ISO: Pictures of 1/2” Body Lift

As a suggestion run a 1.25" (or a 1") body lift along with a 1 inch motor mount lift and you will be set up for a tummy tuck, a gas tank tuck; along with more suspension clearance of course. Many people tend to be scared of body lifts, but a quality aluminum body lift thats no more than 1.25" won't cause issues.
 
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I had a Rokmen 1/2" BL on for a few months because it was advertised (by them) as all that was required to run their skid plate. The gain from that size BL is hardly noticeable at the wheel/flare relationship.

Trying to see if i can find any before/after shots.
 
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As a suggestion run a 1.25" (or a 1") body lift along with a 1 inch motor mount lift and you will be set up for a tummy tuck, a gas tank tuck; along with more suspension clearance of course. Many people tend to be scared of body lifts, but a quality aluminum body lift thats no more than 1.25" won't cause issues.

It's mainly the look, especially at from the rear, that dissuades me. I'm trying to get some sense of visual comparison between the two.
 
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There are quite a few rear bumpers that can be raised up to hide the body gap.

A few examples:
  • Rock Hard 4x4
  • Poison Spyder
  • EAG
  • Smittybilt
  • Factory bumper flipped upside-down
 
Here's photos of my old TJ with the Rokmen 1/2" body lift:

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IMG_0928.JPG


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I had a Rokmen 1/2" BL on for a few months because it was advertised (by them) as all that was required to run their skid plate. The gain from that size BL is hardly noticeable at the wheel/flare relationship.

Trying to see if i can find any before/after shots.

Thanks. At this point, I’m not sure I have any need to change out the skid.
 
I had 1". The half inch body lift was/is enough for a TT. I don't get body or fender interference with 31" tires, 3.25" wheel back spacing, 7.5" width fenders, 3" suspension lift, and bump stops set for my shock length. I didn't have tire contact with 2" of suspension lift only. The rear Currie trackbar and Synergy offset axle side mount doesn't touch the tub at full stuff either, so .5" BL serves its purpose.
 
All depends on how flat and high you want the skid. Different tummy tuck levels will require various BLs, like others have stated .5” will qualify some, 1.25” will cover them all.
 
There are quite a few rear bumpers that can be raised up to hide the body gap.

A few examples:
  • Rock Hard 4x4
  • Poison Spyder
  • EAG
  • Smittybilt
  • Factory bumper flipped upside-down

Neat, did no know that the factory bumper could be flipped to hide that gap. Good to know.
 
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So old thread (and maybe there is a body and engine lift build thread), but hoping to get some answers as I am currently running a 1 in or 1.25 in BL and a 1.25 in engine lift on my 2001 TJ. While not required, was recommended with atlas 4 speed installation as no lift would require a lot of pounding of the transmission tunnel. As I get older and appreciate lower lifts, I’m curious how hard it would be to swap in a 1/2 in body lift and possibly a 1/2 inch engine lift. Doubt I could do in my home garage, but maybe…just trying to go through what all would need to be adjusted, with the big things in my mind being steering linkage (is this easy?), the shifters on both the transmission and TC (although think maybe the TC shifters would just sit a little higher). I’m sure there are other things as wel…fuel filler comes to mind, but no idea how much and how much work it actually is if I wanted to take it to a shop.

I know some might say I wouldn’t notice the 1/2 inch difference, but I definitely noticed the BL up, so just exploring options and seeing what others think. I’ve also realized after over 20 years with this jeep I notice a lot more than I used too…so even small changes I do tend to feel.

Thanks!
 
You might not have to adjust anything.
Depends on what was done to accommodate the lift you have.
Take the TC shifter for example; do you have a cable shifter, a drop bracket, or no mod at all.
For most, not much else has to be modified when adding a BL.
The engine lift may or may not have been added to compensate for driveline angle.
 
I did add the engine lift as I knew it would help with driveline angle, but rear driveline is at about 1 degree, so confident I could drop the engine some.

Don’t think I went with the cable shifters for TC, so will have to get under and take a look. Glad to know it might not take much…