Jeep Wrangler TJ Cooling System Overhaul FAQ

@Chris I have a couple questions. The link in the first post to the Fan Clutch for my jeep goes to the page for the Hayden 2771 premium fan clutch, which is about $34. A few posts after that, you recommended the Mopar fan clutch, with a different link, and it costs significantly more. I ordered the Hayden part that was linked (along with everything else linked in the first post for my 05 42RLE jeep), but now I'm having second thoughts.

second question - does the linked Stant thermostat need the same bleeder hole adjustment that the Mopar part needs?
 
@Chris I have a couple questions. The link in the first post to the Fan Clutch for my jeep goes to the page for the Hayden 2771 premium fan clutch, which is about $34. A few posts after that, you recommended the Mopar fan clutch, with a different link, and it costs significantly more. I ordered the Hayden part that was linked (along with everything else linked in the first post for my 05 42RLE jeep), but now I'm having second thoughts.

second question - does the linked Stant thermostat need the same bleeder hole adjustment that the Mopar part needs?

They Hayden fan clutch has been proven to be just as good as the Mopar fan clutch. In fact, I believe someone had mentioned that the OE fan clutch is actually supplied to Mopar by Hayden, which wouldn't surprise me at all.

Not 100% sure on the Stant thermostat having the bleeder hole or not. @Jerry Bransford will know for sure, and if he doesn't chime in, I'd post a new topic on it, since so many people have used that thermostat as a replacement.
 
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Stant thermostats don't come with a bleed hole but you can always drill one into its flange if you want one.

Thermostat with drilled vent hole.jpg
 
Hard plastic feel. I can’t deform the shape of the spirals. Looks like it may have been one continuous piece that was broken in two.
1572821946060.jpeg

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Here’s another spiraled thing I wasn’t expecting, but this one seems to have a good purpose.

1572852765320.jpeg


The “spring” was inside the coolant hose. I supposed it is to help prevent the hose from collapsing under vacuum. I had ordered a replacement hose but it didn’t come with the spring - should I just move this spring to the new hose?
 
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Here’s another spiraled thing I wasn’t expecting, but this one seems to have a good purpose.

View attachment 123384

The “spring” was inside the coolant hose. I supposed it is to help prevent the hose from collapsing under vacuum. I had ordered a replacement hose but it didn’t come with the spring - should I just move this spring to the new hose?

Yes, that spring is supposed to be in the lower radiator hose.

Yes it keeps the hose from collapsing.

Yes, I'd reinstall it in the new hose.
 
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It looks like if someone drilled a big hole through some nylon and that was one long curly chip. But that doesn't make sense either..
Those are from inside the heater core tubes. They are designed to slow down the flow to increase heat transfer. I don't think that all have them, but I'm not sure.
 
I'm gathering the parts to do this (109K, recent purchase and it looks all original 😨). I have a couple of questions for y'all:
  1. Why is the Stant recommended over the OEM/Mopar?
  2. When I use OBDII with the Torque app, my real-time coolant temp is showing about 212 degrees after warmup. Could this indicate that my thermostat isn't opening up all the way?
  3. What else should I definitely replace while I have it all apart (pulleys, coolant temp sensor, etc)?
 
Great thread Chris.

I just wanted to add that if anyone is going through the process to clean or renew your coolant system please also take the extra time to flush your heater core. It could be holding a lot of old coolant in its loop.

If you aren’t getting heat through the vents it’s often the heater core isn’t circulating hot coolant through the exchanger. When I flushed my 2000 6cyl the heater core coolant looked like cake batter, and that was after flushing the radiator loop.

Here is a link to a great tutorial on YouTube
Heater core flush
 
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I've done a few 4.0 cooling system overhauls in my days on my Wrangler and a few XJs. A few words of advice based on my mistakes.

Buy OEM Mopar for most parts if you can.

Don't bother with the 'high flow' water pumps. I ran one of those and pulled it three months later. I was effective but came with crap gasket material and most 4.0 like to run around 210; not cooler.

To echo the above, OEM radiator will do you just fine. Took my original 100k to break at the plastic seams. I'm not sure how an aluminum block or more cores would really be worth it as an upgrade. I suppose that depends on your applications. *(IE turbo, etc)

Silicone hoses are not cheap but not detrimental. In my experience I've not noticed any difference between them and OEM except the silicone looks nice and hold their form pretty well compared to OEM of the same age and use.

Sometimes it's best to replace the thermostat housing when you replace the thermostat depending on the POs coolant mixture.

Store brand fan clutches are junk. Two have failed on me in under 10k miles.

An electric fan with an in-cab kill switch on a temperature sensor may or may not be a worthy upgrade. Who knows if it will save you gas? I don't. Don't see any harm in it, though. That will probably be my next $$$ upgrade. $300 shipped for a kit that has a nice aluminum housing.

Flush the system once in a long while but don't leave a flush kit valve installed on the heater hose. It will leak, over time.

Don't forget to test your temperature sensor. Sometimes they aren't as accurate as they seem.

Most 4.0 like to run at around 210. They can start acting weird if they run cooler for a whole host of reasons.

Disclaimer: I'm no expert, not a senior member of this forum, and am not knowledgeable in any way, shape, or form. My opinions are worth fk-all so take them with a grain of the aggregate of your choosing. 😁
 
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Im about to overhaul my cooling system, new radiator, pump, thermostat, hoses, coolant sensor, etc. Depending on which site i go to for the mopar radiator and pump, I get different part #s as well as drastically different prices. Does anyone know where to buy so i can be sure im getting a mopar raidiator and pump?
 
Should I replace my entire cooling system at once?
It's a wise thing to do, yes. Let's say you buy a used Jeep Wrangler TJ with 100k plus miles on it. Well, first and foremost you have to know that as I'm writing this in 2017, your vehicle is anywhere between 20 years old (if it was made in 1997) to 11 years old (if it was made in 2006). Either way, if you have no record of the cooling system having been replaced, then you're on your stock cooling system, and even if the miles are lower, that's still a lot of time for a cooling system. Plastic and rubber wear out over time, as do water pumps, thermostats, seals and coolant.

The number one thing that is likely to fail in stop-and-go traffic or long road trips is most likely your cooling system. Replacing the major components in your cooling system is a fairly inexpensive and easy process. Assuming you use OE replacement parts (which is always recommended for longevity), you can expect an easy 10+ years and 100k+ miles out of your new cooling system.

Stay away at all costs from cheap replacement parts from AutoZone, O'Reiley's, NAPA, and other auto part stores. The parts they sell are known to fail prematurely, and will not last nearly as long as OE Mopar replacement parts.

So yes, it's a very wise idea to replace all of your cooling system components at once. In fact, you'd be a fool not to!


What parts will I need?
I've compiled a list of part numbers for the radiator, thermostat and water pump for our Jeep Wrangler TJ vehicles. I figure this information will be very handy when doing a cooling system overhaul.

A few things to take note of here are that in the links above, I'm only linking to OE Mopar parts (as I believe any other cooling system part--especially ones from local auto part stores--are far inferior). The thermostats I'm linking to are Stant SuperStat thermostats with the factory 195 degree configuration. Stant SuperStats are very highly regarded as being better than OE thermostats for our vehicles.

4 Cylinder (SE) Models:

1997-2002 (2.5 liter 4 cylinder)

Waterpump: 4626054AF
Thermostat: 52028186AC
Thermostat Gasket
Radiator: 55037652AA (Manual Transmission)
Radiator: 55037653AB (Automatic Transmission)
Upper Radiator Hose: 52028266
Lower Radiator Hose: 52079670AA
Fan Clutch: 68065080AA
Replacement Radiator Cap: Stant #10234 (yes, this part is a must if you're refreshing your cooling system)

2003-2006 (2.4 liter 4 cylinder)
Waterpump: 4694307AF
Thermostat: 53010552AC
Thermostat Gasket
Radiator: 55037652AA (Manual Transmission)
Radiator: 55037653AB (Automatic Transmission)
Upper Radiator Hose: 52080030AD
Lower Radiator Hose: 52080031AD
Fan Clutch: 68064765AA
Replacement Radiator Cap: Stant #10234 (yes, this part is a must if you're refreshing your cooling system)


6 Cylinder Models:

1997-1999 (4.0 liter 6 cylinder)

Waterpump: 68382489AA
Thermostat: 52028186AC
Thermostat Gasket
Radiator: 55037652AA (Manual Transmission)
Radiator: 55037653AB (Automatic Transmission)
Upper Radiator Hose: 52028264AB
Lower Radiator Hose: 52079670AA
Fan Clutch: 68065080AA
Replacement Radiator Cap: Stant #10234 (yes, this part is a must if you're refreshing your cooling system)

2000-2006 (4.0 liter 6 cylinder)
Waterpump: 5012366AG
Thermostat: 52028186AC
Thermostat Gasket
Radiator: 55037652AA (Manual Transmission)
Radiator (2000-2004 only): 55037653AB (Automatic Transmission)
Radiator (2005-2006 only): 55037653AC (Automatic Transmission)
Upper Radiator Hose: 52028264AB
Lower Radiator Hose: 52079670AA
Fan Clutch: 68064765AA
Replacement Radiator Cap: Stant #10234 (yes, this part is a must if you're refreshing your cooling system)


Should I go with a low temp thermostat?
No, do not buy into the hype that a low temperature thermostat is going to benefit you. There are very, very few cases where a low thermostat will be of any benefit. For 99% of us, they're going to make things worse since the engine will take longer to warm up which can have a handful of negative effects on the engine, performance, and potentially even fuel economy. Whoever started the whole "low temp thermostat" idea needs to be shot, seriously.

Your Jeep was designed by Jeep engineers to operate within a certain temperature range. Making it operate cooler than that designate temperature goes against everything that is programmed into the ECU. There's a reason engineers did the things that they did, and if you're dumb enough to try and reverse engineer it because you think you're smarter than they are, well, then perhaps you're on your way to a Darwin Award :p

Seriously though, all humor aside, don't use a low temp thermostat unless you have some sort of very, very special use case (which doesn't count as "I go rock crawling").


Why do some later model and aftermarket thermostats have either a very small bleeder hole, or no bleeder hole at all?
According to @mrblaine, the later Mopar thermostats and others of similar design have changed the bleeder hole to be nearly non functioning. We've noted the change in the self burping function many times and finally resorted to drilling a 1/8" diameter hole next to the jiggler which solved the problem and made them work as before. The later ones are not self burping in the least until you fix them.

So in other words, you can drill a 1/8" hole in your new thermostat if it has a hole that is much too small, or no hole at all. It's very easy to do and nothing to stress over.

There's a very good discussion on this subject in this thread.


What kind of coolant should I use?
In my opinion you should be using HOAT coolant in your Jeep Wrangler TJ. Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) is a combination of IAT and OAT. Several manufacturers are using HOAT for their vehicles. One version is dyed orange and contains 10% recycled antifreeze. Another version is dyed yellow and does not contain any recycled antifreeze. Both of these HOAT antifreezes use the marketing designator of GO-5. They are compatible with each other but mixing them with IAT or OAT is not recommended. The normal HOAT antifreeze service life is 5 years or 150,000 miles (250,000 km).

A perfect example of a good HOAT coolant for use in your Jeep Wrangler TJ is the OE Mopar coolant or Zero G-05 coolant.


How much coolant should I use?
See this thread for fluid capacities (it varies depending on which model TJ you have): Jeep Wrangler TJ Fluid Capacities


Tap water or distilled water?
If you are flushing your cooling system or using a coolant that is not pre-diluted, DO NOT use anything other than distilled water. You can buy gallons of it at your local grocery store for less than 99 cents. Distilled water doesn't have the minerals in it that tap water does. If you fill or flush your cooling system with tap water, you will start to see rust build up (which turns brown in the coolant) that occurs sometimes in as soon as months. This will ultimately destroy your cooling system in short order, and make a big mess of things.


How do I replace the radiator?
See this thread: Jeep Wrangler TJ Radiator Replacement


How do I replace the water pump?
See this thread: Jeep Wrangler TJ Water Pump Replacement


How do I flush the cooling system?
See this thread: How to flush the cooling system on your Jeep Wrangler TJ


What kind of hose clamps should I use?
Contrary to popular belief, a "worm gear clamp" is not the way to go with cooling system hoses. What you want to do is re-use the stock "constant tension" clamps (which you can also find on Amazon in various different sizes). The stock "constant tension" clamps are far superior than a "worm gear clamp" because they apply constant tension as the name suggests. The problem with the worm gear clamps is that often times you'll get it tightened down too much, and it can cause a very small leak in one area of the hose where the clamp might not have enough pressure or have something under it causing it to not seal correctly.

I've seen a lot of cooling system hoses (especially radiator hoses) leak, and it was entirely due to the person using a worm gear clamp as oppose to the constant tension style. There's a reason the factory uses the constant tension clamps, and you should re-use them or source out new ones (if yours is missing them) if you're going through the process of overhauling your cooling system.
Super helpful post. Thank you! Very useful thread for getting this project planned out. Not sure what happened with the OEM radiators, but they are over $300 now!
 
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