Is it possible to upgrade the A/C?

Are those the same as the ones from the Amazon link that you posted above? I threw those on my wishlist as a future buy.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MikeE024
Are those the same as the ones from the Amazon link that you posted above? I threw those on my wishlist as a future buy.

They are.

So far I’ve used the following sizes:

- 3/4” over the low pressure line near the compressor and near the base of the dryer since the line OD measures around 5/8”;

- 1-1/4” over the rubber line and crimp fittings near the passenger side coil pack area; and

- 2.2” over the Home Depot rubber insulation foam above the valve cover and intake manifold.

– –

I plan to shield the fuel rail and injectors soon for my heat soak issue (the mopar shielding of injector #3 was not enough).

I originally purchased 1/2” but haven’t used it yet. May use it over some wiring on the driver side.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Serbonze
Perfect, thank you. I appreciate the breakdown.

I’ve double insulated injector #3 and added the Design Engineering kit and I still have heat soak issues.
 
  • Sad
Reactions: MikeE024
They are.

So far I’ve used the following sizes:

- 3/4” over the low pressure line near the compressor and near the base of the dryer since the line OD measures around 5/8”;

- 1-1/4” over the rubber line and crimp fittings near the passenger side coil pack area; and

- 2.2” over the Home Depot rubber insulation foam above the valve cover and intake manifold.

– –

I plan to shield the fuel rail and injectors soon for my heat soak issue (the mopar shielding of injector #3 was not enough).

I originally purchased 1/2” but haven’t used it yet. May use it over some wiring on the driver side.

have you done anything to the line running between the orifice (immediately rearward) and the firewall? That's where I expect the biggest results.

I don't know why but the engineers spat in the face of HVAC design best practice when they put the metering device 3 feet from the evaporator...literally turning all that line length into evaporator surface that doesn't contribute anything to cooling the cabin. In every commercial application I've ever seen, it's put as close to the evaporator as physically possible. We won't even put an elbow between the device and the evaporator inlet because the velocity taking a corner stratifies the mixture and feeds part of the coil with straight gas.

1657126956754.png


Basically what you do by putting all that line in the engine compartment is you start already well on your way to right on the "evaporization" line before you ever get to the evaporator coil.

1657127048834.png
 
have you done anything to the line running between the orifice (immediately rearward) and the firewall? That's where I expect the biggest results.

I don't know why but the engineers spat in the face of HVAC design best practice when they put the metering device 3 feet from the evaporator...literally turning all that line length into evaporator surface that doesn't contribute anything to cooling the cabin. In every commercial application I've ever seen, it's put as close to the evaporator as physically possible. We won't even put an elbow between the device and the evaporator inlet because the velocity taking a corner stratifies the mixture and feeds part of the coil with straight gas.

View attachment 341147

Basically what you do by putting all that line in the engine compartment is you start already well on your way to right on the "evaporization" line before you ever get to the evaporator coil.

View attachment 341149

So for those of us following along at home, just where is the "metering device" aka orifice?
 
So for those of us following along at home, just where is the "metering device" aka orifice?

according to the factory service manual, it's in the condenser end of the aluminum line that runs from the condenser, up over the passenger fender between the air box and PDC and then enters the firewall. I haven't had it apart but the post below that says it's in the crimped spot in the second photo would line up with what the FSM says.

Orifice tube is at the crimped spot near the condenser connection. It's a little tough to see but there is condensation on the line beyond the crimp. I doubt you would gain much by insulating it but it couldn't hurt. It would be nice if they installed or orifice tube nearer the evaporator but I guess that would increase the amount of refrigerant needed in the system.

View attachment 103593

View attachment 103594

also you can find out for yourself if you want to run the AC for a while and poke around a hot engine compartment with your hands. The orifice (metering device) will be where the line goes from being really damn hot to approximately the temperature of a beer can fresh out of the cooler.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Zorba
The A/C in my Jeep works fine. Most places... But here in 29 palms the temperature is in the 108 or one hundred and teens on a daily basis and summer just got started.

I don't believe anyone makes a kit for it, but theoretically would it be possible to modify the system in some way to make it colder and blow harder? Maybe even route some flexible tube to the back to get the air to my kids?

What would it take? A larger blower motor? Modified hvac box and larger condenser?

The proposition even if possible would be most likely be too expensive and complex to follow through, but I found it to be an interesting question at least.

I had the doors and windows off for a bit, it was... Tolerable.
Call George @ Air&Sound Boonton NJ. He would know been in biz forever.
 
Orifice tube is at the crimped spot near the condenser connection. It's a little tough to see but there is condensation on the line beyond the crimp.

Confirmed that’s the location. On the lower line to the condenser (before the 90* bend) is a crimp for the orifice tube on my 2005.

5AE9EF2E-A85D-4766-8189-FFAC494FCA41.jpeg


The only line available to me was made by UAC.

54CF95DE-3F88-4EF5-84EE-91B7F0D26EC6.jpeg


have you done anything to the line running between the orifice (immediately rearward) and the firewall? That's where I expect the biggest results.

I don't know why but the engineers spat in the face of HVAC design best practice when they put the metering device 3 feet from the evaporator...literally turning all that line length into evaporator surface that doesn't contribute anything to cooling the cabin. In every commercial application I've ever seen, it's put as close to the evaporator as physically possible.

This makes good sense now that you explained it. I appreciate you taking the time to educate us. Tbh, I didn’t insulate that line because my IR gun read super hot when I checked it last week.

Your comment caused me to check the line by hand even though the IR gun read hot again. It’s cold to the touch aft of the orifice tube crimp. I will absolutely insulate/shield the liquid line once I get the rig back from the transmission shop (goes in tomorrow morning).

For the sake of providing more details, I’ve been driving in decently high heat recently (103* ambient) and my engine bay is screaming hot. My AC is absolutely blowing colder that it was before I insulated the other low pressure lines. Going to be wonderful if things get even cooler by insulating the liquid line as Freedom rightly suggested. 🙂
 
Last edited:
Just so I understand this correctly, you insulate from that crimp all the way back to the firewall?
 
  • Like
Reactions: MikeE024
Thank you both for testing all of this out and sharing the results. Those of us in hot (and in my case humid) climates will all benefit.

I've been following along and trying to keep a list of the recommended products/options. Sorry I can't include links. I'm at work and I'm surprised that I can even access this thread.

Frost King 1/2" rubber pipe insulation - Lowes - Orifice to the firewall
Heat Shroud Aluminized Sleeving Heat Shield fuel line wire heat sleeve 3/4" ID - Amazon - Low pressure line near compressor and near base of dryer
Heat Shroud Aluminized Sleeving Heat Shield fuel line wire heat sleeve 1.25" ID - Amazon - Over rubber line and crimp fittings near passenger side coil pack
Heat Shroud Aluminized Sleeving Heat Shield fuel line wire heat sleeve 2.2" ID - Amazon - Over rubber insultation above valve cover and intake manifold

I think the only one I'm missing is the rubber pipe insulation over the valve cover and intake manifold. If I got any of this wrong, please correct me and I'll edit the post. Are the three foot lengths enough, or did you need to get the ten foot lengths?

My wife and I did a three day trail ride earlier this year, and it felt like we had heat stroke. The brand new AC just wasn't keeping up. The soft top was almost too hot to touch, and so when we got back I started to look for options. I ordered a Hotheads headliner last week, so I'm hoping that the combination of all of these ideas will help at least a little.
 
Last edited:
Thank you both for testing all of this out and sharing the results. Those of us in hot (and in my case humid) climates will all benefit.

1/2" rubber pipe insulation - Lowes - Orifice to the firewall

Yes and also in multiple other locations (valve cover area, dryer lines). The idea is to insulate & shield every cold line you can from the heat. It’s really that simple. :D

Are the three foot lengths enough, or did you need to get the ten foot lengths?

I bought 3.3 feet of the 2.2” foil fiber and it won’t be enough to do the liquid line in addition to the valve cover run.

I have 10 ft of the 1-1/4”. Idon’t have my Jeep with me, but you can estimate your length needs by measuring crimp end to crimp end for the liquid line at the condenser and same measurement for coil pack area.

My wife and I did a three day trail ride earlier this year, and it felt like we had heat stroke. The brand new AC just wasn't keeping up.

I serviced my AC recently and out it back all in spec. It still wasn’t worth a damn with the windows off and half doors. Since doing what I’ve done, I can say that it’s almost uncomfortably cold when contrasted with the oven air I’ve acclimated to. The AC simply didn’t have the bite that it has now (while driving locally which makes the engine bay super hot).

The soft top was almost too hot to touch, and so when we got back I started to look for options. I ordered a Hotheads headliner last week, so I'm hoping that the combination of all of these ideas will help at least a little.

You could also have the headers ceramic coated. I’d ask a shop how much the process would cost vs lower the temps. Might help prevent a potential heat-soak issue. Or maybe just exhaust wrap them before instillation.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Serbonze
I think the only one I'm missing is the rubber pipe insulation over the valve cover and intake manifold. If I got any of this wrong, please correct me and I'll edit the post. Are the three foot lengths enough, or did you need to get the ten foot lengths?

The 1/2” rubber (soft like foam) insulation from Home Depot begins over the valve cover biased to the passenger side where the 1-1/4” fiber/foil insulation will end at the crimp. This is where the ~5/8” low pressure (cold) line runs over to the pressure switch which is where I cut the rubber (you can just cut a slit for the pressure switch into the fiber-foil shielding). I recommend cutting the foam long so you can properly compress/butt-up the ends to prevent line exposure to the heat. You can run the split foam right over the bracket that holds the two lines together above the valve cover.

Btw, the rubber version at Home Depot is a competitor of frost king with better numbers (mentioning this so you don’t focus too hard on the brand).

I have not yet done the firewall to the orifice yet, which is great because now we know there is benefit to doing those other lines. I wish you guys could have been here to notice the difference. Can’t wait to insulate the firewall/condenser line (not sure if I’ll foam the whole line or just some of it). For that liquid line, we will use the 1-1/4” heat shielding (same as near the coil pack) for the crimped in flex-rubber area above the orifice tube.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Serbonze
Going to give this a try and see if it makes any difference. It’s the Frost King rubber 1/2” insulation From Lowes. Installed from the condenser to the firewall.

View attachment 341666

I hope it works for you.

Did my liquid line earlier today as well.

6BDCA938-B629-4F81-BA15-FA4F70196E0C.jpeg


95E7E236-3569-49FC-80E5-B2D634052267.jpeg


A50803B6-4547-4D2B-8BE3-0D5183A12CB7.jpeg


- 1/2” Armacell rubber (Home Depot)
- 1/2” foil-backed fiber shielding
- 1-1/4” foil-backed fiber shielding
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: MountaineerTom
I haven't bought any aluminum backed shielding yet so I just did what I planned with the rubber. I used frost king since home Depot is on the other side of town and lowes is one mile away.

I did the two-phase line (orifice to evaporator) and the short lengths of rigid aluminum suction line on the passenger side.

PXL_20220711_011949167.jpg


PXL_20220711_011956004.jpg


I'm not gonna insulate any of the rubber lines because the thermal conductivity of rubber is generally <1W/m-K compared to aluminum at 237, so... diminishing returns.
 
Last edited:
Wow, I did not expect this much input. Knew it was something I'd never seen discussed so I wasn't sure how much feedback I'd get.

I do run insulation against the floor to block some of the radiant heat. My door windows are tinted as all get out and my soft top is tinted as well. I'll look into the lines.

I noticed on my way in to the gym this morning that the AC blows cold enough to turn my fingers to ice cubes on the steering wheel, but the ambient temps are considerably cooler at 5 am. Like I said the system seems to work as designed, it just takes a good while to overpower the stored heat if I get in it at 2 in the afternoon to go somewhere.

Some of these ideas seem simple enough to try if I find a few minutes to tinker on the weekend. In the end it was a "cool" thought, but I'm saving up for outboarding not blower motors. It's only hot here half the year right? 6 months from now I'll be posting about heating 🙄

Thanks all for the interesting conversation 👍

Mac, What did you end up doing to improve your HVAC?