Is this Teraflex lift a good lift kit?


Jeepinsin04

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Hey everyone! Just browsing the web today and wanted to get some opinions on this lift kit! I have a 2002 automatic tj. It has Dana 35 and Dana 30 differential. I’d have to double check the gear ratio. I’m looking at putting 33’s on her. I know I would need some extra parts for it to make it better. Thoughts?

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Kaden02Tj

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I bought a Teraflex lift for mine and love it. But if I could do it over I would “Frankenstein” my lift with 4” Metalcloak springs and proper length ranch rs9000xl shocks. Along with jks sway bar disconnects and adjustable front track bar instead of a relocation bracket. However if you do not want to cobble things together that is in my opinion a good lift kit choice for the price. You will need a 1” motor mount lift and a 1” transfer case skidplate drop, these together should get rid of any vibrations. Or you could go the route of cv driveshafts and sye kit.
 

kmq102

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Here's a good thread to look over:

 

Duck Doctor

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That Teraflex kit is nowhere near complete. You’ll need adjustable control arms, front track bar, SYE, And DC shaft.

Agree that the Zone 4.25” would be abetter choice. Add an adjustable front track bar and a MML.
 

cpwolf

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Hey everyone! Just browsing the web today and wanted to get some opinions on this lift kit! I have a 2002 automatic tj. It has Dana 35 and Dana 30 differential. I’d have to double check the gear ratio. I’m looking at putting 33’s on her. I know I would need some extra parts for it to make it better. Thoughts?

View attachment 189186
There are some on here who would not touch Teraflex anything, but I'm sure it will work.....
but...

Have you read @Chris sticky thread on lifting a Jeep? If you go 4", and want it to run well, and put 33's, this isn't close to what all you need.

1. You need to know your gearing, going to 33's with bad gearing would suck, from my understanding Especially in Colorado, or you'll have issues on hills, one of the more important factors.
2. Don't put the Drop Pitman arm in this kit on.
3. If you lift it 4", then you will have rear drive line vibrations most likely. The driveshaft angle in the rear will be steep, so you will need either a Transfer Case drop or Motor Mount lift or an SYE with a new drive shaft. If you just "live" with vibrations, it will screw up a lot of other components.

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but just that cost will set you up for trouble....unless you spend more.

You may know all of this, so sorry, but I've been getting an education since my travel has been limited since this silliness started in March, ha. Lot more time when I'm not in airports all the time.
 

cpwolf

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Drop pitman arm, no control arms ... I wouldn't touch it.
agree, I wouldn't lift without putting on adjustable arms after going through fixing the lift on my TJ from the PO.

Kind of strange that so many well known companies include a drop pitman. Making that 1 change made a Massive difference in making the steering better. How the hell can they not know that? Or are they trying to get you hooked on this part and that to try and get it all fixed? Just seems odd.
 

jjvw

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Here are some Metalcloak springs locally. Guy had a mint LJ Rubicon and sold it for a Mustang.

Metalcloak rear coils needlessly reduce up travel
 
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Jeepinsin04

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I love all the information! Thank you guys! I have read up on the thread Chris posted about lifting for beginners. I definitely want to do things right. I’ve also been eye balling this savvy suspension lift. I will find out the gear ratio tonight when I make it home from work!

image.jpg
 

cpwolf

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I love all the information! Thank you guys! I have read up on the thread Chris posted about lifting for beginners. I definitely want to do things right. I’ve also been eye balling this savvy suspension lift. I will find out the gear ratio tonight when I make it home from work!

View attachment 189191
Good call.

I'm ending up "piecing"a mostly Savvy together just because it ended up that way. I've got the Savvy double adjustable CA's, just got my 4" Currie Springs (from Savvy website with the coupon code, ha) and haven't replaced the Rancho sagging springs yet, but I have a JB conversion SS SYE ordered (hopefully UPS starts running down there soon/Hurricane damage) and then a new Driveshaft. It spirals if you're going 4", and the PO skimped some, so I'm getting my components replaced and upgraded.

One other thing to look at is if you have stock rear axle shafts. I can tell you, with 33's we just pulled out of a parking space and the shaft twisted off on the pavement. My 16 year old at the time it was his TJ, he swears he wasn't popping the clutch, I believe him mostly, but the stock shafts can be an issue from my experience with 33's. I had to replace with Revolution Chromoly shafts.
 
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Jeepinsin04

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Good call.

I'm ending up "piecing"a mostly Savvy together just because it ended up that way. I've got the Savvy double adjustable CA's, just got my 4" Currie Springs (from Savvy website with the coupon code, ha) and haven't replaced the Rancho sagging springs yet, but I have a JB conversion SS SYE ordered (hopefully UPS starts running down there soon/Hurricane damage) and then a new Driveshaft. It spirals if you're going 4", and the PO skimped some, so I'm getting my components replaced and upgraded.

One other thing to look at is if you have stock rear axle shafts. I can tell you, with 33's we just pulled out of a parking space and the shaft twisted off on the pavement. My 16 year old at the time it was his TJ, he swears he wasn't popping the clutch, I believe him mostly, but the stock shafts can be an issue from my experience with 33's. I had to replace with Revolution Chromoly shafts.
Yea that for sure is a concern of mine. I’ve been looking at replaces those as well and just upgrading to a Dana 44 for both front and rear.
 

cpwolf

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Yea that for sure is a concern of mine. I’ve been looking at replaces those as well and just upgrading to a Dana 44 for both front and rear.
If I've read correctly, you don't have to pay for a D44. The front isn't an issue until you put in a locker, and put in a Super 35 kit in the rear, and that will handle even 35's no problem. I actually can get away with just the chromo rear axles with 35's probably for now until I do a full regear and S35.

I'd look up the threads on the Super35 for Dana 35 axle you have, probably save you money, my understanding if you're just going to 33's and not 35's you can just put in the Revolution Gear Chromo shafts like I did and be good. Unless you get trapped in the vortex I'm in:

Okay, if I'm going to regear, might as well put in a Super 35
If I've got it open, I might as well put in lockers
If I'm doing that, I might as well put in ARB so I have a built in compressor on the trail to air up after...

Oh, and better switches to turn on the compressor and lockers....fun stuff....
 
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