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Is my full door bent?

FultonD33

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 6, 2021
Messages
122
Location
Tuscaloosa AL
2006 LJ, driver door leaks air at speeds above 55mph. Can push in on the upper left corner where the wind noise comes from, cannot push in on passenger side. I replaced the door seal with an APDTY from Amazon some time ago and cannot remember if the air leak was there prior or not (I think it was). Any ideas what I can replace/straighten? I tried using some wood clamps and pulling it in but no luck there.

 

JEEPCJTJ

TJ Expert
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2018
Messages
4,895
Location
Half way between Pittsburgh and Cleveland
I'm no professional body guy but if my door's window frame needed pushed in I wouldn't bother pushing it. Mainly because I don't think it could be pushed far enough to stay in place. What I would try is opening the door until it's about parallel with the windshield, put my right knee against the inside of the door (kinda even with the upper hinge) and pull firmly (NOT CRAZILY) on the front top of the window frame. Oops! I almost forgot!! ROLL THE WINDOW DOWN FIRST! and FWIW the knee action probably isn't needed, it just seems proper.

Yeah there's potential problems with those little visible tack welds where the window frame connects to the door skin but all I've done about the two of mine that are cracked is add some Fluid Film so they won't rust.

Others may have different ideas.
 
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rhanna

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2020
Messages
547
Location
Gallatin, TN
It looks like you have a hard top on but my door will do that with my soft top if I don't have it set up right. It will be pushed out right where you are pushing so I'd say just confirm that a piece of the hardtop isn't obstructing full closure first.
 
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AndyG

TJ Guru
Lifetime Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2018
Messages
13,077
Location
Alabama
It looks like you have a hard top on but my door will do that with my soft top if I don't have it set up right. It will be pushed out right where you are pushing so I'd say just confirm that a piece of the hardtop isn't obstructing full closure first.

It might be a good idea to just loosen the top and see if you find an optimal point of closure and then re-tighten it
 

AMS417

"The Ayatollah of rock and rolla"
Supporting Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2020
Messages
1,888
Location
Springfield MO
I'm no professional body guy but if my door's window frame needed pushed in I wouldn't bother pushing it. Mainly because I don't think it could be pushed far enough to stay in place. What I would try is opening the door until it's about parallel with the windshield, put my right knee against the inside of the door (kinda even with the upper hinge) and pull firmly (NOT CRAZILY) on the front top of the window frame. Oops! I almost forgot!! ROLL THE WINDOW DOWN FIRST! and FWIW the knee action probably isn't needed, it just seems proper.

Yeah there's potential problems with those little visible tack welds where the window frame connects to the door skin but all I've done about the two of mine that are cracked is add some Fluid Film so they won't rust.

Others may have different ideas.

I bent my full door and frame due to trail damage. With the window rolled down I was able to pull the frame back into shape with my hands just like stated above. Just bend it a little at a time and recheck the fit.