It's no 440 Whiplash, but for a 4.0 thats pretty sweet - love the turbo spool.
Jezza's Turbo LJ
- Thread starter Jezza
- Start date
It's no 440 Whiplash, but for a 4.0 thats pretty sweet - love the turbo spool.
The water pump impeller seems like it knocked 5 degrees or so off the running temperature. It certainly made more difference than the hood louvers. That being said it still is getting warmer at idle than I would like with the AC on. I cut a overdrive pulley for the water pump to test. It's about as small as physically possible. I calculated it at 9% overdriven. It should help the fan and pump at idle.
As per this and the rest of your displayed work, amazing to see what a solid operator and the right equipment are capable of producing.
Well, whether it resolves the issue or not, thar’s pretty cool.
Update. So far the overdrive pulley seems to have made the largest difference, especially at idle. I did have to get a slightly shorter belt to fit properly. The stock belt worked, but the tensioner was almost maxed out. Driving in 100+ degree the temp would hold 208-214 with the AC on. If I let it idle with the AC it slowly moves to 216 and seems to level out there. I have a radiator manufacturer that produces the Viper radiators for us. They have a core that I think might work well for the TJ. They use Visteon cores and TIG welded end tanks. I might order one and test it out. It seems as though the TJ has very little reserve cooling from the factory. Granted my setup is a worst case scenario compared to other builds.
I'm obviously a lot closer to stock than you are, but for a very close location wise comparison - I'm running around at 210 cruising this past week, she'll hold about 216 at idle, but thats with the electric helper fan. If I keep the revs up closer to 3K with light load - shell stay closer to the normal 206-208 range.
Brianj5600
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your capability and willingness to experiment is fun to watch!
That seems to be similar to what I am experiencing. It's 210 on side roads at 40 mph or so and 214 on the tollway at 80 mph.
195 Gates superstat. When it's idling and at 216 or so the radiator outlet is close to 200. That leads me to believe the cooling system is flowing there is just not enough heat exchanging going on.
Thanks I'm having a good time experimenting as well.
Are you running stock size or higher capacity radiator?
Also, your overdrive pulley speeds up the fan and water pump. Any thoughts on which is more effective?
I don't know why I haven't been getting notifications for updates on this thread, but I just noticed it and missed a lot! Very interested in the water pump mods. A few quick things to start to get caught up:
1- Did you notice any difference from the 62mm TB?
B) Is OXCART an airplane reference?
III. You have a 3D scanner?!?!?!
Fourthly, request permission to crap on your thread with a quick vid of a larger cammed stroker because people haven't heard before
1- Did you notice any difference from the 62mm TB?
B) Is OXCART an airplane reference?
III. You have a 3D scanner?!?!?!
Fourthly, request permission to crap on your thread with a quick vid of a larger cammed stroker because people haven't heard before
It's a stock Mopar radiator. Brand new a few months back when I swapped the engine.
I would guess the increased fan speed is probably helping the most. After I installed the new pump impeller I measured temps at the inlet and outlet of the radiator and there wasn't much temperature drop. To me that indicates adequate coolant flow, but inadequate air flow or heat exchanging.
I don't know why I haven't been getting notifications for updates on this thread, but I just noticed it and missed a lot! Very interested in the water pump mods. A few quick things to start to get caught up:
1- Did you notice any difference from the 62mm TB?
B) Is OXCART an airplane reference?
III. You have a 3D scanner?!?!?!
Fourthly, request permission to crap on your thread with a quick vid of a larger cammed stroker because people haven't heard before
1- I couldn't really notice a difference with the throttle body. I think the boost just pushes through no matter the size. Well, to a point anyway.
B) See pic below. My keychain.
III. I have a FARO scanner arm and a Mitutoyo CMM that I use. Many of the parts I make however I use a calipers and 3d print them to test. The scanners and CMM are especially helpful when trying to make a part that mounts to an existing part. Like a transmission adapter plate.
Haha, I don't care if you top my cam video. Post away.
That's what I thought you were referencing. Just a fan or or were you involved with it somehow?
I've been trying to get pointed in the right direction for not just 3D printing but specifically scanning for a while. I have a couple of old delicate parts for the Olds I'd like to reproduce. Very simple, but not something you could just CAD and print I think. I'll PM you later about it. You are the first person I've run across that has first hand knowledge of a scanner. #excited
And that definitely is not an attempt to top you btw. I'm sure you would smoke me (until you build that kit for older TJs and I get that installed). Just trying to show our motors can sound kinda choppy'ish with enough cam.
I've been trying to get pointed in the right direction for not just 3D printing but specifically scanning for a while. I have a couple of old delicate parts for the Olds I'd like to reproduce. Very simple, but not something you could just CAD and print I think. I'll PM you later about it. You are the first person I've run across that has first hand knowledge of a scanner. #excited
And that definitely is not an attempt to top you btw. I'm sure you would smoke me (until you build that kit for older TJs and I get that installed
). Just trying to show our motors can sound kinda choppy'ish with enough cam.
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That's what I thought you were referencing. Just a fan or or were you involved with it somehow?
I've been trying to get pointed in the right direction for not just 3D printing but specifically scanning for a while. I have a couple of old delicate parts for the Olds I'd like to reproduce. Very simple, but not something you could just CAD and print I think. I'll PM you later about it. You are the first person I've run across that has first hand knowledge of a scanner. #excited
And that definitely is not an attempt to top you btw. I'm sure you would smoke me (until you build that kit for over TJs and I get that installed
damn man, thats some serious lope for an inline engine. - is it all top end power? I suppose if your gearing is low enough you could use it.
That's what I thought you were referencing. Just a fan or or were you involved with it somehow?
I've been trying to get pointed in the right direction for not just 3D printing but specifically scanning for a while. I have a couple of old delicate parts for the Olds I'd like to reproduce. Very simple, but not something you could just CAD and print I think. I'll PM you later about it. You are the first person I've run across that has first hand knowledge of a scanner. #excited
And that definitely is not an attempt to top you btw. I'm sure you would smoke me (until you build that kit for over TJs and I get that installed
I've seen this Jeep go. It's impressive!
That makes intuitive sense to me. Do you think a thicker custom radiator would help much?
I ask because eventually I want to replace my radiator and do some future proofing at the same time. Right now, my after market looking stock size radiator does fine with an NA stroker, but boost (waiting on your ‘97 compatible kit
) or V8 are considerations and I read a lot of cooling issue threads with both.
