JKS vs Currie track bar for Dana 44 front

97' 4 Popper

Opened a Can of Worms
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2020
Messages
687
Location
CNY
JKS OGS 126 versus the Rockjock CE-9120TJS, how is the fitment for 3 inches lift on a Dana 44 front end with stock diff cover? The Currie is obviously the better bar but do you think I could get away with the JKS considering the price difference?

Currie says it is intended for 2 inches minimum, issues could occur with a 44 front if no lift.

JKS says that under 2.5 inches on a 44 front could lead to issues. According to Quadratec "Vehicles with Dana 44 front axle and 2.5" of lift or less may require bump stop adjustment to prevent interference with differential cover". This indicates to me that the Currie bar has more room to work with.
 
Look at how the bar is attached to the frame side joint. The currie gives better clearance as it is welded offset. You can bend the bar in a press if you need a little clearance. Or move the axle back.the Dana 44 is a tight fit. Currie all the way
 
What timing... I just pulled the trigger on the Rock Jock this weekend after reading several threads here. My JKS had some battle scars from the front diff and bolt heads. I can let you know later this week if it arrives on the clearance. Im running the OME 2.5in lift.

On a side note, but related, is it me or is the JKS Johnny joint an asshole when rebuilding it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 97' 4 Popper
What timing... I just pulled the trigger on the Rock Jock this weekend after reading several threads here. My JKS had some battle scars from the front diff and bolt heads. I can let you know later this week if it arrives on the clearance. Im running the OME 2.5in lift.

On a side note, but related, is it me or is the JKS Johnny joint an asshole when rebuilding it.

I'm running the same. You may need to trim the track bar gusset to keep the Dana 44 bolt heads off it
 
I was thinking perhaps I could order the JKS and test the fitment with zipties before drilling (9/16). If I install the part and I run into clearance issues later, I could just get a Currie bar and redrill out to the 5/8ths size that Currie uses. But once I go Currie there's no going back unless I could somehow source a new track bar mount and have it fabbed up.

Also does anyone know what wrench size is needed for the jam nut on the Currie. For the JKS it is 1 7/16, so I would need a crowfoot for that. Wondering what size crowfoot wrench needed for the Currie




On a unrelated note, is it worth getting longer sway bar links for the rear suspension at 2 inches lift, and should I just get cheap zone 2-3 or the steinjager 2 inch adjustable. I've never heard of anyone using that particular link and it is a bit pricey at 133. There's no info on it's adjustable range.
 
I was thinking perhaps I could order the JKS and test the fitment with zipties before drilling (9/16). If I install the part and I run into clearance issues later, I could just get a Currie bar and redrill out to the 5/8ths size that Currie uses. But once I go Currie there's no going back unless I could somehow source a new track bar mount and have it fabbed up.

Also does anyone know what wrench size is needed for the jam nut on the Currie. For the JKS it is 1 7/16, so I would need a crowfoot for that. Wondering what size crowfoot wrench needed for the Currie




On a unrelated note, is it worth getting longer sway bar links for the rear suspension at 2 inches lift, and should I just get cheap zone 2-3 or the steinjager 2 inch adjustable. I've never heard of anyone using that particular link and it is a bit pricey at 133. There's no info on it's adjustable range.
get a big cresent wrench.or big set of wrenches.

Yes on the rear links.stock will pull tight and bind if the shocks have enough travel like mine
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 97' 4 Popper
I have the Currie on 5.5" lift. No complaints. I replaced the axle-side track bar mount with one from Barnes 4WD. At the time it was about $20 and was thicker than OEM. It was not hard to replace as things go. So, you could go back from Currie if you wanted (you won't). It would just cost time and money.
 
Having run both and compared them side by side, if you can do it - the Currie. However the JKS is the closest second I could find. The shape difference is subtle, but meaningful (and hard to capture in a picture). Top is Currie.

GHb1Cwb7p5CjRNG810olZrK=w737-h1311-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
I have the Currie on 5.5" lift. No complaints. I replaced the axle-side track bar mount with one from Barnes 4WD. At the time it was about $20 and was thicker than OEM. It was not hard to replace as things go. So, you could go back from Currie if you wanted (you won't). It would just cost time and money.

I was referring to the frame side, replacing the axle side track bar mount would require welding, or are you talking about a bolt on bracket? Either way I should be fine to reuse the stock set up as far as the axle side goes regardless of which bar I chose. I won't be reusing the stock bolt though, I will be using a 12.9 m10-1.5-75 socket cap head with the stock flag nut.

A 12" crescent won't do it.
I had to use my 18", and that's a pain.

I'm definitely going to need a crowfoot attached to a breaker bar to get it tight enough. I was just hoping some knew the size but I guess I'll find out.
I have a JKS, not sure if it's a 126 or 125.
I'm at about 3.5" of lift with the stock cover on a dana 44.
No issues.

The 125 is for 4-6 inches lift.

Not needed for the rear with a 2" lift and the flimsy rear sway bar. DON'T buy anything Steinjager.

My ocd wont allow it, but there aren't many options but zone or stein for that lift point. Perhaps its a waste of money/unnecessary then?
 
I was referring to the frame side, replacing the axle side track bar mount would require welding, or are you talking about a bolt on bracket? Either way I should be fine to reuse the stock set up as far as the axle side goes regardless of which bar I chose. I won't be reusing the stock bolt though, I will be using a 12.9 m10-1.5-75 socket cap head with the stock flag nut.



I'm definitely going to need a crowfoot attached to a breaker bar to get it tight enough. I was just hoping some knew the size but I guess I'll find out.


The 125 is for 4-6 inches lift.



My ocd wont allow it, but there aren't many options but zone or stein for that lift point. Perhaps its a waste of money/unnecessary then?

Just stay away from Steinjager.
 
I was referring to the frame side, replacing the axle side track bar mount would require welding, or are you talking about a bolt on bracket? Either way I should be fine to reuse the stock set up as far as the axle side goes regardless of which bar I chose. I won't be reusing the stock bolt though, I will be using a 12.9 m10-1.5-75 socket cap head with the stock flag nut.



I'm definitely going to need a crowfoot attached to a breaker bar to get it tight enough. I was just hoping some knew the size but I guess I'll find out.


The 125 is for 4-6 inches lift.



My ocd wont allow it, but there aren't many options but zone or stein for that lift point. Perhaps its a waste of money/unnecessary then?

I could pull my rear links down til they were pulled tight when flexing using ome 2" springs and rancho shocks. I cut and welded them 2" longer
 
  • Like
Reactions: 97' 4 Popper