JKosten 02 TJ Sahara Build

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2002 Jeep Wrangler Sahara "TJ"
Mileage: 123k
Powertrain: 4.0L NV3550 NP231 Dana 30 Dana 44 / Dynamax muffler.
Suspension: 33" Goodyear Wrangler tires, 3" Black Diamond (?) Coils / rear trackbar drop bracket - KYB Monomax shocks.
Exterior: front and rear tube bumpers (unknown brand), rock sliders, Warn 8470 front winch, LED head lights and fog lights, hardtop.
Interior: Kenwood Marine stereo with Polk speakers and Kicker 6.75 Sub.

 

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First project after finding this Jeep was getting some keys made and diagnosing the Skim. Turns out any copy worked (I was only given one key at purchase) because my "second" key was actually zip tied to the SKIM pickup ring. After a locksmith visit I had three new keys made and skim reprogrammed to only them.

 

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Then I try to always do a full service on any new to me vehicle. I don't like to trust "it was just serviced". I don't know the quality of products of labor that did the last service. I found the plugs worn to about .060" and fixed the valve cover leak, plus engine oil and oil/air filters swap. Engine coolant is fresh, but green, so I will get some G05 to replace that soon.

 

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The stock headlights were very unimpressive, so after I little research I chose the Amazon trucklite copies plus 4" 2 stage fog/driving lights. With the reduced amperage it should extended the multifunction switch contact life. The "high" beam on the fog light is wired to the normal high beams (at led connector), and the fog portion was wired to a factory plug so I did not cut any factory harnesses.

Then in doing a tire rotation I noticed the lead party on the wheels (which I want to replace with non-fake bead locks). I ordered 6 oz balance beads kits and then was blessed with one seized lug nut. Replaced that and after getting all the tires swapped to balance beads and setting the psi at 25, they feel normal (I am used to 37" tires on my truck).

 

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This upgrade will probably generate some feedback, but due to the condition of the rubber control bushings and how I plan to use this (mostly on road commuter, think big in town go cart) I replaced the rear bushings and track bar with poly bushings. I have front kit, but need (should) to do that on a lift at work so I can access the front axle bushing easily with a ball hoint press.

The shocks although stout looking, were completely discharged and the shafts have heat damage. I probably should have researched a little more, but I chose KYB Monomax and they are a little stiff, but feel amazing compared to the springy non-shocks I was driving it on.

 

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I then had to fix the crackling sound. Around 2009 the previous owner installed a JVC head unit and speakers. I hope whoever installed it had not installed any other radios since then. I found wire nuts, twisted/taped wires and poor connections throughout. I probably could have just fixed everything, but still 13 years old and slow BT connection. All the new stereo parts were about $400 on Amazon. The Kicker Amp was recycled from previous system, and mounted to a stainless plate under the driver seat.

The sound now is great, and the phone connects for hands-free calling and Sirius streaming (not paying for a 4th service)

 

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I am now currently replacing the 3.73 gears with 4.56. The back will also get a Detroit TrueTrac torsion LSD. (I read a bunch of different threads here before choosing, if I end up needing E-Lockers down the road, Jerry warned everyone)

I have already run into a couple bonus projects, and expect to find a few more.

First when pulling the front diff cover I found two of the bolts glued back on with silicon, and a nice chocolate oil mixture. I will check the breather tube placement once done. I managed to get both extracted without any housing damage.

After inspecting all the carrier components, significant wear is present, but no failure. The spider gears have wear and it appears that oil was probably run longer that it should have been. With the amount of work to get into the diff, and gear setup, I ordered a Sparten torsion front LSD so I don't have gp wonder about the spider gears failing.

I sent the driveline over to a local driveline shop (been there for over 40 years) and they put in all new Spicer u-joints and replaced a damage double cardian piece, then balanced both shafts to .005". I taped the contact surfaces and painted them with a flat paint.

Next step will be replacing the axle u-joints, and starting the front diff setup. Then to the back axle, brakes, front bushings and coolant flush.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Well, better that the diff bolts were broken rather than stripped. Looks like you sucessfully removed them.

 

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Front gears are setup and rear carrier is ready to go in.

Note: for best results establish an indirect cooking zone of 225 degrees for best results on your gear set. -they slipped right on. (only easy access oven at work)

The $100 Dana bearing puller is worth every penny.

 

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Differential work is complete, along with all u-joints. Changed out transmission and transfer case fluid while on the lift.

I starting to clean and paint the undercarriage to prevent the light surface rust from growing.