Jeep Wrangler TJ Shock Bolt Hardware Bolt Sizes

[Chris]

Just thought I would compile this list of hardware needed when replacing your front and rear shocks on your Jeep Wrangler TJ. This applies to all years, 1997-2006, as well as all engines. You can reuse your stock hardware if you choose, but I always like replacing weathered and rusted bolts with new ones.

Be sure to use Grade 10.9 hardware and anti-seize on all the new bolts![/SIZE]


Front
Bolt Type: Flange Bolt
Bolt Size: M8x1.25x30
Bolt Position: Front Lower
OE Part Number: 6502 555
Quantity: 4

Nut Type: Lock Nut
Nut Size: M8x1.25
Nut Position: Front Lower
OE Part Number: 6101 695
Quantity: 4


Rear
Bolt Type: Flange Bolt
Bolt Size: M12x1.75x65
Bolt Position: Rear Lower (these bolts have a long shoulder)
OE Part Number: 6502 473
Quantity: 2

Nut Type: Lock Nut
Nut Size: M12x1.75
Nut Position: Rear Lower
OE Part Number: 6502 835
Quantity: 2

Bolt Type: Flange Bolt
Bolt Size: M8x1.25x30
Bolt Position: Rear Upper
OE Part Number: 3420 2467
Quantity: 4

 

[JMT]

Ha! I just bought some replacements for my upcoming install of Rancho 5000x which are scheduled to be delivered tomorrow. I didn’t look at these specs. Hope mine are right. This will help immensely. Thanks @Chris

 

[Chris]

Ha! I just bought some replacements for my upcoming install of Rancho 5000x which are scheduled to be delivered tomorrow. I didn’t look at these specs. Hope mine are right. This will help immensely. Thanks @Chris

I ended up buying new hardware for my Ranch shocks (which get here Tuesday), so I figured this info could help someone other than just me!

 

[djy5005]

PSA for others - As Jerry has pointed out in other threads I've read (and what is especially important to the rear upper bolts, IMO) - If you use anti-seize, you should back off the torque applied to the bolts by about 20% (i.e. if the FSM calls for a torque of 30 ft-lb, you should really use about 24 ft-lb because of the added lubrication to the bolts). Otherwise, you'll end up over-torquing them, adding the possibility of them breaking.

Same applies to all "lubricated" bolts with oils, anti-seize, etc (such as the diff cover, manifold, etc). Sucks when you need to drill out a bolt otherwise.

 

[jazngab]

Any suggestions to where to order the hardware? Bolt Depot doesn’t carry the size for the lower rear bolt. And the stealership wants $6 per upper bolt and $5.50 for lower. Not to mention $2.50 a nut.

 

[Chris]

Any suggestions to where to order the hardware? Bolt Depot doesn’t carry the size for the lower rear bolt. And the stealership wants $6 per upper bolt and $5.50 for lower. Not to mention $2.50 a nut.

I got all my hardware at ACE Hardware. Most local ACE Hardware stores should have what you need.

If not, you'll find it for sure either here: https://www.mcmaster.com, or your local Fastenal.

 

[Ron Hall]

Chris thanks for posting this info. After a few Colorado jeep roads, I got a rattle in the back and traced to the lower shock bolts. Like some other parts on my jeep, these had been replaced with the wrong size when the shock extension bracket had been installed with the previous lift. I had kept the brackets (and the wrong bolts) armed with your info I found the grade 10.9 shouldered 12mm bolts in true vslue Ouray, co. They were 80s instead of 65 which made the shoulder a little long when you squeezed it. I bought enough 12m washers to make it work great in the bracket and over all. The forum is a great reference.

 

[AkBrian]

FYI, I found that on my 2002 TJ with the factory dana 44, , that SAE grade 8 1/2" shoulder bolts are actually a better fit in lower rear shock eyes and brackets than the stock 12mm. I have Rancho RS5000X ( RS55240 ) shocks in the rear, and 1/2" is actually the factory spec for those shock eyes. The particular bolts I used had the shoulder in exactly the right place when used with a heavy washer on the flange nut side, the thread was a little longer than ideal though. I picked them up at a local hardware store.

 

[RobertJ]

I bought a really nice metric set just for working on my TJ. So far it's come in really handy, and I'm sure will pay for itself over buying one here or there.

M6 M8 M10 M12 Metric Class 10.9 JIS Hex Cap Flange Frame Bolts & Nuts Zinc Assortment Kit - 375 Pieces!

At less than $100, it seems like a bargain to me.

 

[Web98]

Thank you for this info Chris. Extremely useful.

 

[chino1969]

Just thought I would compile this list of hardware needed when replacing your front and rear shocks on your Jeep Wrangler TJ. This applies to all years, 1997-2006, as well as all engines. You can reuse your stock hardware if you choose, but I always like replacing weathered and rusted bolts with new ones.

Be sure to use Grade 10.9 hardware and anti-seize on all the new bolts![/SIZE]


Front
Bolt Type: Flange Bolt
Bolt Size: M8x1.25x30
Bolt Position: Front Lower
OE Part Number: 6502 555
Quantity: 4

Nut Type: Lock Nut
Nut Size: M8x1.25
Nut Position: Front Lower
OE Part Number: 6101 695
Quantity: 4


Rear
Bolt Type: Flange Bolt
Bolt Size: M12x1.75x65
Bolt Position: Rear Lower (these bolts have a long shoulder)
OE Part Number: 6502 473
Quantity: 2

Nut Type: Lock Nut
Nut Size: M12x1.75
Nut Position: Rear Lower
OE Part Number: 6502 835
Quantity: 2

Bolt Type: Flange Bolt
Bolt Size: M8x1.25x30
Bolt Position: Rear Upper
OE Part Number: 3420 2467
Quantity: 4

Damn Chris, your timing could not be better. Thanks.

 

[chino1969]

Any thoughts how to remove the upper rear bolts without snapping them off? I've been soaking the exposed threads that poke through the upper nutserts as well as the shoulder of the bolt head. Just put a socket on them with an extension to bust them loose but stopped short of doing any damage. Would an impact gun lessen a potential snapped bolt head?

 

[Chris]

Any thoughts how to remove the upper rear bolts without snapping them off? I've been soaking the exposed threads that poke through the upper nutserts as well as the shoulder of the bolt head. Just put a socket on them with an extension to bust them loose but stopped short of doing any damage. Would an impact gun lessen a potential snapped bolt head?

An impact gun is probably more likely to snap them off. Soak them in Kroil or Liquid Wrench, nothing else. Let it sit for 24-48 hours like that. You can always apply heat if you need to, but that's the first place to start.

 

[chino1969]

An impact gun is probably more likely to snap them off. Soak them in Kroil or Liquid Wrench, nothing else. Let it sit for 24-48 hours like that. You can always apply heat if you need to, but that's the first place to start.

They have been soaking for several days. I didn't really put a whole lot of torque on them, just trying to get a feel for how tight they are. I changed the shocks in my Cherokee XJ several times over the years and only snapped the bolt head off on one. My intention is to replace the bolts with new ones along with Never Seize on the threads. This will be for a future Rancho shock upgrade. I like to think and plan way ahead; makes life a whole lot easier.

 

[Chris]

They have been soaking for several days. I didn't really put a whole lot of torque on them, just trying to get a feel for how tight they are. I changed the shocks in my Cherokee XJ several times over the years and only snapped the bolt head off on one. My intention is to replace the bolts with new ones along with Never Seize on the threads. This will be for a future Rancho shock upgrade. I like to think and plan way ahead; makes life a whole lot easier.

They shouldn’t be on there very tight, but obviously rust and corrosion can make that an entirely different story!

 

[chino1969]

They shouldn’t be on there very tight, but obviously rust and corrosion can make that an entirely different story!

I'll give it another try in a few days.

 

[AkBrian]

I alternated between liquid wrench and a drop of synthetic motor oil each day for a few weeks. The oil film remains where as the LW evaporates pretty fast. There is a small notch in the body that allows limited access to the threads of the bolts from the wheel wells. You just have to pry the fender liner up a little. You'll need a little pen light. I found that a little oiler can with a long tube worked pretty well. You may have to put a short section of tubing on the end of it. I used a 3/8" drive milwaukee cordless impact with an extension, set to the the lowest torque setting. I gave it a few impacts in each direction after applying LW/oil. I think the vibration helps the liquid to penetrate the threads over time. One day it just turned and they all came out fine. The shocks had been on for about 15 years. I did not want to deal with a broken bolt in that location, and just did my best to not become impatient. You can bet I anti-seized the heck out of the new bolts that went back in!

 

[chino1969]

I alternated between liquid wrench and a drop of synthetic motor oil each day for a few weeks. The oil film remains where as the LW evaporates pretty fast. There is a small notch in the body that allows limited access to the threads of the bolts from the wheel wells. You just have to pry the fender liner up a little. You'll need a little pen light. I found that a little oiler can with a long tube worked pretty well. You may have to put a short section of tubing on the end of it. I used a 3/8" drive milwaukee cordless impact with an extension, set to the the lowest torque setting. I gave it a few impacts in each direction after applying LW/oil. I think the vibration helps the liquid to penetrate the threads over time. One day it just turned and they all came out fine. The shocks had been on for about 15 years. I did not want to deal with a broken bolt in that location, and just did my best to not become impatient. You can bet I anti-seized the heck out of the new bolts that went back in!

Sometimes a rap on the head with a ball peen hammer works. I was thinking the same thing about the impact vibration theory you have.

 

[chino1969]

Managed to loosen three rear upper shock bolts, one is still giving me problems. Taking my time and using plenty of Kroil applied with a plastic pipette from above. The three that came out were replaced with grade 10.9 shouldered bolts and plenty of Never Seize. I chased the threads with. a tap to freshen them up. After the bolts were tight I went in from above and applied mil. spec. Cosmoline to the exposed threads and nutsert. I was able to loosen the only one remaining a little and went back several times tightening and loosening but will not over do it. More Kroil, wait a day or two and try again. There is probably rust in the threads holding it from coming out all the way. Patience goes a long way in not screwing things up.

 

[Mike9595]

Just thought I would compile this list of hardware needed when replacing your front and rear shocks on your Jeep Wrangler TJ. This applies to all years, 1997-2006, as well as all engines. You can reuse your stock hardware if you choose, but I always like replacing weathered and rusted bolts with new ones.

Be sure to use Grade 10.9 hardware and anti-seize on all the new bolts![/SIZE]


Front
Bolt Type: Flange Bolt
Bolt Size: M8x1.25x30
Bolt Position: Front Lower
OE Part Number: 6502 555
Quantity: 4

Nut Type: Lock Nut
Nut Size: M8x1.25
Nut Position: Front Lower
OE Part Number: 6101 695
Quantity: 4


Rear
Bolt Type: Flange Bolt
Bolt Size: M12x1.75x65
Bolt Position: Rear Lower (these bolts have a long shoulder)
OE Part Number: 6502 473
Quantity: 2

Nut Type: Lock Nut
Nut Size: M12x1.75
Nut Position: Rear Lower
OE Part Number: 6502 835
Quantity: 2

Bolt Type: Flange Bolt
Bolt Size: M8x1.25x30
Bolt Position: Rear Upper
OE Part Number: 3420 2467
Quantity: 4

Thanks for sharing. Just had to replace mine and this was a big help.