Jeep is leaking oil, what could the problem be?

Definitely start at the easiest and work your way to hardest repairs. Change out for conventional, replace the valve cover gasket (probably is time to anyways) and then tackle the rear main if it is not improved. But the best option for that minor leak is to leave some cardboard in the jeep for when you park on your porch, bam problem solved, until it gets worse haha.
 
I'd suggest a "high mileage" conventional oil. They contain special additives to help swell old seals.
Do the valve cover gasket. Fairly cheap and easy. It seems to leak when just sitting because it takes a bit of time for gravity to pull the oil down the back of the block. If you use a 'deep dish' pizza pan or similar underneath the Jeep when you park it then you can avoid any driveway spotting. And when you forget to pull it out before you drive off it won't catch on anything.
 
Flivver250 said:
Wecome aboard. There are a lot of Pakistanis here in the UAE. If you need parts, you might have a friend here that could send them to you. Also a lot of right hand drive Jeeps from Japan here for used parts. Definately switch to regular 10/30 oil.
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Yes i need parts and i have friends tgere but they don’t know where to get those parts from. If you someone please let me know.
or should i try ordering from quadratec or amazon?
 
Couple things I would do before changing that gasket.
1. If you have good engine degreaser, spray it all over, and clean everything under and over, as much as possible. Use a hose and rinse it off good after if you can. Whatever to get the engine top and bottom as free of dirt and oil possible.

2. Let it set if you can, and look for a leak. Try to look often and not start it. You'd be surprised how much just driving can throw oil everywhere.

3. If you can't see it, then get a UV light and test kit if you can. Pour the flourescent fluid into the oil, drive around 10 minutes, park and put the UV light. Purple light will get it to light up bright usually, and you can see exactly where it is leaking.

If you are in the field or remote and cant clean it, but can get your hands on the UV kit, it'll still tell you where the leak is, just put it in, drive some, and check. Don't drive a lot, because it will throw it all over.

Tough to diagnose remote, but don't be fooled into thinking it's only 1 leak. I changed the valve cover gasket, leak was better. Changed Oil pan, got better. Changed rear main seal, finally stopped. Small leak in all 3 when I bought it.
 
The spot you show the engine oil dripping is the most common location.

Unfortunately, it can come from one or more of several locations. The valve cover, head gasket (although unlikely) , the oil pan gasket, and rear main seal. It can even come from the front crank seal and flow along the oil pan to the rear of the engine.

Normal process is to start top down. As others suggest, replace the valve cover gasket. Fortunately, it's the easiest of all the options. Don't worry if you still see some oil after doing the gasket. It takes some time for it to all work it's way to the bellhousing access cover. If it doesn't fix it after a few days / weeks, then move on to the oil pan gasket and RMS. Do these at the same time since you are 85% of the way to the RMS when you pull the oil pan.

Also, in some manual transmissions (i.e. AX-15), motor oil is an approved transmission lubricant. In my case, I had a transmission input seal leak that dripped from the same location.

Don't let this scare you. Start with the valve cover gasket and go from there
 
If it's not your valve cover gasket, which I would guess it's not, it's probably coming from the Rear Main Seal. And that leak is usually cured (not a band-aid fix) by the use of a good conventional (!!!) high-mileage type 10W-30 engine oil like Mobil Super which includes extra seal conditioning additives.

I had a bad RMS leak on my BMW and I was hearing numbers like close to $2000 to fix which I could not afford. It was leaking badly and creating a constant mess on my garage floor and wherever I drove it to. Out of desperation, after reading/researching the problem, I decided to try Mobil Super in my BMW. In 3-4 days of driving, the leak stopped. Completely, 100%. It has not leaked in the couple years since switching to the Mobil Super.

The above is especially likely to fix the leak if you've been running a synthetic engine oil which tends to cause leaks like this.

I was nearly in disbelief the Mobil Super completely stopped my bad oil leak and it hasn't leaked since.
 
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I had what I thought was a rms leak too. After a lot of searching it turned out to be (mostly) oil that spilled after an oil filter change. The oil followed the pan back and then down. Never saw this before. So a sloppy oil change (if recent) could also be a culprit.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
If it's not your valve cover gasket, which I would guess it's not, it's probably coming from the Rear Main Seal. And that leak is usually cured (not a band-aid fix) by the use of a good conventional (!!!) high-mileage type 10W-30 engine oil like Mobil Super which includes extra seal conditioning additives.

I had a bad RMS leak on my BMW and I was hearing numbers like close to $2000 to fix which I could not afford. It was leaking badly and creating a constant mess on my garage floor and wherever I drove it to. Out of desperation, after reading/researching the problem, I decided to try Mobil Super in my BMW. In 3-4 days of driving, the leak stopped. Completely, 100%. It has not leaked in the couple years since switching to the Mobil Super.

The above is especially likely to fix the leak if you've been running a synthetic engine oil which tends to cause leaks like this.

I was nearly in disbelief the Mobil Super completely stopped my bad oil leak and it hasn't leaked since.
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226,000K on my TJ - put synthetic in and started leaking - considering changing it out now and replacing with your 10w-30 idea...see if it seals up. Kicking myself in the head for switching to synthetic.
 
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Coleman said:
226,000K on my TJ - put synthetic in and started leaking - considering changing it out now and replacing with your 10w-30 idea...see if it seals up. Kicking myself in the head for switching to synthetic.
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My 99 TJ leaks in the same spot as this fella. Comes down the bell housing and drops from there. Guy I bought it from works for Mobile and put synthetic in. I’ll take the advice on this thread and change to 10w-30 conventional with seal conditioner. Thank you all. PS. New member here.
 
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RizwanTj said:
My jeep tj 4.0 is standing still for a week and leaking oil. It tends to leak more oil in hot weather and little to no oil leak in cold weather. What could be the problem?

My valve cover is very greasy but the car is still and leaking oil
Please help
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Not sure what could be the problem but only get worry if stops leaking oil.
 
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A rear main seal on a 4.0 is not the kiss of death. At all.

I appreciate being clean, etc...really do, I’m pretty tidy, but don’t worry yourself sick. At the worst, the very worst, they don’t usually leak much. I’ve never seen a rear main seal leak be the death of one and a piece of cardboard handles most of the problem.

Not trying to belittle anyones’ concern, and don’t neglect your vehicle, but dont let it turn you off too bad. The right oil, gently snugging down the valve cover bolts, and a little simple green can do wonders.
 
Watcher412 said:
My 99 TJ leaks in the same spot as this fella. Comes down the bell housing and drops from there. Guy I bought it from works for Mobile and put synthetic in. I’ll take the advice on this thread and change to 10w-30 conventional with seal conditioner. Thank you all. PS. New member here.
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Welcome to the forum, pretty common issue with synthetic oil.
 
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