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Is my SYE list complete?

starkey480

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SvtLdr

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imma stay around 3 inches of lift plus a TT later
I'm on 3" lift in the rear with a flat belly skid. My JKS bar barely kissed my tank but I chalked most of that up to my GenRight GTS. It's not doing me any clearance favors.
 

LittleTankTJ

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Some small tips as I just did my SYE. My jeep is my DD so I did the SYE on a Craigslist case and just swapped them.

If your jeep has many miles like mine, the input seal may be leaking. Mine was and I'm glad I pulled it all the way out.
The 450lb harbor freight transmission jack is $130 but made like so much better. It can hold the skid flat when putting it back up. It made taking out/putting in the transfer case much easier.

Wear safety glasses. Schmutz falls like crazy. Get a headlamp, it'll help as well.

If you're small and not strong, don't risk trying to manhandle it. Your teeth, chest, head are worth more than that.

Make sure to support the transmission when dropping the skid. I used a jack stand and 2x4

If it's an auto, I recommend also replacing the lockdown cable at the same time. It'll help with hard shifts.

 
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thekidwithquestions

thekidwithquestions

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I'm conflicted
on one hand I really want to buy the best and the Currie track bar and bracket is the best
but on the other hand... I don't have money, and the JKS track bar and bracket is a good $200 cheaper, but still reliable
but I know its not the best
I'm going to be staying at 3" of lift, and I'll be doing a TT after the SSSYE, I don't do SUPER hard trails, but I would like the ability to be able to if I want to
do my circumstances warrant an expensive Currie track bar or should I settle for the cheaper JKS track bar?
should I really drop $200 extra for extra strength I may never need?
 

Tob

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imma stay around 3 inches of lift plus a TT later
Just as a data point for you, I have about 3 inches of lift and a Savvy tuck, and after adjusting the pinion angle, I needed shock relocation brackets because I could not get enough clearance for my can-down Rancho shocks after trimming the spring perches.
 

SvtLdr

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Keep in mind, from what's been reported here, there's more in the Currie bar than just strength.

Do you have a gas tank skid? What price do you place on the time it might take you to create the clearance between the bar and the skid? $200 in the ballpark?
 
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Tob

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I'm conflicted
on one hand I really want to buy the best and the Currie track bar and bracket is the best
but on the other hand... I don't have money, and the JKS track bar and bracket is a good $200 cheaper, but still reliable
but I know its not the best
I'm going to be staying at 3" of lift, and I'll be doing a TT after the SSSYE, I don't do SUPER hard trails, but I would like the ability to be able to if I want to
do my circumstances warrant an expensive Currie track bar or should I settle for the cheaper JKS track bar?
should I really drop $200 extra for extra strength I may never need?
I'm assuming you are buying all these parts to get rid of a transfer case drop and set yourself up for a tuck down the road?

If so, you can always just wheel it as is for a while until you have the means or budget to buy better parts. Even with the transfer case drop, it would take a serious obstacle to stop you on 33's with 3" of lift. Enjoy it until you find the limits of your current setup.
 
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thekidwithquestions

thekidwithquestions

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Keep in mind, from what's been reported here, there's more in the Currie bar than just strength.

Do you have a gas tank skid? What price do you place on the time it might take you to create the clearance between the bar and the skid? $200 in the ballpark?
I don't have any sorta aftermarket gas tank skid, but I did raise my stock skid an inch by cutting and overlapping and rewelding
 

Tob

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I'm on 3" lift in the rear with a flat belly skid. My JKS bar barely kissed my tank but I chalked most of that up to my GenRight GTS. It's not doing me any clearance favors.
No problems hitting the rear crossmember? Just the tank itself?
 

Tob

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Lake Charles, Louisiana
have these been @mrblaine approved?
I'm a little skeptical about adding leverage to brake my shock mounts
Well, many many people run them without problem. The other solutions are cutting the spring perch, which may or may not give you enough clearance, and cutting and rewelding your existing shock mounts, or welding on some new shock mounts. They do add leverage to the shock mounts, and the mounts do hang lower once you roll the pinion.
 
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