Jeep TJ 4.0 turbo tuning and build (basemap for GM 2 bar map sensor)

TurboTJ4.0

New Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2024
Messages
13
Location
London Ontario Canada
Just wanted to start a thread for poeple to tag along with me and also share info on how to turbo a 4.0 as i found its very difficult to find needed and accurate info especially when it comes to tuning using HP Tuners.

To start off my Jeep is a 2002 TJ sport 4.0 5 speed manual 4" lift and 33s, 3.05 gears with factory LSD, and here is a list of parts going into the build.

Tuning software: HP Tuners
Tuner: Me (I have a backround in tuning for my self and customers, LS swaps, Hondas, DSM, SAAB, Ford, GM, and now Jeeps, using HP tuners, Holley, Megasquirt, etc. I do not have a shop its just a hobby for me)
Map sensor: GM 2 Bar part number: Delphi/GM 12247571 16040609
Wideband: AEM series X (i like the instant reading response these give)
Boost gauge: Glowshift (trying to keep this somewhat on a budget)
Turbo: Cheap $150 amazon with iternal wastgate (i have had very good luck with these lasting for years)
Boost controller: not using one, whatever the internal wastegate runs is what im running likely 5-8 PSI
Injectors: DW 39 LB kit for the Jeep 4.0 part number 18U-00-0039-6 (i love this company and use them in my builds and recomend them to everyone as they are great at posting proper injector data and i have yet to have an issue with any of them)
Intercooler: Not running one to start off as i like to experiment, will be adding one eventually and running it on top of the engine and adding a WRX style hood scoop.
Blow off valve: wont be running one as i like STUTUTU noises (this build is for fun)
Oil feed: generic universal diy kit
Oil drain: going to be testing out a no weld bulkhead style bung on this build out of curiosity, i usually weld in a bung on the pan, but the trucks at work use the bulkhaed style for fill tube and dipstick from the factory so wanted to give one a try and see if it leaks at all.
Air filter: i will be running a 3" inline filter as i want to run the intake from the turbo to the filter and then to a snorkel and have it water tight.

Incase you havent noticed im all about experimenting and having fun with things, its one thing to read something you read in a book or online and believe it, and another thing to do it yourself and learn from your observations and results.



The parts have been arriving for months and i finally got around to starting the build this weekend,

As of today I am at the point where the 2 bar map sensor and wideband are installed and the tune to run the jeep as it ran from the factory on a 2 Bar mpa sensor is complete, next will be to tune in the new injectors to run like factory, then and only after all this is done will the turbo install begin, this is by far the most straight foreward and accurate way to tune an engine if you are going for factory drivability, and one step at a time is also much better for if you run into issues which can be nightmares after changing out 20 plus parts and trying to figure out which one caused you slight hicup thats bothering you, or straight up no starts etc. One part at a time means one part caused the issue clear cut.

First step: GM 2 bar map sensor and tuning.
For tuning if will attach a basemap for a bone stock 2002 TJ 4.0 5 speed running on a GM 2 bar map sensor, I wrote this file myself, it is just a copy of the factory tune but scalled to work with the 2 Bar map sensor and not throw any codes, this actually to my surprise works flawlessly, the Jeep drives like factory, I logged before and after, timing is all perfect and fuel as well, long term and short term fuel trims are right on the money and closed loop, power enrichment, as well as cold and hot starts work as they did from factory.
If you care to see what all was changed feel free to compare my map to your stock file for a better understanding.

Everything in the fuel and spark tables above 52kpa is for boost as 52 kpa is now you new 105kpa in the maps, as you went from 1 BAR to 2 BAR, this is not as simple as cutting the table in half like some othr posts mention, you need to record idle KPA and key on engine off (this is the same as wide open throttle for an NA setup) KPA readings from the stock map then get the same readings from the new map then figure out what numbers in each table match up with eachother and carry over the numbers.

This gets confusing as not all map sensors have the same voltage curve so for example this 2 bar map reads 24-25 kpa at idle where the stock map reads 40kpa so numbers that used to be a 40KPA now belong in the 25 KPA bar, so its not as simple as cutting the tables in half, for WOT the stock sensor reads 103kpa and 2 bar reads 52kpa so WOT is more clear cut conversion, as for the numbers in between your best bet is to use the 3D visualizer in HP Tuners and makes the curves match what the factory curves look like, this is how i like to do it and it works well for me i copied the following bars from the stock map over to the new kpa bar for the 2 bar map 39-23, 65-31, 79-39 105-52, and of course dont touch the lowest bar as it stays the same, do this for all maps related to KPA and tweak a few other items to make the ECU happy and you have a perfect base map to work from.

keep in mind this is a stock map, to run stock injectors with a 2 Bar GM map sensor, aftermarket injectors will add complexity and will not be as striaght foreward as you then have to tune the characteristics in of the new injectors, whic almost never translates as easily as a new map sensor.

Link to the 2 BAR basemap file here as i cannot insert the file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/151tGKwFkcYpebGB01wBlD_wZg3GV9peJ/view?usp=sharing

This is how i setup the MAP for now to test and tune, i will be doing a more permenant setup in the stock MAP location when i get time.

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And my jeep :)

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A small update today this past weekend I permenantly wired up the Wideband (was just rigged up to lay on the dash before, and installed my boost gauge also rigged up the map sensor to fit in the factory location, with the factory 90 stretched over, will see if it splits eventually, but considering how stretchy it still was after 208,000 km i think it should be fine, the map sensor could easily be done much nicer with a 3D printer and a custom bracket, but I don't have one so maybe a future project.

Going to start the turbo install this weekend, first thing will be getting piping to the turbo done and getting the oil feed and drain setup.





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Well, the turbo install went much smoother than i could have asked for, got it done last weekend and have been driving the jeep under boost this past week and put the first tank of 94 octane in it yesterday, currently still on stock injectors so cant go too crazy as it runs out of fuel around 3500-4000 rpm at 10-15 psi... so the issues that im working on right now, firstly the intenal wastgate was set for 14 PSI, so i ordered an aftermarket adustable gate and installed a 4.5 PSI spring, only to find out the internal gate setup in this turbo is basicly useless, it doesnt flow enough to control boost, so after about 3000 RPM boost creeps bad, an exteranal wastgate will solve this issue, other than this the turbo works flawlessly and matches the 4.0 perfectly, gets to 5 PSI at about 1600-1800 RPM very easily giving lots of nice low end torque, after 2000 RPM its very quick to spool, couldn't ask for much better for just chucking a random $200 turbo at it thats around the right size.

The second issue ive come across is closed loop usability with the Jeep ecu, the closed loop RPM based enable and disable dont work right, if you set disable to 2100RPM and enable at 1900 RPM it will never come back on after it kicks out for some reason, i am unsure why, maybe this setting isnt labeled correclty, it does have the ability to disable closed loop over a certian map pressure based on what is set in one of the WOT open loop tables, this does work.... the issue is, what i tune in open loop, doesnt always seem to be what i get, when i get on the throttle enough to push it into open loop whilst running closed loop, im going to hold off on my final opinion of this issue until after i get the new injectors in place and tuned in, i also believe it may just need a bit of transient tuning to work right if im understanding the Jeep ECU tables correctly, will update in the future on this one, for now im running open loop and its working very well under normal driving and boost currently im running 1 degree of retard in the timing per PSI to (this is not enough retard in some areas), and around 12.6-12.8 in boost and it runs great until it hits the limit with the stock injectors, everywhere that i have fueling is knock free on 94, just a heads up if you have 87 left in the tank do yourself a favour and 0 out the timing on the boost side of the table, you will get major knock with 87 and boost, once you have the correct fuel, i went with 94 as its only 2-3 cents more than 91 here, a safe bet would be start with 1.5-2 degrees of retard per psi until getting your fuels in the rough area than slowly bring in the timing and monitor for knock, if you hear knock dial it back a bit, if you dont have a good ear for knock and a stock exhaust this is not a good way to tune, honestly in general hearing knock is never good, so some logic ahead is needed here. for fueling you are basicly going to tune out of boost and the extend that same angle in the table into boost then add 20% as a good starting point. you want the map to look smooth and the boost section should look like a continuation of out of boost.

I'll make sure to post a map of what my final or close to final tune looks like when its done to help anybody who needs it.

Here are a bunch of picture from the install, also the bung for the pan did work but you need to make sure when you tighten on your drain lin you hold the fitting in the pan with a wrench while you tighten the line down as it can rotate if you don't, if you have the option to weld i would go that route, as i wasnt very happy with this option, i also used RTV to ensure is would not leak as the pan wasnt fully flat where i installed it.

Also if you love turbo spool, these engines sound like a cummins with the exhuast straight piped after the turbo, i will definitely be installing a cutout or stright piping it at some point after im done tuning as it sounds amazing with turbo spool on the 4.0.

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Heres an update for you guys, this post will include a tune file for running 4PSI on stock injectors with a 2 BAR map sensor, as well as a file for 6 PSI on 39LB DW injectors and the GM 2 BAR map sensor, both are closed loop, these tunes are both from my jeep, and you may need to adjust your fuel tables slightly depending on your setup, the jeep is currently complete for now, im running on 6PSI non intercooled on 94 octane, injectors are in and tuned, been beating the hell out of it for the last few weeks without issues.

I had to install an external wastgate and rerouted is back into the exhuast, tuned the jeep on stock exhust so i could hear knock if it happened, then striaght piped it and dumped it out the side just after the center transfer case skid plate, it sound amazing, sounds like a cummins with the amount of turbo spool it has, full boost is hit by 2000 RPM, so it has lots of low end torque.

i went with a DNA racing 60MM wastgate, wich is plenty to keep the boost down low and holds rock steady at 6PSI.

for injectors i went with the DW 18U-00-0035-6 as mentioned before, they supply injector data which i converted to work with the jeeps tables, a bit of tinkering with Hot starts and it runs and starts like stock now.

It fully tuned in closed loop, so under about 1/2-3/4 throttle it stays locked at 14.7 AFR.

so far the only small issue i had, is I had a very small lean dip when the map transitions from out of boost area to into boost under light to mid throttle, it was only for about 1/4 of a second and was caused by the LTFT, it does seems to be getting better as i drive it and let the ECU learn, i believe it may be because i did not clear LTFT after tuning in the new injectors.

if you live in a hot area you will 100% need to get the fuel rail heat shield and wrap kit, as the added heat in the bay from the turbo will cause fuel vapor lock as these jeeps do not run a return fuel system.

I also installed my slip yolk eliminator, and wired in a serial input from the AEM wideband to HP tuners to like AFR for tuning.

I beat the snot out of my jeep and can say its holding up very well so far, with about 200-300 WOT pulls to the rev limiter.

On 6PSI with a 4" lift and 33" tires, im about as fast as a bone stock TJ 4.0 on the highway pulls, and a bit faster from a dig, but it sounds amazing and the torque and boost makes it very fun to drive around the city.

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Just wanted to start a thread for poeple to tag along with me and also share info on how to turbo a 4.0 as i found its very difficult to find needed and accurate info especially when it comes to tuning using HP Tuners.

To start off my Jeep is a 2002 TJ sport 4.0 5 speed manual 4" lift and 33s, 3.05 gears with factory LSD, and here is a list of parts going into the build.

Tuning software: HP Tuners
Tuner: Me (I have a backround in tuning for my self and customers, LS swaps, Hondas, DSM, SAAB, Ford, GM, and now Jeeps, using HP tuners, Holley, Megasquirt, etc. I do not have a shop its just a hobby for me)
Map sensor: GM 2 Bar part number: Delphi/GM 12247571 16040609
Wideband: AEM series X (i like the instant reading response these give)
Boost gauge: Glowshift (trying to keep this somewhat on a budget)
Turbo: Cheap $150 amazon with iternal wastgate (i have had very good luck with these lasting for years)
Boost controller: not using one, whatever the internal wastegate runs is what im running likely 5-8 PSI
Injectors: DW 39 LB kit for the Jeep 4.0 part number 18U-00-0039-6 (i love this company and use them in my builds and recomend them to everyone as they are great at posting proper injector data and i have yet to have an issue with any of them)
Intercooler: Not running one to start off as i like to experiment, will be adding one eventually and running it on top of the engine and adding a WRX style hood scoop.
Blow off valve: wont be running one as i like STUTUTU noises (this build is for fun)
Oil feed: generic universal diy kit
Oil drain: going to be testing out a no weld bulkhead style bung on this build out of curiosity, i usually weld in a bung on the pan, but the trucks at work use the bulkhaed style for fill tube and dipstick from the factory so wanted to give one a try and see if it leaks at all.
Air filter: i will be running a 3" inline filter as i want to run the intake from the turbo to the filter and then to a snorkel and have it water tight.

Incase you havent noticed im all about experimenting and having fun with things, its one thing to read something you read in a book or online and believe it, and another thing to do it yourself and learn from your observations and results.



The parts have been arriving for months and i finally got around to starting the build this weekend,

As of today I am at the point where the 2 bar map sensor and wideband are installed and the tune to run the jeep as it ran from the factory on a 2 Bar mpa sensor is complete, next will be to tune in the new injectors to run like factory, then and only after all this is done will the turbo install begin, this is by far the most straight foreward and accurate way to tune an engine if you are going for factory drivability, and one step at a time is also much better for if you run into issues which can be nightmares after changing out 20 plus parts and trying to figure out which one caused you slight hicup thats bothering you, or straight up no starts etc. One part at a time means one part caused the issue clear cut.

First step: GM 2 bar map sensor and tuning.
For tuning if will attach a basemap for a bone stock 2002 TJ 4.0 5 speed running on a GM 2 bar map sensor, I wrote this file myself, it is just a copy of the factory tune but scalled to work with the 2 Bar map sensor and not throw any codes, this actually to my surprise works flawlessly, the Jeep drives like factory, I logged before and after, timing is all perfect and fuel as well, long term and short term fuel trims are right on the money and closed loop, power enrichment, as well as cold and hot starts work as they did from factory.
If you care to see what all was changed feel free to compare my map to your stock file for a better understanding.

Everything in the fuel and spark tables above 52kpa is for boost as 52 kpa is now you new 105kpa in the maps, as you went from 1 BAR to 2 BAR, this is not as simple as cutting the table in half like some othr posts mention, you need to record idle KPA and key on engine off (this is the same as wide open throttle for an NA setup) KPA readings from the stock map then get the same readings from the new map then figure out what numbers in each table match up with eachother and carry over the numbers.

This gets confusing as not all map sensors have the same voltage curve so for example this 2 bar map reads 24-25 kpa at idle where the stock map reads 40kpa so numbers that used to be a 40KPA now belong in the 25 KPA bar, so its not as simple as cutting the tables in half, for WOT the stock sensor reads 103kpa and 2 bar reads 52kpa so WOT is more clear cut conversion, as for the numbers in between your best bet is to use the 3D visualizer in HP Tuners and makes the curves match what the factory curves look like, this is how i like to do it and it works well for me i copied the following bars from the stock map over to the new kpa bar for the 2 bar map 39-23, 65-31, 79-39 105-52, and of course dont touch the lowest bar as it stays the same, do this for all maps related to KPA and tweak a few other items to make the ECU happy and you have a perfect base map to work from.

keep in mind this is a stock map, to run stock injectors with a 2 Bar GM map sensor, aftermarket injectors will add complexity and will not be as striaght foreward as you then have to tune the characteristics in of the new injectors, whic almost never translates as easily as a new map sensor.

Link to the 2 BAR basemap file here as i cannot insert the file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/151tGKwFkcYpebGB01wBlD_wZg3GV9peJ/view?usp=sharing

This is how i setup the MAP for now to test and tune, i will be doing a more permenant setup in the stock MAP location when i get time.

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And my jeep :)

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Cool build. Prepping mine for turbo as well. What size turbo did you go with? Any Dyno results?

Did you HAVE to re-map/tune? I keep seeing things that say as long as you're not going crazy (no idea what that means in numbers) the stock management system will handle fuel-air mix. I was hoping to escape tuning (I know nothing) and go from turbo into intake, but I wasn't sure if that was real or not. ...I guess I assumed tuning was necessary with intercooler, injectors, other stuff, but maybe less needed for a small turbo with a 5lb spring.
 
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071KBV97L?tag=tjforum-20 this is the turbo i went with, I bought the one with internal wastgate, but it proved to be insufficient flow, so removed it and went external, I only do street tuning, no dyno numbers, if I had to guess I'd say about 50-60 hp gains, you 100% need to tune the engine, no ifs or ands about it, these engine are pretty stout if you tune them correctly, spend the money to have a reputable tuner in your area tune it, it will save you money and work of replacing an engine up the road.
 
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Cool build. Prepping mine for turbo as well. What size turbo did you go with? Any Dyno results?

Did you HAVE to re-map/tune? I keep seeing things that say as long as you're not going crazy (no idea what that means in numbers) the stock management system will handle fuel-air mix. I was hoping to escape tuning (I know nothing) and go from turbo into intake, but I wasn't sure if that was real or not. ...I guess I assumed tuning was necessary with intercooler, injectors, other stuff, but maybe less needed for a small turbo with a 5lb spring.

You need tuning to account for the extra air even with a 5 lb spring, and you want to run an intercooler or the IATs will skyrocket.
 

@TurboTJ4.0, a few things:

Your engine isn’t up to temp in the photo (158*f), so your listed IATs (134.6*) will be higher once it’s up to temp and you are in boost. I noticed that the hood louver helps less once your engine is up to temp and ambient temperatures are in the 80*f plus range.

94 octane at higher elevation and cooler ambient temps would allow you to safely push things further than many.

It would be valuable to know your ambient temps, boost, elevation, and engine temps when you capture your IATs.
 
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Was your engine off when you took the screenshot of the VC Scanner data? I noticed that the RPMs and other parameters were showing zero in the screenshot (see below as referance).

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In case you are interested, here’s a screenshot from a highway pull I did last week doing around 94mph at 7psi with ambient temps at 81* and my IATs around 138*.


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If I wasn’t intercooled, the PCM would have pulled timing due to increased IATs, which would have reduced power and caused my EGTs to climb from 1450* to over 1600*.
 
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Not sure what the issue is here, also no idea why you are screenshoting a picture I took showing the wideband signal reading in HP.

Altitude has little effect here as a turbo makes its own pressure, 5 PSI is 5PSI whether you are at sea level or on the moon, the turbo is just working harder at a higher elevation, altough ive used my stock IAT to monitor heat soak in the manifold, and vague IAT, that is at best about all it is usefull for, the factory sensor is slow to react and easily heat soaks (its designed to so it can help monitor manifold heat soak), i can post datalogs all day long with an intake temp rise of 5-10C under WOT 5PSI all day long, its not very useful.

My temps if you desire them from the stock sensor are around 50C at cruising speed out of boost, and up to 70C or higher in traffic. (this is before i built my custom intake box that seals off to the hood and added a scoop for intake air, temps are liekly lower now, but i havent logged them yet) Add 5-10C to these temps during WOT 5PSI pulls if you want to trust the stock sensors to be acurate enough to measure the rapid changes in tempurature created by boost.

Ambient temp is 25C.

Run an intercooler at 5 PSI if you want to, it really doesnt matter to me, is it bad? of course not its only going to help, but its definently not a requirement, manufactures have been building non intercooled cars since the begining of turbo chargers, its extremely common, and not something new or unheard of.

Banks also offered a non intecooled turbo setup for the TJ which ran abut 6PSI, if you dont trust me, then take this as a simple thing you can look up, he has engineers and thousands of hours into developing kits, the guy is not stupid, he is successful for a reason.
 
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An update on the build, i took the jeep on a 1500KM camping/offroading trip a few weekends back, built a makeshift intake box for now to give myself a bit better water security (still going to change this to a custom snorkel setup as it doesnt protect well from water coming over the hood), didnt have any issues with the turbo setup, the jeep ran great on the trails, and i drove the snot out of it, climbed up some stuff i probobly should not have lol, snapped one upper control arm and bent the other to shit (the only stock control arms i have left) all the rough country lowers and X-Flex uppers in rear held up great, really happy with how all the new mods work, also tried out my sway bar disconnect for the first time and what a difference it made.

Probobly wont have much to post for a while as im out using the jeep more in the summer, but some things ide like to get done in the fall, would be get around to installing an intercooler and turning up the boost, first 10 then maybe 15, and hopefully more up the road after i build an engine for it. i have a parts list for the engine just need to begin aquiring parts slowly.

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Not sure what the issue is here, also no idea why you are screenshoting a picture I took showing the wideband signal reading in HP.

My initial thought was that your IATs looked high for an engine that's not up to proper running temp. I then noticed that the engine might not on so none of those numbers listed on the screen would be useful. I added the screenshot to make it easier for you to refer to the numbers I was asking you about.

I'm genuinely curious what your IATs are at 5psi when you engine is up to temp...not when when cruising out of boost or in traffic.

If IATs are too high your rig will still make the same cool noises but less power than it would if IATs were lower.

Altitude has little effect here as a turbo makes its own pressure, 5 PSI is 5PSI whether you are at sea level or on the moon, the turbo is just working harder at a higher elevation,

I understand that the Turbo will boost to overcome lack of atmospheric pressure...until it reaches your spring pressure.

That said, elevation still matters because there is less air density at higher elevation. Example: The air mixing with your fuel is less dense at 5 PSI of boost at 12,000 feet, than if you are at 5 psi at sea level.

But I mainly wanted to know your elevation so that way I could determine your boost pressure when looking at the MAP numbers on your VC Scanner screenshots. But, I now realize that you might not be interested in showing us your numbers at 5psi. You were showing us that the AEM wideband was showing in the system. I've seen that paramater baked into the HP Tuners (super neat!).

altough ive used my stock IAT to monitor heat soak in the manifold, and vague IAT, that is at best about all it is usefull for, the factory sensor is slow to react and easily heat soaks (its designed to so it can help monitor manifold heat soak), i can post datalogs all day long with an intake temp rise of 5-10C under WOT 5PSI all day long, its not very useful.

BTW, my factory IAT sensor is not slow to react. And I know this because I watch it change on my gauge when I drive my vehicle. The 2005 PCM is quite snappy. I can't speak to the 2002 PCM.

My temps if you desire them from the stock sensor are around 50C at cruising speed out of boost, and up to 70C or higher in traffic.

I don't desire to know your temps in traffic or when cruising out of boost. I'd like to know what your IATs are when your engine is up to temperature and you've held 5psi of boost for many seconds. I try to show people the hottest my system gets to help provide a useful data point. I could say my IATs are only 10-15* over ambient when in traffic or cruising, but its much more useful to share how hot my temps can get after sustaining boost.

(this is before i built my custom intake box that seals off to the hood and added a scoop for intake air, temps are liekly lower now, but i havent logged them yet) Add 5-10C to these temps during WOT 5PSI pulls if you want to trust the stock sensors to be acurate enough to measure the rapid changes in tempurature created by boost.

The temps will definitely be lower if the intake is sealed well against the scoop. Pretty neat man :)

Have you considered adding a pre-filter to help prevent water from getting into the foam? Any plans to add small drain holes in case it heavily rains or you take on water above the hood?

Ambient temp is 25C.

Run an intercooler at 5 PSI if you want to, it really doesnt matter to me, is it bad? of course not its only going to help, but its definently not a requirement, manufactures have been building non intercooled cars since the begining of turbo chargers, its extremely common, and not something new or unheard of.

It's a matter of doing things to lower temps so the system makes reliable power. Rather than add an intercooler, you cut your hood to lower IATs. I'm sure you know that you can also add water/meth.

I chose to run an intercooler instead of cutting the hood mainly because it works better, and I don't need to worry about water entering the intake or me not liking the look of my cut hood.

Banks also offered a non intecooled turbo setup for the TJ which ran abut 6PSI, if you dont trust me, then take this as a simple thing you can look up, he has engineers and thousands of hours into developing kits, the guy is not stupid, he is successful for a reason.

You're right, Banks offered a non-intercooled version that wasn't a good idea for many people. That's why Benks turned around and offered a water/meth kit and their intercooler.

I ran Bank's non-intercooled turbo last summer. IATs were 100*-130* above ambient temps when holding 4-6 psi of boost for any significant length of time. I added AEM's water/meth kit but didn't like it, and was fortunate enough to not need it after I installed the Banks intercooler (after making some changes to the kit so it would work with my build).

The intercooler increased the performance and reduced risks associated with higher intake temperatures by lowering the IATs.
 
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An update on the build, i took the jeep on a 1500KM camping/offroading trip a few weekends back, built a makeshift intake box for now to give myself a bit better water security (still going to change this to a custom snorkel setup as it doesnt protect well from water coming over the hood), didnt have any issues with the turbo setup, the jeep ran great on the trails, and i drove the snot out of it, climbed up some stuff i probobly should not have lol, snapped one upper control arm and bent the other to shit (the only stock control arms i have left) all the rough country lowers and X-Flex uppers in rear held up great, really happy with how all the new mods work, also tried out my sway bar disconnect for the first time and what a difference it made.

Probobly wont have much to post for a while as im out using the jeep more in the summer, but some things ide like to get done in the fall, would be get around to installing an intercooler and turning up the boost, first 10 then maybe 15, and hopefully more up the road after i build an engine for it. i have a parts list for the engine just need to begin aquiring parts slowly.

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Sorry about your control arms. Luckily it's an easy fix. :)

It will be interesting to see how your system runs with the intercooler. BTW, I've read that folks were making less power at 10psi than they did at 6psi because the higher IATs caused the PCM to pull timing.

Jezza pushed his intercooled setup further by adding and tuning for water/meth on his dyno to keep IATs down.
 
I'm not going to reply to all of this as its far to time consuming, we are just agreeing on mostly everything here, but i can run a long log for you if your curious.
Just an idea of some my personal cars ive built and tuned myself are a 99 Civic Sir fully built engine medium size turbo, 1973 Jaguar XJ6 Series 1 4.8 LS swap with a small turbo, a SAAB 93 Aero V6 turbo 6 speed manual just did a tune on this one, and also currently have a 2023 Cadillact CT4 sport 2.0T i was messing with JB4 on it but found the piggyback system was absolute garbage and he should be embarassed to sell a product that works so poorly to the public, the jeep will likely get an LS swap or a newer LT based swap way up the road, i would love to have the 10 Speed auto and LT1 out of my 2022 camaro in this but would definatly need to upgrade the axles first, just gotta wait for them to get a bit older and start coming up cheaper for wrecked cars.

il go run a log for you, im also curioud how the temps are now with the intake today it 23C and 33% humidity, ill do a good hour long log right from initial startup and warmup.
 
Here are a few logs for you, i also included a log from the jeep bone stock for reference, to see the heat soak, the stock log was taken on a day that was 6C the logs today at 23C, you can see in the first log why i dont like the factory sensor, it heat soaks bad in traffic, and thats 80% of the driving i do, im going to be buying a standalone gauge eventually that has 2 sensors one for pre turbo and one for after turbo and or intercooler. intake filter was cool to the touch after the pulls today so ide say the intake is working well.

I also turned up the tune today, added 3 degrees in boost and pulled a bit of fuel, this is the final tune for it in this configuration.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1pqSEUtGMtC2qCm3HMrbTYbjWMkaDPWcs?usp=sharing