Is this a good deal on Dana 44 and Dana 30 axle combo with 3.55 gears?

[robo512]

Hey everyone. I got a smokin deal on some 35" tires and I am looking at upgrading my rear axle. I know everything else that needs to be done with 35's (steering, brakes, etc.) I found a dana 44/30 pair for a TJ with 3.55 gears on marketplace for $1500. I did not even know they made TJ's with a 3.55. I know the 3.55 gears aren't ideal and I wouldn't be opposed to swapping them out with 4.88's in the near future. Is this a good deal or should I find something else? The rear spring perches are rotting off so I would have to replace those. I have given a lot of consideration to a Ford 8.8 swap and if I don't find an axle by the time I finish my frame/engine/trans/body work I will be doing the 8.8 swap.

 

[never monday]

I’ve seen
LJ 3.73 pairs of axles for less

 

[Chris]

Consider leaving that Ford 8.8 in junk yard where it belongs. If people did more research on the Ford 8.8 axle swap before doing it, they would come to realize it's a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.

Also consider that "upgrading" to a Dana 44 just to run 35s is a waste of money. You can run 35s on a built Dana 35 (Super 35) all day long as many of us do.

Unless you are getting the Dana 44 for dirt cheap (which you are not for $1500) you are wasting your time.

Some idiot once upon a time started some rumor that an upgraded Dana 35 couldn't handle 35s and that snowballed into one of the biggest internet bullshit myths imaginable.

This horse has been beaten to death so many times. Trust me when I say that a built Dana 35 is just fine to run 35" tires. That's not a myth, it's a FACT.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

3.55 only came in the '97 model TJ, 3.73 started in '98. I'd wait to find a single used Dana 44 that came out of a TJ. You'll save $$$ since you'll still have to regear it, you might as well regear yours and not buy that second Dana 30 too.

X2 to what Chris said, I wouldn't touch that 8.8. That only used to be a popular swap but it no longer is for several reasons. Cost to modify to make it mountable in a TJ, it's narrower, it hangs lower, and its pinion shaft is offset from the tcase output shaft.

 

[robo512]

Consider leaving that Ford 8.8 in junk yard where it belongs. If people did more research on the Ford 8.8 axle swap before doing it, they would come to realize it's a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.

Also consider that "upgrading" to a Dana 44 just to run 35s is a waste of money. You can run 35s on a built Dana 35 (Super 35) all day long as many of us do.

Unless you are getting the Dana 44 for dirt cheap (which you are not for $1500) you are wasting your time.

Some idiot once upon a time started some rumor that an upgraded Dana 35 couldn't handle 35s and that snowballed into one of the biggest internet bullshit myths imaginable.

This horse has been beaten to death so many times. Trust me when I say that a built Dana 35 is just fine to run 35" tires. That's not a myth, it's a FACT.

Thank you I didn't know about the issues with the 8.8 swap. I knew it was shorter and would require wheel spacers which I was not fond of. I'd also rather not do all the fab work if I don't have to. I'm guessing you are running or have run a super 35 before and had good luck? If so, what brand did you use?

 

[robo512]

3.55 only came in the '97 model TJ, 3.73 started in '98. I'd wait to find a single used Dana 44 that came out of a TJ. You'll save $$$ since you'll still have to regear it, you might as well regear yours and not buy that second Dana 30 too.

X2 to what Chris said, I wouldn't touch that 8.8. That only used to be a popular swap but it no longer is for several reasons. Cost to modify to make it mountable in a TJ, it's narrower, it hangs lower, and its pinion shaft is offset from the tcase output shaft.

Thank you Jerry. I definitely have some time to search for the right axle before my Jeep is ready to get back on the road. Would you recommend going with a dana 44 like you said or upgrading my 35 to a super 35 like Chris mentioned?

 

[Chris]

Thank you I didn't know about the issues with the 8.8 swap. I knew it was shorter and would require wheel spacers which I was not fond of. I'd also rather not do all the fab work if I don't have to. I'm guessing you are running or have run a super 35 before and had good luck? If so, what brand did you use?

I don’t personally, but a number of people on this forum do, including @starkey480 who I regularly wheel with down here in the rocks.

Most of the guys use the Revolution Super 35 kit.

 

[Rubicon88]

Not a good deal whatsoever.

#1 3.55 suck with 35's

#2 the combo you're looking at is only being priced high because it has a "44"
Way too much emphasis on that.

You'd be much further ahead finding a 30/35 with 4.56 or 4.88 already installed and maybe even with a locker or two for that money. They do exist. People swap that shit for dana 60's and such so they're available.

Good luck

 

[robo512]

Not a good deal whatsoever.

#1 3.55 suck with 35's

#2 the combo you're looking at is only being priced high because it has a "44"
Way too much emphasis on that.

You'd be much further ahead finding a 30/35 with 4.56 or 4.88 already installed and maybe even with a locker or two for that money. They do exist. People swap that shit for dana 60's and such so they're available.

Good luck

You're right. I did some research and I can get the super 35 kit with the Detroit locker for my rear and re-gear both axles to 4.88 for about $1800 give or take. Has anyone had troubles with the dana 35 housing after doing the super 35 kit? Should I look into trussing it?

 

[JMT]

You're right. I did some research and I can get the super 35 kit with the Detroit locker for my rear and re-gear both axles to 4.88 for about $1800 give or take. Has anyone had troubles with the dana 35 housing after doing the super 35 kit? Should I look into trussing it?

No one's had trouble since I joined the forum in 2017. No need to truss. Just get the S35 kit with locker, 1541H shafts, and you will be G2G. As strong as a Dana 44.

 

[TheBoogieman]

The reason there's so many 8.8 axles available is because even the Ford Exploders they came in don't want them.

 

[never monday]

No one's had trouble since I joined the forum in 2017. No need to truss. Just get the S35 kit with locker, 4340 chromoly shafts, and you will be G2G. As strong as a Dana 44.

Blaine warns against 4340 in a S35.
the only thing I’d change in the OP’s plan is to get an elocker over the POS Detroit

 

[Rubicon88]

You're right. I did some research and I can get the super 35 kit with the Detroit locker for my rear and re-gear both axles to 4.88 for about $1800 give or take. Has anyone had troubles with the dana 35 housing after doing the super 35 kit? Should I look into trussing it?

The rule of thumb with axles is something like this...

Depends on you...the connection between your ears and your right foot.

I'm very serious.
The stronger your axle the less you need to finesse it.

That said I've known some crafty drivers over the years that made some notoriously inferior axles survive over some unbelievable scenarios.
One funny example I can tell you immediately as it stuck in my brain was an AMC 20 with two piece axles behind 450HP, a T18 tranny, 37 " 14 wide swampers.

Never spun a hub.

He ultimately went with a one piece axle or sonething else entirely but not because the notoriously poor design of the AMC 20 failed.

The survival of your axles is really up to you.

 

[robo512]

Blaine warns against 4340 in a S35.
the only thing I’d change in the OP’s plan is to get an elocker over the POS Detroit

I looked into an E locker since it would be a lot better in icy road conditions than the Detroit. It's About $500 more than the Detroit. Is it really worth the extra cash? I know in order to engage the E-locker you need to roll forward a bit so it wouldn't help much if you wanted to engage it after getting stuck. Is there any harm in keeping it engaged all the time while wheeling?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

No one's had trouble since I joined the forum in 2017. No need to truss. Just get the S35 kit with locker, 4340 (being corrected to 1541H) chromoly shafts, and you will be G2G. As strong as a Dana 44.

Just a cautionary correction, Super 35 shafts must be made from 1541H, not 4340. The surface of a 4340 alloy shaft doesn't hold up to the type of outer shaft bearings used in a Dana 35. 4340 is a great choice for the Dana 44 and Dana 30 shafts. 1541H has better surface hardening which holds up to the Dana 35 outer bearings.

 

[never monday]

I looked into an E locker since it would be a lot better in icy road conditions than the Detroit. It's About $500 more than the Detroit. Is it really worth the extra cash? I know in order to engage the E-locker you need to roll forward a bit so it wouldn't help much if you wanted to engage it after getting stuck. Is there any harm in keeping it engaged all the time while wheeling?

You would need to be stuck amd bound up where both wheels couldn’t turn to keep it from actuating.
nothing wrong with it on all the time off road

 

[Jerry Bransford]

You're right. I did some research and I can get the super 35 kit with the Detroit locker for my rear and re-gear both axles to 4.88 for about $1800 give or take. Has anyone had troubles with the dana 35 housing after doing the super 35 kit? Should I look into trussing it?

That'd be a good combination and no worries whatsoever with the Super 35 with 35" and smaller tires on even very tough terrain. Super 35 shafts are actually slightly stronger than Dana 44 shafts and the axle tubes used in the TJ's Dana 35 and Dana 44 axles are the same, they are cut from the same tube stock.

No need for a truss, don't waste your $$$ on it. And since I believe it gets icy where you live, I'd go for the Eaton E-Locker over the Detroit Locker. I LOVE the Detroit Locker and had one in my previous daily driver TJ but it's not a good choice for areas that get icy.

 

[JMT]

Just a cautionary correction, Super 35 shafts must be made from 1541H, not 4340. The surface of a 4340 alloy shaft doesn't hold up to the type of outer shaft bearings used in a Dana 35. 4340 is a great choice for the Dana 44 and Dana 30 shafts. 1541H has better surface hardening which holds up to the Dana 35 outer bearings.

Thank you! I got carried away thinking about an S35 being as strong as a Dana 44. I'll correct my post. EDIT: Looks like you already did, thanks!

 

[robo512]

I just put in a big order for revolution super 35 axles, revolution 4.88 gears, and an eaton 30 spline E-locker for super 35. The last piece of the puzzle is the new Dana 30 carrier to accept the 4.88 gear. Do I need to get a "loaded" carrier with new spider gears or can I get an empty carrier and use my stock spiders?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I just put in a big order for revolution super 35 axles, revolution 4.88 gears, and an eaton 30 spline E-locker for super 35. The last piece of the puzzle is the new Dana 30 carrier to accept the 4.88 gear. Do I need to get a "loaded" carrier with new spider gears or can I get an empty carrier and use my stock spiders?

You can reuse your spider gears if they're in good condition. But new spider gears are neither expensive nor requiring of any break-in. Nice choice of the E-Locker and Super 35 with 4.88 RGA gears. Make sure you insist on the installer filling the axles with CONVENTIONAL GL-5 gear lube like an 85W-140. Don't let them use a synthetic gear lube no matter what they claim or say, it's especially critical you do so during the break-in process.