Yep! Do you have access to a welder or someone that can weld? If you don’t it’s ok. You can still run that bracket for a while without it being welded until you can get someone to run a bead along the bottom.does this kit have the correct bracket? CE-9123N-TJ-LJ-Johnny-Joint-Rear-Trac-Bar-w-RockJock-Housing-Bracket-Kit
my dad has a welderYep! Do you have access to a welder or someone that can weld? If you don’t it’s ok. You can still run that bracket for a while without it being welded until you can get someone to run a bead along the bottom.
I'm on 3" lift in the rear with a flat belly skid. My JKS bar barely kissed my tank but I chalked most of that up to my GenRight GTS. It's not doing me any clearance favors.imma stay around 3 inches of lift plus a TT later
Just embrace it. You can always make more money.I'm going to be freaking BROKE
You act like I haven't done this before.I admit this was a challenge working on the bench. Luckily I had a buddy helping out so that second set of hands helped a lot.
No, not at all. Just pointing out the benefit to leaving the case in the Jeep. Less of a wrestling match that way.You act like I haven't done this before.
*beyond* broke. When you think you’re finished, you’re not. You’ll be chasing mods to correct the previous mods. It’s an expensive hobby for sure.I'm going to be freaking BROKE
Just as a data point for you, I have about 3 inches of lift and a Savvy tuck, and after adjusting the pinion angle, I needed shock relocation brackets because I could not get enough clearance for my can-down Rancho shocks after trimming the spring perches.imma stay around 3 inches of lift plus a TT later
which ones did you go with?I needed shock relocation brackets because I could not get enough clearance for my can-down Rancho shocks after trimming the spring perches.
I'm assuming you are buying all these parts to get rid of a transfer case drop and set yourself up for a tuck down the road?I'm conflicted
on one hand I really want to buy the best and the Currie track bar and bracket is the best
but on the other hand... I don't have money, and the JKS track bar and bracket is a good $200 cheaper, but still reliable
but I know its not the best
I'm going to be staying at 3" of lift, and I'll be doing a TT after the SSSYE, I don't do SUPER hard trails, but I would like the ability to be able to if I want to
do my circumstances warrant an expensive Currie track bar or should I settle for the cheaper JKS track bar?
should I really drop $200 extra for extra strength I may never need?
I don't have any sorta aftermarket gas tank skid, but I did raise my stock skid an inch by cutting and overlapping and reweldingKeep in mind, from what's been reported here, there's more in the Currie bar than just strength.
Do you have a gas tank skid? What price do you place on the time it might take you to create the clearance between the bar and the skid? $200 in the ballpark?
Teraflexwhich ones did you go with?
have these been @mrblaine approved?
No problems hitting the rear crossmember? Just the tank itself?I'm on 3" lift in the rear with a flat belly skid. My JKS bar barely kissed my tank but I chalked most of that up to my GenRight GTS. It's not doing me any clearance favors.
Well, many many people run them without problem. The other solutions are cutting the spring perch, which may or may not give you enough clearance, and cutting and rewelding your existing shock mounts, or welding on some new shock mounts. They do add leverage to the shock mounts, and the mounts do hang lower once you roll the pinion.have these been @mrblaine approved?
I'm a little skeptical about adding leverage to brake my shock mounts