I too debated doing the 1" BL and 2" lift on my own. It did take longer than I expected, but I am a bit fussy and a perfectionist, so I re-did a few steps to make sure it was done right. No one has mentioned the tools that you will need to to this safely and effectively. Here are my suggestions:So I have been researching more, looking at the pictures of different builds and tire sizes and although I was debating about H&R I think I will stick to 2" like I was originally.
Only debate right now is should I go with ProComp or OME. (ProComp is a bit cheaper so there is that).
@CodaMan what was the reason you went with 0-1" shocks in front and 2-3" in back? How are your axles, I noticed you did not get adjustable track bars?
@Chris has linked 2"-3" for me here and I have read everywhere they are running long so would that be an issue?
My bumpstops cups are busted completely so I'm ordering those as well. Should these do?
What bumpstops length should I get or do I have to do suspension cycle to figure that out? I thought this being common lift someone could know?
Also, I'm thinking I will try to do this myself now, just hope I can do it in one weekend!
Check the trans fluid in neutral. Put the Jeep in neutral then put parking break on. Check your dipstick and see if it’s low. I had the same issue and that’s all it is. Very important to check it in Neutral. (My issue was shifting into 1st though)Thank you all for replies! It's very helpful!
So regarding those Ranchos, I see people here love them but looking at some other Facebook groups I got impression that their longevity is not that great?
How often do you recommend replacing them?
One question noone touched tho is about my transmission.
So I did a bit testing this morning.
If I shift at lower RPM's, like just start in 1st and move into 2nd there is almost no any resistance.
However, if I get to like 2k RPM's in first and try to go in 2nd it doesn't go as smooth.
It's kinda weird, it feels like it doesn't align to allow it to pop in or something like that.
As I mentioned, it's much more noticeable on cold weather and when Jeep is just started.
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Just got 111111 this morning!
I know many folks here espouse the idea of piecing together a "kit" by buying individual parts from different vendors. While everyone is entitled to their opinion, I thought I would throw mine in. While I did this myself on my lift, in hindsight I think it is a mistake and here are my reasons why:So I have been reading this thread https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-can-i-fix-a-rough-ride.17790/ from Bruce20.
Seems like his 2-3" Rancho Shocks were too long for his 2" ProComp springs.
Unfortunately he never replied if he replaced it or fixed it somehow.
@CodaMan you went with similar setup but you used different sizes.
Can you please give me a bit of input on why did you do that?
This is the first I've read across several forums about dropping the transfer case for the 2" lift. I s the OP doing something else that I've missed? Is this required for the 2" HD OME springs and Rancho shocks combo we discussed in another thread?31s are a great choice for a mild build that won't break the bank.
While re-gearing isn't necessary, it's still going to be advisable if you want your TJ to drive as good as it can. For re-gearing, see this thread: What gear ratio should I install in my Jeep Wrangler TJ / LJ? (and other re-gearing FAQs)
As far as lifts go, I would skip the BDS lift and piece my own lift together myself. For a 2" lift (which is perfect for 31s) you can either go with the OME front springs / OME rear springs or the ProComp springs, and I would pair those with Rancho RS5000X shocks. I've run almost every off-the-shelf shock you can get for a TJ, and the Rancho RS5000X shocks do indeed ride the best of them, and they are cheap too, which is another plus.
In addition to the Rancho shocks, you'll need to drop your transfer case a bit, unless you plan on installing a SYE and CV driveshaft, and adjustable control arms (which I would do at some point anyways). To drop the transfer case, all you need is longer bolts which you can get at any Home Depot or ACE Hardware. You'll also need stacks of washers to go with them. I'd probably start at an inch of washers for each bolt, which means the bolts you get will need to be an inch longer than stock (and longer if you need more washers).
For bump stops, just use hockey pucks, drill out the centers, and mount them to the lower spring perches using a tap and dye. This it the preferred way to add bump stop, and it's very easy to do.
Lastly, adjustable track bars aren't a must at 2" of lift, but they also won't hurt, and will center the axles laterally under the vehicle. For adjustable track bars, these are the ones I would suggest:
If I left anything out, let me know!
Yes, with a 2" lift you are going to have to drop the transfer case unless you have adjustable control arms, a SYE, and CV driveshaft.This is the first I've read across several forums about dropping the transfer case for the 2" lift. I s the OP doing something else that I've missed? Is this required for the 2" HD OME springs and Rancho shocks combo we discussed in another thread?
I didn't understand what the hockey puck bump stops are for that you described either. I'm confused...