Jeep Wrangler TJ won't start? Read this!

I'm not hearing my fuel pump turn on when turning key. But when i put a jumper wire where the relay is it turns on. What could this mean? I'm having the crank but won't start problem


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I am having this issue right now, and my Jeep is stuck at Autozone at the moment. I turn the key and the engine is turning over, but I don't hear the fuel pump and the guy there said he didn't hear any fire. The fuel pump was replaced 3 months ago (not by me). It all started when I was diving last week, doing about 35 and the engine shutoff on me. No check engine light, or codes. I replace the CPS and took it to Autozone to take back a fuel pressure gauge I rented (that was an experience) then started it, about to take off and it died on me, this time there was a check engine light, fuel mix too rich and the Jeep will not start back up. So I got a new MAP and replaced it there, but no help. I also read that someone replaced the ASD relay, did that and nothing. Again, the engine is cranking, but not firing off. Any Ideas?
 
I am having this issue right now, and my Jeep is stuck at Autozone at the moment. I turn the key and the engine is turning over, but I don't hear the fuel pump and the guy there said he didn't hear any fire. The fuel pump was replaced 3 months ago (not by me). It all started when I was diving last week, doing about 35 and the engine shutoff on me. No check engine light, or codes. I replace the CPS and took it to Autozone to take back a fuel pressure gauge I rented (that was an experience) then started it, about to take off and it died on me, this time there was a check engine light, fuel mix too rich and the Jeep will not start back up. So I got a new MAP and replaced it there, but no help. I also read that someone replaced the ASD relay, did that and nothing. Again, the engine is cranking, but not firing off. Any Ideas?

I found out I was getting low compression. Started tearing into motor. Burnt valves. Bad seals. Working on rebuilding motor. Birth of my baby girl put a hold on that [emoji6]


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Starting issue, starter just clicks when key is energized. Replaced starter, no change. Battery is 9 months old & terminals are tight. Can run jumper wire to solenoid exciter terminal & Hotwire solenoid—same symptoms. Motor turns freely with wrench on crankshaft. Auto trans: I’m stumped!!
 
Starting issue, starter just clicks when key is energized. Replaced starter, no change. Battery is 9 months old & terminals are tight. Can run jumper wire to solenoid exciter terminal & Hotwire solenoid—same symptoms. Motor turns freely with wrench on crankshaft. Auto trans: I’m stumped!!

If you manually jump the starter over and get the same symptoms sounds like you could've possibly got a bad starter.
 
Starting issue, starter just clicks when key is energized. Replaced starter, no change. Battery is 9 months old & terminals are tight. Can run jumper wire to solenoid exciter terminal & Hotwire solenoid—same symptoms. Motor turns freely with wrench on crankshaft. Auto trans: I’m stumped!!
Have the battery tested. Even though its only 9 months old. Test it before you buy a starter. Its free and could be the culprit.
 
Did you read post #1 by @Chris in this thread?

When you say the stater clicks, is it one click or a rapid series of clicks?
Do you have access to a volt meter? If so see step #2 in original post.

Have you tried to jump it?
Your battery could have a low charge or even have failed even though it’s only 9 months old. It’s rare but I’ve had it happen.
 
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Yep, definitely check to be sure the battery is good, my last post was on the assumptions that was known.
 
I have a battery tester-reads ohm

s of resistance

You'll want a meter that can read volts, if yours does that then it's a pretty easy test. Basically you'll want to compare the voltage at the battery to the voltage you get at the starter. The first post of this thread goes into great detail on how to do that test.
 
I have a battery tester that reads ohms of resistance: reads 100% charge. Also tried jumping with another vehicle. Single click when I turn the key or excite solenoid directly. Current thoughts are 1. AutoZone starter is bad or, 2. #6 wire from battery to starter is bad, or 3. Bad ground (although I loosened & tightened the terminal on the block, 4. Some kind of relay in system I'm unaware of (I checked starter fuses)
I am going to switch starters with my other 03 Rubicon tomorrow. Thanks everyone for the added brainpower. I'll post findings as they develop.
 
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Sounds like you're on the right track. Most likely it's going to be power/ground, or it's a bad starter. I've been burned by aftermarket starters before.
 
Back under the hood. 12.65V on battery dropping to 11.8 with key in start position.
All tests good except #5 test in first thread; voltage at solenoid post is 12.65v but drops to zero with key in start position.
Guess it’s time to swap starters! Any thoughts welcome.
 
Update: I took a jumper cable & ran it from positive batt post to solenoid positive post. Actuated the key switch & engine came to Life! Guess my positive wire to starter is bad. Off to farm supply for some welding cable.
Thanks all!!
 
Update: I took a jumper cable & ran it from positive batt post to solenoid positive post. Actuated the key switch & engine came to Life! Guess my positive wire to starter is bad. Off to farm supply for some welding cable.
Thanks all!!

Yep, I've heard of it happening before. I'm glad you were able to get it solved. Thanks for the update as well.
 
IMG_8131.JPG

The bottom two crimps attach the fuse box & starter to battery terminal. Top lead feeds winch. This setup was done by PO. Corrosion under crimp was enough to drop voltage to starter solenoid to the point it would not even energize the starter.
IMG_8134.JPG

Terminals soldered & heat taped; hopefully, no more issues. My preferred winch install uses a combination sidepost/toppost battery which allows winch leads to attach to sideposts.
 
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View attachment 57452
The bottom two crimps attach the fuse box & starter to battery terminal. Top lead feeds winch. This setup was done by PO. Corrosion under crimp was enough to drop voltage to starter solenoid to the point it would not even energize the starter.
View attachment 57453
Terminals soldered & heat taped; hopefully, no more issues. My preferred winch install uses a combination sidepost/toppost battery which allows winch leads to attach to sideposts.

Looks much better, shouldn't have much problems there anymore.
 
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Update: I took a jumper cable & ran it from positive batt post to solenoid positive post. Actuated the key switch & engine came to Life! Guess my positive wire to starter is bad. Off to farm supply for some welding cable.
Thanks all!!
Glad you found it. And thanks for the update.
 
Having an issue with my 97 very similar to this thread but can't quite find the solution. Jeep started just fine a week or so ago (after sitting for at least 3 months) then I turned it off after 20 minutes. Wouldn't start back up right after. Only get a single click. New battery, good starter, new starter relay. With a drop voltage test I find the line from the ignition to the the solenoid is getting less than a volt. I assumed ignition switch or actuator pin, could anyone confirm that assumption? I tried doing an NSS bypass to make sure it wasn't that and it didn't start with that either.
 
Brand new to the forum. I had ball joints replaced in my 98 recently. Cranked it up to take it home, and noticed it took a bit to start. Got it home, wouldn't crank again. It would click, but not turn over. I checked voltage on the battery - it was good. Couldn't get back to it for a few weeks, but I put a brand new starter in. Charged the battery from a truck for a good half hour, then tried to crank. The starter is spinning, but the engine won't crank.

I will add that I felt a little bit of resistance when turning the key.

What's next? Ignition cylinder? Relay?
 
Brand new to the forum. I had ball joints replaced in my 98 recently. Cranked it up to take it home, and noticed it took a bit to start. Got it home, wouldn't crank again. It would click, but not turn over. I checked voltage on the battery - it was good. Couldn't get back to it for a few weeks, but I put a brand new starter in. Charged the battery from a truck for a good half hour, then tried to crank. The starter is spinning, but the engine won't crank.

I will add that I felt a little bit of resistance when turning the key.

What's next? Ignition cylinder? Relay?
If the starter is spinning but not engaging with the flywheel. It sounds like a starter solenoid issue.
 
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