Clean those brushes up and inspect them well. I can dig up an extra bolt with a solid buss versus the braided you have and the insulators. How does the inside of the cap look? I have a good spare cap if it looks too rough.
I removed the steel cable and laid it in the box! I will be replacing with my synthetic. It’s a nice steel cable though!Hell yeah nice work! Did it come with a second steel cable?
Are these the brushes? What do I use to clean them? I’m watching vids and someone said use electric contact cleaner to clean the commutator, so would I use the same for the brushes? I guess I need to clean it all up!Clean those brushes up and inspect them well. I can dig up an extra bolt with a solid buss versus the braided you have and the insulators. How does the inside of the cap look? I have a good spare cap if it looks too rough.
Oh got it! Yeah it looks to still be in good shape. I figured you may have a synthetic one to swap over but that should work just fine for your sons rubicon.I removed the steel cable and laid it in the box! I will be replacing with my synthetic. It’s a nice steel cable though!
That looks pretty good. Looks like you just need some clean screws and the bolt/buss bar and some insulators.
That's awesome! Glad to be in this club, and Flame Red club too!Welcome to the club!View attachment 323106
One son has the HF Badlands. It’s fairly new with a steel winch line he’s replacing with synthetic. The other son says he wants to buy my SuperWinch for what I paid for the Warn. He can have his pick of two steel lines or buy synthetic. It’s complicated!Oh got it! Yeah it looks to still be in good shape. I figured you may have a synthetic one to swap over but that should work just fine for your sons rubicon.
What’s next?That looks pretty good. Looks like you just need some clean screws and the bolt/buss bar and some insulators.
Time to split the winch and start looking over everything else just do not remove the brake from the drum. Once we see how that looks I am pretty sure I can dig up what you need. Do not remove the field plates (the big screws) just clean around them the best you can. The grease that winch came with originally is Aeroshell 17 but I doubt you will find that. Currently Warn is using Philips Moly Low Temp #1 and I can source that for you if you cannot find locally.What’s next?
I need
1) buss/bar
2) insulator
3) plastic piece to close the gap (call Warn?)
I’ll get the commutator cleaned up with Emery tape. Can’t remove the 4 screws on the motor housing so I can get all the rust off the housing, but I’ve got Kroil in them.
What grease for the gear side? Want to clean it all up and re-grease, then move to electrical, solenoids and such.
You’re awesome help. I may have to come up to AK and drop a case of beer at your place (or whatever you like).
Seems perfect. Spins easily. I could take a video if you want to take a look. I have nothing to compare it too.How is the bearing?
If it spins smooth with no ticks it should be fine.Seems perfect. Spins easily. I could take a video if you want to take a look. I have nothing to compare it too.
Ok, well, I’m not sure where the brake is or the field plates. Maybe I will know when I get there. I look up the term field plate but can’t find anything about it. I’ll find some of the Philips Moly Low Temp #1. Thanks for all the help!Time to split the winch and start looking over everything else just do not remove the brake from the drum. Once we see how that looks I am pretty sure I can dig up what you need. Do not remove the field plates (the big screws) just clean around them the best you can. The grease that winch came with originally is Aeroshell 17 but I doubt you will find that. Currently Warn is using Philips Moly Low Temp #1 and I can source that for you if you cannot find locally.
Parts list for you https://www.warn.com/Attachment/DownloadFile?downloadId=1864 Those four big screws on the motor case thread into plates that hold the field windings in place. The brake is inside the drum and you do not want to remove it unless replacing it. I will finish digging for the bits you need for the motor tomorrow.Ok, well, I’m not sure where the brake is or the field plates. Maybe I will know when I get there. I look up the term field plate but can’t find anything about it. I’ll find some of the Philips Moly Low Temp #1. Thanks for all the help!
Oh! Good. I tried to remove them but couldn’t. I’ll stop trying!Parts list for you https://www.warn.com/Attachment/DownloadFile?downloadId=1864 Those four big screws on the motor case thread into plates that hold the field windings in place. The brake is inside the drum and you do not want to remove it unless replacing it. I will finish digging for the bits you need for the motor tomorrow.