Is it worth putting ARB air locker on Dana 35 and Dana 30?

[Steel City 06]

I personally recommend saving up the cash and doing everything at once. Buy once, cry once. The fewer times you pay someone to crack open the differential cover, the more you will save overall. If you regear and add lockers at the same time, there can be a labor savings as high as $1000 by doing them together.

First, you'll want to settle on gear ratios. Given that you have a 3 speed auto, I recommend 4.56 for 35s and 4.10 for 33s. If you think you'll likely go larger, go to the next available ratio. We generally don't recommend above 35s. 4.27 or 4.30 would probably be best for 33s, but unfortunately those ratios are only available for the Dana 44.

Second, you'll want good lockers for the and rear. I recommend Eaton E-lockers as they are incredibly simple and easy to install, and the new 4-pinion design is quite tough. And compressed air becomes a non-issue.

You will need a 30 spline rear locker for the Super 35 kit. Do not install a rear locker without the Super 35, or you will regret it when you break an axle shaft. An extra $200 spent now could save you a $2,000 tow and a whole lot of trouble when your shaft snaps in the middle of nowhere.

I personally would also do the Super 30 kit with chromoly shafts at the same time. Go with the Revolution 1350 series chromoly shafts. The Super 30 bumps up the inner shafts to 30 spline, making them exceptionally strong. The U-joint is also increased in strength. Alternatively, RCV makes 30/27 spline Dana 30 shafts. They are a bit pricier, but just as strong and a bit more versatile.

The Super 30 kit is not a requirement, but I do recommend it for peace of mind. Plus it really isn't much more cash over a standard 27 spline setup.

Be sure to replace all the bearings and seals while you're in there, unless they're brand new.

So in summary:

• 4.10 or 4.56 gears (33" vs 35", only for auto 3 speed)
• Front/rear Eaton Elockers (match spline count to new axle shafts)
• 30 spline rear axles (Super 35 kit)
• 30 spline inner (27 outer) chromoly Revolution or RCV shafts (optional, but recommended)
• New bearings, shims, seals

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Thanks much, going to do some shopping... I will get the work done this early in the fall after the local rallys are done.
Plan is:
I'd like to end up with 4:10's (I think) have 3.08's now I'm told, she really drags on the grades. Also want to get lockers, and go from the 31's to 33's, have 3" lift now, hoping that's enough to accommodate the tires. Also thinking a skid plate for the new oil pan, my oil pan is pretty beat up, now pump oil out of it.. All help is appreciated!

As above, what transmission?

 

[Afishinado]

As above, what transmission?

Automatic

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Automatic

Ok that's a 3-speed automatic without an Overdrive. For 33" tires I'd go for 4.10, not 4.56 as would be recommended for a transmission with an Overdrive. Go 4.56 if you see 35" tires in your short-term future.

 

[BC Moto]

I was in the same situation just last week and I have been hunting for TJ Dana44 then I was just about to give up and put JK axles under my TJ like a friend of mine. Then last wednesday a rear Dana44 out of a TJ popped up for sale complete for $400.00! Now im waiting for some chromo axle shafts and some 5:13s then I can install it!

 

[BugoutJeep]

I just installed a Super 35 and ARB locker. If I have issues I will probably just get a built axle and maybe a Dana 44 and I'd really like to try out an Eaton E-locker, but I've never installed one of them. I don't really like the routing of the ARB and I don't like relying on those x-rings or whatever they're called. I'm not saying ARB is a bad product, but I'd like to check out the other main competitor.

I personally like having the single ARB air compressor, not the smallest one, but it's the same compressor as the dual or twin or whatever it's called. I don't use air tools that much anymore and I can even use the air compressor to spray off my intercooler and radiator. I do that sparingly but it's very useful. It's pretty slow, but it works and doesn't need refilling and takes up less space. I run into weird issues that others won't when they're out doing dedicated wheeling.

 

[DWR]

I use my single ARB compressor to air up my 33s. It takes about a minute and a half per tire to go from 15psi to 32psi.

That higher rated compressor is not the standard small ARB compressor most commonly installed with their lockers.

Are you two talking about the ckma12 one? Thats what I have, with 33”, wondering if it would be sufficient.

 

[1o1proof]

if you're definitely going to 33s you might want to rethink that, depending on your transmission, if you have a 5 speed consider 4.56 or 4.88s. I'm not sure which ratio works best for auto transmissions.

I have a 4.0, 5 speed, on 33s with 4.11s, and every time we ride I wish for 4.56s. The 4.11s aren’t horrible, but they are a little fast on idle thru trails and some extra zip on the road never hurts.

 

[1o1proof]

Are you two talking about the ckma12 one? Thats what I have, with 33”, wondering if it would be sufficient.

That’s the compressor I have and yea, it works fine for 33s. I’ve never really timed it, but it goes pretty quick.

 

[BugoutJeep]

Are you two talking about the ckma12 one? Thats what I have, with 33”, wondering if it would be sufficient.

Yeah that's the one I've got. Works great.

There's actually a formula, I think it's for thrust that's nice to look at when looking at gear ratios, tire sizes, engine torque at speed, aerodynamics, etc, but I can't remember what it is. In any case with a specific case as the TJ, I have played around with different ratios and tire sizes.

For 33s I like my 900 ft lbs of torque (gear ratio x torque at highway speed RPM). At 750 ft lbs, I'm shifting some on the highway on steep hills or light towing. If for example you've got 250 ft lbs at let's say 2500 RPMs or above, I would prefer to get myself to that 900 ft lbs for comfortable driving @ 70 mph. That works our perfectly to my experience with my setup ie 3.73 x .79 x 306 @1,800 RPMs or above. It also rings true from countless posts about running 4.56 x .79 x ~250 ft lbs.

The problem with 4.10s x .79 x ~220 ft lbs, because RPMs aren't high enough for the extra torque so in reality you're back to shifting more often. If you've got an OD of 1:1 then not only are your RPMs higher, but you've also got more mechanical advantage after the engine, therefore you're looking at 4.1 x 1 x 250 ft lbs. Now one could just stay in 4th gear most of the time and on downhills and flat land shift to 5th, but that's annoying with a manual transmission. I don't remember the torque curves so that stuff is just guessing on my part what the 4.0 torque curve looks like.

 

[Westtown Willy]

I have a 4.0, 5 speed, on 33s with 4.11s, and every time we ride I wish for 4.56s. The 4.11s aren’t horrible, but they are a little fast on idle thru trails and some extra zip on the road never hurts.

I began with the stock 3.07s, talk about sucking... years ago when I went to do my re-gear and lockers I did a lot of research on the other Wrangler forum , somehow didn't know about this one until a little while later. Anyway the consensus led by @Jerry Bransford seemed to be 4.56 was the way to go; the shop I used actually recommended 4.10s but I overruled them & went with the gurus & damn it if they weren't right. I've been extremely happy with them & even considered 4.88s though I'm glad I didn't as 31s may be in my future next go around with tires, I've been in a slow un-build lately & I'm really liking the direction it's been going. That will be a game day call though, as I really like the look of 33s - seems I want to keep trying to fix what ain't broke, a common ailment in these parts.

 

[Ephry73]

I can fill up all four of my 35x12.50R15 probably four times, maybe five. So that's 16-20 35" tires going from 8 to 25 psi.

That's awesome. I saw they have the 20lb tanks for just 130+ not a bad deal at all

 

[Jerry Bransford]

That's awesome. I saw they have the 20lb tanks for just 130+ not a bad deal at all

I personally prefer the more compact 10 lb. size, it's not in the way as much. Not to mention how the 10 lb. tank's height is just right for where mine is mounted.

 

[JESTER801]

Without a locker Dana 35 can handle going offroad with 33's. If you want inside that Dana 35 or you want to run 35's, you need to install a Super 35 kit with 30 spline 1541H axle shafts.

The front Dana 30 can handle 35's stock, but it needs replacement 4340 axle shafts, 27 spline is fine, to also run a locker.

The plan is the Super 35kit I will reference these parts when I get the work done. Thanks for the info.

I will do onboard air compressor for the lockers and to fill the tires. your co2 system is awesome

 

[Jezza]

Are you two talking about the ckma12 one? Thats what I have, with 33”, wondering if it would be sufficient.

Yes, that is the one I have. It will air up tires, but is not super fast. One of my wheeling buddies has a York with an onboard tank and it is 10x faster to air up with.

 

[cliffish]

Check my parts list ( I know all out of stock, not doing it for a while. I have 05 X 4.0, auto. Don't see myself ever going bigger than 33's (31's now) Rausch creek would probably be the most I would do off roading:

All from 4lo parts

4.56 gears - Rev-TJ-Dana 35-456-K

Super 35 kit with either Detroit or Eaton e-locker (not sure which one??? We do have snow and Ice hear.

For the front Dana 30, do I need to upgrade the axles? and what is appropriate locker a Eaton or Detroit?

Missing anything else. I figure install cost of $1800 - 2000 here in lower NY

 

[BugoutJeep]

Yeah for most the tank is the better solution. The ARB air compressor is a bit more versatile and a bit smaller. Jerry's setup looks pretty awesome though.

I have popped my ARB compressor fuse before after a rain storm and had to use a backup air compressor I keep just for something like this, because it uses a BIG fuse I did not have with me and I didn't want to modify it so I could make it work. I do carry spare fuses now. I just got my tub filled up with a bit of water and some of the exposed wires got submerged.

 

[BugoutJeep]

Here's my Dana 30 list...but I also rebuilt the axle complete with steering and suspension:

Gears: 3.73 Revolution
Gear Selectable Locker: ARB RD 100
Adjustable Track Bar: Currie CE-9120TJJ
Springs: OME 2933
Shocks Rancho: XL9000
Ball Joints: Spicer 706944X Socket Assembly (2 sets)
Lower Control Arm Bushings: Moog K7420 (2 sets)
Upper Control Arm Bushings: Moog K3128 (2 sets)
Cam Bolts: Moog K100047 kit (2 ea)
Brake Pads: Black Magic F-BMBP 477
Brake Rotors: Centric 120.67022 Premium Brake (2 ea)
Axle Rebuild Kit: ARB/Revolution K35-2031 1 set (carrier bearings came with locker)
Moog ES3096L Tie Rod End QTY: 2
Moog ES2079S Tie Rod Adjusting qty: 2
Crown Bump Stop Cup 52087635 qty: 2
Omix-ADA 11121.03 qty: 1
Omix-ADA 11121.04 qty:1
Daystar KJ09101BK poly Bump Stop (1 set)
Spicer 5-760X U Joint Kit (2 sets)
Spicer 46470 Oil Seal (2 ea)
Centric 11758001 disc brake hardware kit (1 set)
SKF BR930014 Wheel hubs (2 ea)
USA Standard Gear USA33442 dust shield for axle shafts (2 ea)
ACDelco 18K947 Caliper Bolt kit (1 kit)
Rugged Ridge 18369.02 Dust boot (1 set)
Spare pinion bearings, pinion nut, pinion seals and crush washer
E-cowlboy Inner Axle Side Seal Install Tool
VEVOR Case Spreader (cheapest from E-bay I could find)

 

[BugoutJeep]

Also with my axle out from under the Jeep I did some rust management stuff.

You might pull your axle too and have a shop setup the gears with new bearings, seals hub bearings, and you can do the other stuff. However in my area, a lot of shops have started to refuse to work on stuff that isn't just dead nuts simple. The certified ARB installer that was local was like $1k for regear and installation of the locker in labor and their price was high on all the components, even with me dropping off the axle out of the Jeep. I just did it myself, but if I have an issue with my Super 35, I'm just gonna install a built axle from maybe ECGS or something.

The issue I've been having is just that I'm acquiring too many projects in every aspect of life and this year has been incredibly difficult to find anyone that will work on stuff without charging $100+/hr and being forced to use parts marked up like crazy.

 

[Westtown Willy]

Check my parts list ( I know all out of stock, not doing it for a while. I have 05 X 4.0, auto. Don't see myself ever going bigger than 33's (31's now) Rausch creek would probably be the most I would do off roading:

Rausch Creek provides more than ample opportunities to grenade any axle you can affix to a TJ so I wouldn't use its topography & features as a factor in limiting a build.

That said, it also provides more than enough trails for the stock Dana 35 to enjoy without much threat of breakage, driver dependent of course.

I floated somewhere in the middle of all of it on essentially the exact build you're seeking, without issue.

Super 35 kit with either Detroit or Eaton e-locker (not sure which one??? We do have snow and Ice hear.

For the front Dana 30, do I need to upgrade the axles? and what is appropriate locker a Eaton or Detroit?

Missing anything else. I figure install cost of $1800 - 2000 here in lower NY

If it's not just a weekend ride & you're actually driving it in the snow/ice then avoid the auto locker in the 35. As far as the front, for 33s most will say no need to upgrade the axles, same advice on avoiding the auto locker.