Is there something wrong with my Savvy under armor parts?

HornedToad

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So while installing my Savvy UA, it quickly became apparent that the four holes top and bottom on both sides are just simply not going to line up with the “c” that wraps around the frame and the “c” that sits on the inside of the frame rail. I looked at several other install threads and it seems like this same part on other tjs has greater bend radiuses where it wraps around the frame which would therefore push the holes further in and into alignment with the other parts. Am I crazy or do I have bad parts on my hands?

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Is there enough room between the inside bracket and inside frame to get an alignment pin to line up the holes and get a fastener through?
 
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Is there enough room between the inside bracket and inside frame to get an alignment pin to line up the holes and get a fastener through?
I put the two biggest punches I could fit in two of the holes but all that did was bend my punches. The inside bracket is totally flush with the inside of the frame rail.
 
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So while installing my Savvy UA, it quickly became apparent that the four holes top and bottom on both sides are just simply not going to line up with the “c” that wraps around the frame and the “c” that sits on the inside of the frame rail. I looked at several other install threads and it seems like this same part on other tjs has greater bend radiuses where it wraps around the frame which would therefore push the holes further in and into alignment with the other parts. Am I crazy or do I have bad parts on my hands?

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From this picture it almost looks like there is distance from the part to the frame is that true? If so have you tried to line them up with a little force?
 
I put the two biggest punches I could fit in two of the holes but all that did was bend my punches. The inside bracket is totally flush with the inside of the frame rail.
Well that answers my question...ive got no experience with the savvy underarmor so im pretty useless,maybe @mrblaine will know what to do or provide better insight.
 
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So while installing my Savvy UA, it quickly became apparent that the four holes top and bottom on both sides are just simply not going to line up with the “c” that wraps around the frame and the “c” that sits on the inside of the frame rail. I looked at several other install threads and it seems like this same part on other tjs has greater bend radiuses where it wraps around the frame which would therefore push the holes further in and into alignment with the other parts. Am I crazy or do I have bad parts on my hands?

View attachment 304777

View attachment 304778
It doesnt look like the top of the part is lined up with the frame on the outside have you tried lining that up and see if the holes align better?
 
So while installing my Savvy UA, it quickly became apparent that the four holes top and bottom on both sides are just simply not going to line up with the “c” that wraps around the frame and the “c” that sits on the inside of the frame rail. I looked at several other install threads and it seems like this same part on other tjs has greater bend radiuses where it wraps around the frame which would therefore push the holes further in and into alignment with the other parts. Am I crazy or do I have bad parts on my hands?

View attachment 304777

View attachment 304778
The short answer is to use a drift. We all had to do it.

Here’s the page mine is on in the build thread.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/05-flame-red-tj-build.3998/page-80
See posts 1582 and 1597. The outer C’s are 1/8” too narrow. Once you do get them on they’re too short to line up with the inner C’s. Then you use the drift to line one up, get it started. Move your drift and get another started, and so on. See post 1611 on the next page of my build thread for some tips. P.s. good snap ring pliers are Knipex.
 
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the brackets i received with my kit were not bent correctly. they were short by the thickness of the material, b4 i had even realized they were wrong Savvy had already shipped me another set, they knew something was up.

the way the piece is bending on the face of the frame as the upper leg tries to bend out to get over the rail suggests its bent a bit tight.
 
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So while installing my Savvy UA, it quickly became apparent that the four holes top and bottom on both sides are just simply not going to line up with the “c” that wraps around the frame and the “c” that sits on the inside of the frame rail. I looked at several other install threads and it seems like this same part on other tjs has greater bend radiuses where it wraps around the frame which would therefore push the holes further in and into alignment with the other parts. Am I crazy or do I have bad parts on my hands?

View attachment 304777

View attachment 304778
The shop used the wrong top punch on those parts. The bend radius is too tight and used up material which moved the holes outboard.

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the brackets i received with my kit were not bent correctly. they were short by the thickness of the material, b4 i had even realized they were wrong Savvy had already shipped me another set, they knew something was up.

the way the piece is bending on the face of the frame as the upper leg tries to bend out to get over the rail suggests its bent a bit tight.
That’s good to know that they sent you a new set. I have had mine for several months and am now just getting to it. I sent Savvy an email so hopefully I can get a hold of some correct ones soon.
 
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Nothing like the designer of the part chiming in on a discussion like this. Blaine takes a quick glance at the photo and can tell immediately what went wrong. Gotta love the resources we have around here!(y)
 
Nothing like the designer of the part chiming in on a discussion like this. Blaine takes a quick glance at the photo and can tell immediately what went wrong. Gotta love the resources we have around here!(y)
I specified the radius bend to conform to the frame corner radius. It makes no sense to do it any other way.
 
I specified the radius bend to conform to the frame corner radius. It makes no sense to do it any other way.
Yeah, I remember your explanation from an earlier discussion. The outer C bend radius was identical to the frame rail on just one side on mine, making it a PITA to get the outer C on and then required a drift to line the holes up with the inner C. Are some outer C’s made correct and others not. If so, why is that?
 
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I specified the radius bend to conform to the frame corner radius. It makes no sense to do it any other way.
And you'd think that a press brake operator would understand the importance of specified bend radius...
Perhaps that detail was lost in translation.
 
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And you'd think that a press brake operator would understand the importance of specified bend radius...
Perhaps that detail was lost in translation.
The operator does what he is told. Generally they will use a common die which is what they did. That is a standard bend radius unless specified which in this case it is.