Jeep newbie - lift kit and couple of other questions

Ol Blue

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You can fit 31 without a lift I say, do a 1.25 body lift and go from there.you might find out sooner than late you wish you had 33’s here is mine on 31’s stock when I got it with out blA2D0A762-3495-45F3-947C-55325D118DA7.jpeg
 

Ol Blue

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Newb to newb I spent money on 1.75 spacers and replaced the front coils to 3 inch and left the rear bb a few months later. Now I have 3 (Currie) inch front with 2 (ome) rear, wishing I have a 4 inch lift !!! Haha, I wish I was just patient and purchased the 4 inch in the first place would have saved a bunch ! JUST DO THE BODY LIFT FOR NOW AND ENJOY THE JEEP!
 
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alexap

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So I have been researching more, looking at the pictures of different builds and tire sizes and although I was debating about H&R I think I will stick to 2" like I was originally.
Only debate right now is should I go with ProComp or OME. (ProComp is a bit cheaper so there is that).
@CodaMan what was the reason you went with 0-1" shocks in front and 2-3" in back? How are your axles, I noticed you did not get adjustable track bars?

@Chris has linked 2"-3" for me here and I have read everywhere they are running long so would that be an issue?

My bumpstops cups are busted completely so I'm ordering those as well. Should these do?
What bumpstops length should I get or do I have to do suspension cycle to figure that out? I thought this being common lift someone could know?

Also, I'm thinking I will try to do this myself now, just hope I can do it in one weekend! :)
 
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BobK

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So I have been researching more, looking at the pictures of different builds and tire sizes and although I was debating about H&R I think I will stick to 2" like I was originally.
Only debate right now is should I go with ProComp or OME. (ProComp is a bit cheaper so there is that).
@CodaMan what was the reason you went with 0-1" shocks in front and 2-3" in back? How are your axles, I noticed you did not get adjustable track bars?

@Chris has linked 2"-3" for me here and I have read everywhere they are running long so would that be an issue?

My bumpstops cups are busted completely so I'm ordering those as well. Should these do?
What bumpstops length should I get or do I have to do suspension cycle to figure that out? I thought this being common lift someone could know?

Also, I'm thinking I will try to do this myself now, just hope I can do it in one weekend! :)
I too debated doing the 1" BL and 2" lift on my own. It did take longer than I expected, but I am a bit fussy and a perfectionist, so I re-did a few steps to make sure it was done right. No one has mentioned the tools that you will need to to this safely and effectively. Here are my suggestions:

- hydraulic jack and wheel chocks
- bottle jack (was helpful in cycling the suspension when the hydraulic jack was occupied)
- two sets of jack stands (one to support the frame and the other to support the axle)
- 1/2 inch impact wrench surely will make things happen faster
- 1/2 inch socket set with extensions and possibly deep well sockets
- 3/8 inch socket set with extensions and possibly deep well sockets
- movable work lighting
- coil spring compressor (you can get loaner at Auto Zone) - I found this to be a must have
- other misc hand tools

I am sure other will have opinions different that mine, or workarounds for some of these, but all of these came in handy and were necessary in my case. Thank goodness for my local Harbor Freight to pickup many of these items.
 
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alexap

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Thank you @BobK for the list, I'm a bit perfectionist (read OCD) myself. :) That's why I want to make sure I have all ducks in row before I move forward.

@bobthetj03 I will make sure I add those as well!
 
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alexap

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So I have been reading this thread https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-can-i-fix-a-rough-ride.17790/ from Bruce20.

Seems like his 2-3" Rancho Shocks were too long for his 2" ProComp springs.
Unfortunately he never replied if he replaced it or fixed it somehow.

@CodaMan you went with similar setup but you used different sizes.
Can you please give me a bit of input on why did you do that?

Thanks!
 

SafariRumbler

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Thank you all for replies! It's very helpful!
So regarding those Ranchos, I see people here love them but looking at some other Facebook groups I got impression that their longevity is not that great?
How often do you recommend replacing them?

One question noone touched tho is about my transmission.
So I did a bit testing this morning.
If I shift at lower RPM's, like just start in 1st and move into 2nd there is almost no any resistance.
However, if I get to like 2k RPM's in first and try to go in 2nd it doesn't go as smooth.
It's kinda weird, it feels like it doesn't align to allow it to pop in or something like that.
As I mentioned, it's much more noticeable on cold weather and when Jeep is just started.

View attachment 133302

Just got 111111 this morning! ;)
Check the trans fluid in neutral. Put the Jeep in neutral then put parking break on. Check your dipstick and see if it’s low. I had the same issue and that’s all it is. Very important to check it in Neutral. (My issue was shifting into 1st though)
 

BobK

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So I have been reading this thread https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-can-i-fix-a-rough-ride.17790/ from Bruce20.

Seems like his 2-3" Rancho Shocks were too long for his 2" ProComp springs.
Unfortunately he never replied if he replaced it or fixed it somehow.

@CodaMan you went with similar setup but you used different sizes.
Can you please give me a bit of input on why did you do that?

Thanks!
I know many folks here espouse the idea of piecing together a "kit" by buying individual parts from different vendors. While everyone is entitled to their opinion, I thought I would throw mine in. While I did this myself on my lift, in hindsight I think it is a mistake and here are my reasons why:

1) You might as well throw out all the directions supplied with any part you buy, since their typical instruction is contained in a list of instructions for their kit. Meaning the order of removal, replacement, and or adjusting will never be correct across the multiple vendors.

2) There is a good likelihood of a situation like you mentioned with the Rancho shocks. Meaning that one manufacturers part may not fit with another manufacturers part.

3) While every reputable manufacturer will be responsible for manufacturing defects, most (if not all) will not take back a part that has been installed, if it is incompatible with another manufacturers part.

4) I heard it more than once when I called a manufacturer for support "oh you mounted our part with brand x's parts, well we don't know anything about that, you're on your own". They may not have said it exactly like that, but that was the implication.

Again, just my opinion, but if I had it to do all over again, I would have bought one big kit with everything I wanted/needed, maybe I would have paid a few buck more maybe not, but I would have had, as one customer of mine years ago used to say to me, " I would rather buy everything from you, since I then have one throat to choke".

Bob
 
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LA_TJ

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31s are a great choice for a mild build that won't break the bank.

While re-gearing isn't necessary, it's still going to be advisable if you want your TJ to drive as good as it can. For re-gearing, see this thread: What gear ratio should I install in my Jeep Wrangler TJ / LJ? (and other re-gearing FAQs)

As far as lifts go, I would skip the BDS lift and piece my own lift together myself. For a 2" lift (which is perfect for 31s) you can either go with the OME front springs / OME rear springs or the ProComp springs, and I would pair those with Rancho RS5000X shocks. I've run almost every off-the-shelf shock you can get for a TJ, and the Rancho RS5000X shocks do indeed ride the best of them, and they are cheap too, which is another plus.

In addition to the Rancho shocks, you'll need to drop your transfer case a bit, unless you plan on installing a SYE and CV driveshaft, and adjustable control arms (which I would do at some point anyways). To drop the transfer case, all you need is longer bolts which you can get at any Home Depot or ACE Hardware. You'll also need stacks of washers to go with them. I'd probably start at an inch of washers for each bolt, which means the bolts you get will need to be an inch longer than stock (and longer if you need more washers).

For bump stops, just use hockey pucks, drill out the centers, and mount them to the lower spring perches using a tap and dye. This it the preferred way to add bump stop, and it's very easy to do.

Lastly, adjustable track bars aren't a must at 2" of lift, but they also won't hurt, and will center the axles laterally under the vehicle. For adjustable track bars, these are the ones I would suggest:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005TTZO9O/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005TTZOU8/?tag=wranglerorg-20

If I left anything out, let me know!
This is the first I've read across several forums about dropping the transfer case for the 2" lift. I s the OP doing something else that I've missed? Is this required for the 2" HD OME springs and Rancho shocks combo we discussed in another thread?

I didn't understand what the hockey puck bump stops are for that you described either. I'm confused...
 
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alexap

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@SafariRumbler My Jeep is manual so this will not work. My Redline MT-90 is coming on Wednesday and I will probably do work over the weekend and report if that has help at all.

@BobK I appreciate your input and that approach is definitively easier for new Jeepers.
I see all kind of different approaches people taking and my head is spinning.

I was almost set on 2" OME springs and 2-3" Rancho shocks and then I found that thread and now I don't know what to do. :) If anyone is running this I would appreciate exact part numbers of Rancho's.


@LA_TJ
From what I picked up, TC drop might be needed but not always. It depends from TJ to TJ. Only way to know is install it, take it for spin, get to 50-60 mph and you should feel or not feel vibrations. If you do then drop TC. If not, enjoy!

Hockey pucks are used as bump stops. It's cheap version. Drill them through middle and mount as many as you need.
 

Chris

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This is the first I've read across several forums about dropping the transfer case for the 2" lift. I s the OP doing something else that I've missed? Is this required for the 2" HD OME springs and Rancho shocks combo we discussed in another thread?

I didn't understand what the hockey puck bump stops are for that you described either. I'm confused...
Yes, with a 2" lift you are going to have to drop the transfer case unless you have adjustable control arms, a SYE, and CV driveshaft.

The bump stops prevent the shocks from bottoming out, your tire from hitting your fender, and other components from crashing into each other.
 

Goatman

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My 06 Rub had OME 2" springs, stock arms, original drive shaft and NO transfer drop. No vibes at all. Just the clunking around of wallowed out original control arm bushings. IDK if the 241 transfer output is the difference, but no DC driveshaft and no vibes.
 
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alexap

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Thank you everyone who answered my questions, you were a great help and I appreciate it a lot.

After a lot thinking and debating what to do I have put my order in:

- H&R 52107
- Rancho RS5000X
- Daystar KJ09108BK (will use in front only to get rid of the rake)
- Bump Stop Cups (Mine are falling apart)
- Daystar KJ09101BK Bump Stop

Please let me know if you think I might need something else!

I am not planning on going more than 31" on tire size and I realized that this is just enough to refresh my suspension and give me a bit more clearance.
I'm hopping everything will arrive by the end of next week so I can start wrenching that weekend!

Also I changed transmission fluid with MT-90 GL-4 tonight and even right away I felt some difference! Idk was it just in my head but will see in the next couple of days. :)

I was finding information that it will take 3.7 or 3.5 quarts but I had much more left.
Then I found old topic from Chris here and it says nicely:

AX-15 5 speed manual
3.32 quarts 75W-90 GL4, or 10W30 (NOT GL5 or GL5 compatible as incorrectly stated in some of the manuals). I highly recommend Redline MT-90.

If it was not this I would be banging my head and probably open that again and try to fill more. So useful!
 
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alexap

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How do you call these things that are going into shocks and are they coming with Ranchos?
I think mine will probably be rusted and maybe I should get new ones?

screenshot_shocks.png
 

Goatman

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Many brands offer a GL4/GL5 compatible gear lube. Not sure what they use to be able to be both. And always preferred to use the right stuff anyway.
Also don't recommend it to others. Just letting you know it is there.
Also highly recommend the Redline over anything else in the 6 speed. It took less than 50 ft after I switched to feel improved shifter.👍