidity is horrible. The air is so saturated that sweat does not evaporate. I have also experienced 117-118 degrees and the misery level is similar. I have remote start which helps a ton.

Have you measured high and low pressures? Air temp out of the vent?
How old is the compressor? Is the condenser old? Has the system ever been flushed? Do you have a remote start?
 
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xxdabroxx

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Joined
Mar 31, 2017
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886
Location
Central California, CA, United States
You might could add an electric fan in front of the condenser and switch it with a relay off of the compressor. Another thought that would probably make next to no improvement would be to insulate the lines going to the evaporator after the orifice tube. Might help keep it colder going into the cab.
 
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Wesrj86

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2019
Messages
45
Location
Stringer, MS
@xxdabroxx that's a thought. Will be interested to see if anyone has any thoughts on this. Here in southeast Mississippi ANY help in the A/C area is welcomed.
 

Davidtj

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Joined
May 28, 2017
Messages
381
Location
Florida, United States
Make sure fan clutch is working properly might want to replace with HD model Derale makes a 6 blade fan that I have tested and does pull more CFM through radiator
The suction line from the evaporator is the line that sweats it will be going to compressor will not have ant benefit to insulate it
 

xxdabroxx

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Mar 31, 2017
Messages
886
Location
Central California, CA, United States
Orifice tube is at the crimped spot near the condenser connection. It's a little tough to see but there is condensation on the line beyond the crimp. I doubt you would gain much by insulating it but it couldn't hurt. It would be nice if they installed or orifice tube nearer the evaporator but I guess that would increase the amount of refrigerant needed in the system.
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moab

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Supporting Member
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Dec 15, 2018
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Location
El Segundo, California
How about adding insulation instead? There are some good insulating products you can line the tub with under the carpet. This will block heat from both the atmosphere and the drivetrain/exhaust systems. The door panels likely can be insulated with melamine foam panels. (I imagine the half doors are easier to work with.)
You can even insulate the firewall to block heat from the engine.
If you have a hardtop you can also insulate it with a premade kit or melamine foam panels. That will block a lot of the overhead heat.
I would look into this even if you do upgrade the ac. Some sort of heat barrier could save you several degrees in the cabin. Even just on the tub and firewall.


Is a unique heat barrier product. That blocks something like 97% of radiated heat from the undercarriage, tunnel firewall etc. You can't under estimate how much heat you pick up in the cabin from the firewall and tunnel alone.

Also if you use sound deadener it will insulate from heat as well. Noico on amazon is good stuff. Good price point too. I'm using both sound deadener and heat shield on my tub and firewall.

I would also make sure every piece of rubber on your doors and trim is solid and air tight. And that your soft top fits properly snug. So no air is filtering in or out. Or as much as possible with a soft top.

My AC is stock. And it blasts. When was the last time you had it serviced? Is it running at 100%? It's pretty good stock AC. Better than my wifes Honda minivan.

But I know what your talking about. I was a surveillance operative back in the day. And had to travel to Joshua Tree many times for surveillance. Which included leaving my car running in 110+ heat all day. It would literally kill my engine. It would just die. Not overheat. Just die. I'd have to let it sit. And then start it some time later. And my AC barely kept up with it. It can be brutal.
 
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Bigmac

Bigmac

Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2018
Messages
75
Location
29 Palms, CA, USA
Wow, I did not expect this much input. Knew it was something I'd never seen discussed so I wasn't sure how much feedback I'd get.

I do run insulation against the floor to block some of the radiant heat. My door windows are tinted as all get out and my soft top is tinted as well. I'll look into the lines.

I noticed on my way in to the gym this morning that the AC blows cold enough to turn my fingers to ice cubes on the steering wheel, but the ambient temps are considerably cooler at 5 am. Like I said the system seems to work as designed, it just takes a good while to overpower the stored heat if I get in it at 2 in the afternoon to go somewhere.

Some of these ideas seem simple enough to try if I find a few minutes to tinker on the weekend. In the end it was a "cool" thought, but I'm saving up for outboarding not blower motors. It's only hot here half the year right? 6 months from now I'll be posting about heating 🙄

Thanks all for the interesting conversation 👍