Jezza's Turbo LJ

[SkylinesSuck]

Has anyone asked Russ about this? If I remember correctly, all 3 of you (Jezza, Skyline & RickyD) are running, or have run, a cam from him.

To be clear, this is my first nitrided cam, and first cam ordered from Russ, and I have no idea what's causing my metallic sheen in the oil.

The nitrided cams are eating lobes?

One reason i went with a milder cam and nitriding was in hopes of avoiding flat tappet woes

See above and I hope the same.

If this is an ongoing, repeating issue, have you checked for other causes, like stuck lifters and out-of-round lifter bores?

The previous dead cams were on previous motors and cams including the stock cam. Current build with parts from Russ is still running strong, but I have some kind of maybe valve train noise and a sheen in the oil. Unsure what the exact issue is.

I may be wrong, but I believe any warping occurs during the nitriding process, and the cams are straightened to a spec afterward. Since the cams shouldn't be reaching anything near that temp inside an engine, any warping issues should be present out of the box.

Agreed.

 

[Jezza]

Thanks. And those were drop in, right? I remember you said it quieted down the valve train some, right? Did you ever see any valve float? I shift around 5.5k rpm so that's a bit of a concern for me.

And please excuse my ignorance, but the lift listed on a cam card is seen at the valve with stock ratio rockers, right? Or is it at the cam lobe and math is required? Your springs are listed at 550 max lift IIRC. Also I have 1.65 ratio rockers.

View attachment 529546

I have metallic sheen in my oil and a nitrided cam as well fwiw.

They were drop in on my Russ ported Edelbrock with the LS valves. Not sure exactly what you were running. I rev to 5k and there is no indication of float there. I can't imagine 500 RPM more would result in float, but there are quite a few factors at play. I would think even 1k more RPM would probably only be equal to the boost pressure that attempts to hold my intake valves open. The cam card is specd for the stock 1.6:1. You can tell pretty easily by multiplying the lobe lift by 1.6 you get the gross valve lift. So in your case exhaust at 0.321x1.65=0.530 gross lift.

 

[Jezza]

You'd need a way to keep the lifters from rotating. IDK if there's room for a SBC style link-bar setup. I'm sure someone could come up with something, maybe even by cutting a window into the block, but I doubt it'd be worth it.

From what I remember they use a big block chrysler tie bar lifter and slot out the tie bar to set the spacing wider. I think 505 tried to do something with roller at one time. Not sure where it got left off. Maybe a project for the little red Jeep.

 

[SkylinesSuck]

Thanks man. I have an Eddy head from Russ as well still sitting in it's box. Planning to swap springs before I get around to installing it.

 

[Jezza]

I know it's not the LJ, but I made one for that too. The TJ didn't have one so I made a Jeep one.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

I know it's not the LJ, but I made one for that too. The TJ didn't have one so I made a Jeep one.

View attachment 531263

That’s cool.

 

[Jezza]

My oil cap broke again so I designed one to make out of aluminum. It's a throwback to the vintage ones in the Willys days.

 

[Jezza]

Billet oil cap prototype done and getting tested. So far no leaks and holding up well.

 

[SkylinesSuck]

.

 

[Jezza]

Well the turbo LJ survived Rubicon. No damage or issues to report. I took a shot at soup bowl, but didn't get up. Other than that it worked flawless. Tomorrow its on to Fordyce.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

The view overlooking the canyon is definitely a winning ROTM shot.

 

[BlueC]

The view overlooking the canyon is definitely a winning ROTM shot.

I thought the same thing.

 

[Jezza]

Fordyce in the books as well. Less hard than I was lead to believe. I did winch hill 1,2,4 and 5. 3 I did the middle line not the buggy line. The rest of the trail was rocky and dusty. Water was flowing at 300 and didn't go above the bottom of my sliders.

 

[PNW_LJ]

I'm working on a little side project. My multi-function switch failed again leaving the fog lights on. I had previously repaired the lever inside with some JB epoxy, but it wore another groove in it. I'm testing this replacement part to see if it will hold up long term.

View attachment 526703

Any updates on this?

 

[Jezza]

Any updates on this?

I wasn’t able to find the exact plastic I wanted to make it out of. The one I am currently running is Delrin and is holding up for now. Aluminum is out of the question as the part contacts multiple other conductive parts of the switch. Long answer is the project is stalled unless someone knows of a good high temp thermoplastic that is machineable and doesn't have too much glass fiber in it. It also can't be $300 a blank either for obvious reasons.

 

[Jezza]

I cleaned my K&N air filter tonight after running it for over a year. It had some trips on it. Windrock, Rubicon Trail, Fordyce, Sand Hollow, Hole in the Rock Trail and a couple of local wheeling runs. It was getting pretty caked up. I pulled it off and the turbo was clean and the engine was not ruined. A touch of oil residue near the back of the impeller but no sand or grit. I guess I got the only good one.

 

[ColoJeep]

I cleaned my K&N air filter tonight after running it for over a year. It had some trips on it. Windrock, Rubicon Trail, Fordyce, Sand Hollow, Hole in the Rock Trail and a couple of local wheeling runs. It was getting pretty caked up. I pulled it off and the turbo was clean and the engine was not ruined. A touch of oil residue near the back of the impeller but no sand or grit. I guess I got the only good one.

View attachment 561475

Don't let the cat out of the bag , but I've never experienced the K&N legends on anything . Including racing a 1/2 1600 in unbelievable dust conditions....

 

[MikeE024]

I cleaned my K&N air filter tonight after running it for over a year. It had some trips on it. Windrock, Rubicon Trail, Fordyce, Sand Hollow, Hole in the Rock Trail and a couple of local wheeling runs. It was getting pretty caked up. I pulled it off and the turbo was clean and the engine was not ruined. A touch of oil residue near the back of the impeller but no sand or grit. I guess I got the only good one.

View attachment 561475

I know you run a pre-filter sometimes, why not for the recent run?

And here I thought it was time to clean my filter when mine was 95% less dirty lol

 

[Jezza]

I know you run a pre-filter sometimes, why not for the recent run?

And here I thought it was time to clean my filter when mine was 95% less dirty lol

I had a pre-filter on the old setup with the GT30. When I upgraded to the GT35 I had to change to a shorter filter. I might see if I can get one for this filter size too. This one was pretty filthy.

 

[g.hayduke]

As more dirt is caked on it, less dust gets through. You might want to check after the first dusty ride post-cleaning.