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Jeep Wrangler TJ Shock Bolt Hardware Bolt Sizes

Discussion in 'TJ Frequently Asked Questions' started by Chris, Apr 15, 2018.

  1. Chris

    Chris Administrator
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    Just thought I would compile this list of hardware needed when replacing your front and rear shocks on your Jeep Wrangler TJ. This applies to all years, 1997-2006, as well as all engines. You can reuse your stock hardware if you choose, but I always like replacing weathered and rusted bolts with new ones.

    Be sure to use Grade 10.9 hardware and anti-seize on all the new bolts!



    Front

    Bolt Type: Flange Bolt
    Bolt Size: M8x1.25x30
    Bolt Position: Front Lower
    OE Part Number: 6502 555
    Quantity: 4

    Nut Type: Lock Nut
    Nut Size: M8x1.25
    Nut Position: Front Lower
    OE Part Number: 6101 695
    Quantity: 4

    Rear
    Bolt Type: Flange Bolt
    Bolt Size: M12x1.75x65
    Bolt Position: Rear Lower (these bolts have a long shoulder)
    OE Part Number: 6502 473
    Quantity: 2

    Nut Type: Lock Nut
    Nut Size: M12x1.75
    Nut Position: Rear Lower
    OE Part Number: 6502 835
    Quantity: 2

    Bolt Type: Flange Bolt
    Bolt Size: M8x1.25x30
    Bolt Position: Rear Upper
    OE Part Number: 3420 2467
    Quantity: 4
     
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  2. JMT

    JMT The Jeep Guy
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    Ha! I just bought some replacements for my upcoming install of Rancho 5000x which are scheduled to be delivered tomorrow. I didn’t look at these specs. Hope mine are right. This will help immensely. Thanks @Chris
     
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  3. Chris

    Chris Administrator
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    I ended up buying new hardware for my Ranch shocks (which get here Tuesday), so I figured this info could help someone other than just me!
     
  4. djy5005

    djy5005 New Member

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    PSA for others - As Jerry has pointed out in other threads I've read (and what is especially important to the rear upper bolts, IMO) - If you use anti-seize, you should back off the torque applied to the bolts by about 20% (i.e. if the FSM calls for a torque of 30 ft-lb, you should really use about 24 ft-lb because of the added lubrication to the bolts). Otherwise, you'll end up over-torquing them, adding the possibility of them breaking.

    Same applies to all "lubricated" bolts with oils, anti-seize, etc (such as the diff cover, manifold, etc). Sucks when you need to drill out a bolt otherwise.
     
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