Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

John’s Consistently Inconsistent LJ Build

jrfuda

TJ Enthusiast
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Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2024
Messages
119
Location
Fayetteville, NC
Build started in October – I will make several posts to get caught up.

We purchased a 2005 Stone White LJ with 73,000 miles in October. This is our first Jeep and the second one we looked at. What we bought it for and what I’m upgrading it to do have diverged quite a bit. We originally wanted something to drive on the beach (mostly Fort Fisher in NC, surf fishing), use as a convertible around town on nice days, and use for light off road use/hunting/fishing (my 2WD 2016 F150 Sport has clearance issues on the land we hunt on, so I have to be careful).

My initial plan was to just add hitch receivers to the front and back to hold surf fishing gear. This changed to a heavier rear hitch receiver as we realized we could also tow our 2200 GVWR boat once we settled on an LJ.

After realizing the braking on the LJ and the TJ we previously test drove were not so great with the 33s on our LJ and 35s on the TJ, a big brake kit was added to the list.

After comparing the regeared TJ on 35s we test drove (can’t remember what it was regeared to) to the 3.73 LJ, I added a regear to the list. Whatever the TJ was geared to was significantly better than our LJ.

I also wanted to upgrade the sound system.

So that was it – hitch receivers, gears, and sound system.

But that was not it. The build expanded quickly from there.

Here’s what we started with (Base plus PO upgrades)
- 4” RC Lift … NO BUMPSTOPS!
- BFG KO2s at 285/70R17 on 17" Wheels from a JL (hated the wheels at first, but they're growing on me)
- Bestop Trektop Slantback Soft Top
- Seat Covers
- No-name LED headlights
- No-name LED offroad lights (wired to fog on steering column)
- Tube doors with rather nice PO-made door cart
- Dome light override switch for when doors are off
- Bluetooth receiver
- Stubby AM/FM antenna
- OE Hard Top is missing (was on build sheet and is wired for it)

Here are some photos when we got it home:

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I started researching brakes before we bought the LJ after experiencing the poor braking on the TJ we test drove. I already had settled on a BMB big brake kit. Once we got the LJ and exchanged a couple of emails an a phone call with Blaine, I ordered the 16” kit. Install was intimidating at first, as it had been over 20 years since I’d even touched brakes on a vehicle, but it went very well thanks to the instructions, completeness of the kit and a couple of videos. While I was doing the brakes, I swapped out the U and ball joints as well.
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Now that I could brake safely, I thought I would “finish” the jeep by putting the front and rear receiver hitches on and updating the audio system. I forgot to take photos of the receiver hitch install, but it was rather uneventful (not really though, more on that later). I did some surface rust remediation and painting on the frame with Eastwood products while I did the install.
I did a slew of interior mods including the audio system after this. I need to add pictures of them all.
- Front Grab Handles (Bolt-on)
- 1.5” front seat risers
- Pioneer AVH-W4500NEX Double-DIN receiver and new Dash Kit
- Dash Pods and 5.25” Speakers
- Quadratec Super Tweeters
- Backup Camera
- RC Multiple Light Controller MLC-6

Here's a shot of the head unit, the MLC6, and the RAM mount I use for my phone (run Torque App on my phone and use Android Auto on head unit for everything else). I use these RAM mounts eveywhere.. cars, boat, RV. They are great.
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Here Is one of the super tweeters. These made a big difference. I actually had to tone down the high end on the EQ a little.

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The first weekend we had the LJ, we took it for a ride around town topless and tried out the tube doors. We had lunch and picked up a couple of things and realized that picking up stuff was an issue when there was no place safe to store it. This led me to start searching for security solutions. After some research and a few emails, I decided on the Diabolical Ridgeback Jeep Security Enclosure - LJ Basic, which allows the rear seat to stay in place. I had to do some minor grinding to get everything to fit and Alan and Brandon at Diabolical were great at answering my questions.

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The first weekend we had the LJ, we took it for a ride around town topless and tried out the tube doors. We had lunch and picked up a couple of things and realized that picking up stuff was an issue when there was no place safe to store it. This led me to start searching for security solutions. After some research and a few emails, I decided on the Diabolical Ridgeback Jeep Security Enclosure - LJ Basic, which allows the rear seat to stay in place. I had to do some minor grinding to get everything to fit and Alan and Brandon at Diabolical were great at answering my questions.

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That's a cool product. The TJ one looks nice too. Man you can do some cool stuff for storage when you don't have a dog.

Did you add a hitch to the front stock bumper?
 
Somewhere along the way I changed the Blower motor resistor since I only had ludicrous speed available on the HVAC. I also installed a Tuffy glove box so I’d have a safe place to put my removeable faceplate receiver.

Remember how I stated earlier that the front and rear receiver hitch installs were uneventful, but not really. Well, it turned out that the front receiver added enough width to the frame to interfere with the sway bar links. I think these links came with the RC lift kit, as they connected with a yoke to the sway bar instead of directly though the hole in the sway bar. This added enough width to rub badly against the receiver which would not be an issue on a stock TJ/LJ. I started looking for a solution and had already become interested in the SwayLOC. I emailed ORO with some measurements and Steve went out and measured the clearance on his TJ and sent me back some numbers – looks like it would work as is and even better if I shortened the receiver mounting bolts a bit. The install went pretty well (I had to clearance the stock bumper a little) and looks great.

Regarding the bucket in the pictures. I was simultaneously performing a cooling system replacement after finding a leak. That is mostly documented here: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/coolant-leak.81725/ with another thread about constant tension clamps here: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-properly-size-constant-tension-clamps.82242/

Speaking of the front receiver, I know I lose approach angle with it versus a bumper with an integrated hitch, however, the receiver appears to provide some protection to the steering box and does not stick down much more than a skid would, though it is full width versus a skid that would only cover the steering area. I still don’t see myself needing that much clearance in the front, but you never know. I’ve been watching Uwharrie videos and getting the bug.

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Last post shows a picture of the hitch, added to the frame below the stock bumper.

Yep I see that now didn't realize you were working on a post with it lol. Didn't realize they made that type that worked up front.

The swayloc is cool I bet you'll be happy with it. Dealing with removable sway bar links is horrible IMO. Jeep looks good.
 
While I was working on everything else I saw a post on FB marketplace for a set of complete half doors for $250. They were a little banged up, had no keys, but otherwise worked perfectly. The seller is a mod for the local FB Jeep group as well. I plan on rekeying them (already ordered the parts) following the tutorial posted here: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-re-key-half-door-lock-cylinders.26338/

I disassembled them, stripped the, cleaned them, beat out a couple of dents, applied a little bondo and glaze, and primed. I did the same with the interior panels (minus the bondo) and ordered custom SEM paint in Khaki so they would match. I had my MC highline fenders on hand and planned on finishing the doors when I finished the fenders.

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I ordered my MC Fenders in raw steel as I wanted to match them to my body color. My plan was to clean them, etch with phosphoric acid, prime, paint with Duplicolor stone white, and topcoat with Eastwood 2K Gloss Clear. I painted the primed half doors at the same time.

This took several days but in hindsight I should have taken the doors and fenders to a body shop. The 2K clear does not seem to adhere to the Duplicolor as well as it should have, when I installed the fender, the 2K clear flaked off in a few spots. The Duplicolor is holding well to the primer and the primer to the metal and/or old paint which is where I thought my failure would be.

The flares (not pictured) are powder coated.

The red overspray on my canvas tarps are from a previous project.

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Somewhere among the other steps, I installed the rear MC fenders and did a "dry fit" of my front bumper, winch, and bull bar. They're torqued down but the winch is not electrically connected, and I will probably pull stuff on and off as I get lights installed on the front.

I spent the next several mornings removing the front fenders, removing rust from the frame, and performing a body lift and motor mount lift. The rust was just surface rust for the most part. I removed all the suspension components and skids. I used a grinder with a wire brush, a drill with a wire brush, a hand-held wire brush and a needle scaler to get the rust off.

I then installed a Savvy body lift, JKS motor mount lift, and MORE steering riser.

I blew out as much as I could from inside the frame and coated it with Eastwood Internal Frame Coating. That was not fun. For those wondering, even when cured for several weeks, the internal frame coating is still flexible. I had a sizeable puddle on my garage floor and it still has the consistency of roof tar, maybe a little firmer and much less sticky though.

After that cured for a day or two, I did the whole frame with Eastwood rust encapsulator followed by Eastwood 2K chassis black.

While I had the fenders out of the way, I went ahead and installed a new OPDA. I could not re-use the OEM sensor because it broke when I tried to remove it, so I really needed to be able to dial in or relearn the cam/crank position. I started this thread about scan tools and ended up buying an Autel MaxiCheck MX808S-TS to relearn the cam/crank position.

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These photos show me touching up paint on some places on the body. The masking and plastic tarps are still in place from painting the frame. I had removed the spare tire carrier from the rear in anticipation of installing a morryde tailgate reinforcement kit and decided that a rusty spot under the hinge and several other dings needed painting. The areas by the grill where the front fenders were removed needed to be painted as well. I cleaned all the bolts and gave them a couple of coats as well. Everything was Eastwood 2K clear gloss over Duplicolor stone white. You can get better view of the body paint as well.

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I then proceeded to replace all the suspension components except for the springs, which despite being part of the RC lift kit, are still at the appropriate ride height. I know some of my choices below are not popular, but I am happy with them so far. Nearly everything was purchase during black Friday / Christmas sales.

- JKS HD Adjustable Front Track Bar
- Currectlync Steering System
- Rancho Steering Stabilizer Shock (RS5000)
- Metalcloak Duroflex Double Adjustable Aluminum Control Arms
- Rancho RS55255 and RS55256 Shocks
- JKS Adjustable Rear Track Bar
- JKS Rear Lower Shock Extension
- New bump stop cups, bump stops, and Jounces

This thread was instrumental in helping me get my rear axle centered and the advice here helped me figure out what to do about my rear bump stops. When I purchased the LJ there were no bump stops anywhere, not even upper extensions on the rear. The ride was rough over road bumps. When I removed the old shocks, the rear shocks had small dents in the cylinders.

Double adjustable control arms made getting everything dialed-in much easier than single adjustable would have been, especially since I'll have to do it again for my tummy tuck.

For the front suspension, I had to grind some relief in the front receiver on the passenger side for the tie rod and on the driver side for the sway bar link bracket to allow for full uptravel. I gained about two inches of uptravel by changing the suspension components - the stock components never allowed enough uptravel for the receiver to be in the way. I noticed the stock upper control arms were binding badly - they pretty much wanted to stay at the midpoint of travel and were acting like springs if you raised or lowered the suspension. I think I gained about an inch of down travel as well as the coil springs were much easier to replace than they were to remove (I still had to compress them, though).

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These photos show me touching up paint on some places on the body. The masking and plastic tarps are still in place from painting the frame. I had removed the spare tire carrier from the rear in anticipation of installing a morryde tailgate reinforcement kit and decided that a rusty spot under the hinge and several other dings needed painting. The areas by the grill where the front fenders were removed needed to be painted as well. I cleaned all the bolts and gave them a couple of coats as well. Everything was Eastwood 2K clear gloss over Duplicolor stone white. You can get better view of the body paint as well.

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How did the the Eastwood paint come out ?
I used duplicator as well (didn't March my paint much) and spray max 2k clear from a can as well
It stuck pretty good on the front front part of the grill! My fenders.....not so much cause i was using some old worn out 600 grit,That clearcoat looked great for a few weeks but chipped off entirely on my pass. Side fender😶(all cause i couldn't wait another day for some sandpaper) and my driver Is slowly peeling
 
Now we are caught up to today. I spent the last two days installing a new stereo system in my college kid’s Nissan Frontier. My Savvy UA arrives today. I received the Savvy cable shifter and engine/trans skid a few weeks ago. I have my JB conversion SSSYE ready to install as well and that will probably be what I start this weekend.

Here’s what I’ve done so far:

- Blower motor resistor replacement
- Diabolical Ridgeback Jeep Security Enclosure
- Front Grab Handles (Bolt-on)
- 1.5” front seat risers
- BMB VANCO Super 16" Big Brake Kit with Master Cylinder
- Front Axle Ball Joints and U-Joints
- Longer brake lines (old ones would’ve broke at full droop)
- Pioneer AVH-W4500NEX Double-DIN receiver and new Dash Kit
- Dash Pods and 5.25” Speakers
- Quadratec Super Tweeters
- Backup Camera
- DV8 Full-size antenna
- RC Multiple Light Controller MLC-6
- Tuffy Security Glove Box
- Antenna Mount Bracket (over Pass Tailight for flag)
- Draw-Tite Rear Trailer Hitch Receiver (for light towing & surf fishing gear)
- Curt Front Mount Trailer Hitch Receiver (for surf fishing gear)
- Trailer wiring
- ORO SwayLOC (manual, but have auto upgrade)
- Repaint Stock bumpers, removed milk jugs, added end caps, cut for SwayLOC
- Complete cooling system replacement
- Badland Apex 12K Winch with Synthetic Rope
- Warn power interrupt for winch
- Garvin G2 Series Bumper Guard
- Savvy 1.25” Body Lift
- JKS 1” MML
- Replaced OEM OPDA with Crown OPDA
- M.O.R.E. Steering Riser Bracket
- Metalcloak Overlines (8”)
- JKS HD Adjustable Front Track Bar
- Currectlync Steering System
- Rancho Steering Stabilizer Shock (RS5000)
- Metalcloak Duroflex Double Adjustable Aluminum Control Arms
- Rancho RS55255 and RS55256 Shocks
- JKS Adjustable Rear Track Bar
- JKS Rear Lower Shock Extension
- New bump stop cups, bump stops, and Jounces

Here is a picture of where we are today:
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Here are things I have on order or waiting in the garage to be installed:

- Savvy 231 Transfer Case Cable Shifter Kit
- Savvy Under Armor TC Skid
- Savvy Under Armor Engine/Trans Skid
- JB Conversions P231J HD Super Short SYE w/1310 CV Yoke
- HealTech SpeedoHealer
- JKS Rear Track Bar Relocation Bracket
- MetalCloak Rocker Rail
- MOR/ryde Tailgate Reinforcement Kit
- LED brake, marker, turn lights & flasher
- ORO York Mini OBA
- Refurbing banged up used half doors (Incl DIY rekey)
- Bull Dawg Upper half doors
- McGard Door Locks
- DIY Stock Fuel Tank Skid Tuck
- Tuffy Hood Lock
- 41.22 Kill Switch
- KC 6” Apollo Pro Halogen Spotlights and Fog Lights
- Revolution Gear Dana 44 4140 Chromoly Discovery Series Rear Axle Kit
- Revolution Gear Dana 30 4340 Chromoly Discovery Series Front Axle Kit
- Revolution Gear Dana 44 Thick* Rear 5.13 Ratio Koyo Bearing Gear Package
- ARB Air Locker RD100 For Dana 30 Front
- ARB Air Locker RD117* For Dana 44 Rear
*Chris at Revolution Gear recommended the thick gear and RD117 combo over the regular gear and RD116

These are things I want to do but do not have yet:

- Tom Wood’s DC Rear Drive Shaft (After SYE and Tummy Tuck)
- 16x8 8-hole wheels or wheels from an 03-06 Rubicon (looking for used)
- 35 x 12.5 R16 or 315 / 75 R 16 KO2s or DuraTracs
- Heated Seats
 
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How did the the Eastwood paint come out ?
I used duplicator as well (didn't March my paint much) and spray max 2k clear from a can as well
It stuck pretty good on the front front part of the grill! My fenders.....not so much cause i was using some old worn out 600 grit,That clearcoat looked great for a few weeks but chipped off entirely on my pass. Side fender😶(all cause i couldn't wait another day for some sandpaper) and my driver Is slowly peeling

It looks great, but it is already flaking in spots where it has bumped against things. It is significantly softer than what I would expect from a pro 2-component paint. My doors are still wrapped up in paper so they wont get dirty, but the clear on the fenders flaked off in a few spots when I banged them while installing them.

What's funny is I expected the paint would fail because of my prep. I thought the primer would peel from the metal or paint from the primer, but both primer and paint are fine, it is just the 2K clear that is misbehaving. It looks amazing when it first dries - supper glossy and smooth. It self-levels really well too. It just does not want to stick to the Duplicolor despite being advertised as being able to topcoat lacquer. I wonder if I did not sand the paint well enough since you had success with the parts you think you prepped better. I wet sanded with 400 up until the last coat of paint, which I then instead used ultrafine non-woven abrasive... maybe it was too fine so the topcoat did not get enough bite?

Maybe I'll be painting again in a few months or perhaps I'll just have a prop paint the whole thing when I'm done (or pausing) messing with it.
 
Nice build! Seems you are “all in” now. I also get much of my inspiration from this site so great to see more build threads with good workmanship and ideas.
 
Savvy UA arrived tonight. I will probably start removing the TC in the morning for my SSSYE install.

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Started on the SSSYE install. Was going to install it in place but changed my mind when I got annoyed with the the lock ring on the rear shaft.
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Here is a close up of the ring. I tried removing it for about an hour with the wrong tools, gave up, and ordered the tool. I'll work on something else while I wait. Here's a photo of the ring.
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Something else ended up being my morryde tailgate reinforcement kit. Had a bolt break in the tub.
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Drilled it out and rechased the threads.
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Installed the upper hinge brace and have everything on with the tailgate nicely centered.

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Since I have 5x5 JL wheels I'm stuck with using some sort of spacer with the stock spare carrier. The existing spacer pushes the spare out 2.5 inches and the morryde offset brackets push it out about 1.5 inche. I will probably skip the offset brackets and have a non centered spare until I find the right combo to get the spare centered and tight to the tailgate. I'd also like to have it lower too... when my welding improves I'd like to mod my bumper with a little relief for the spare so I can lower it a bit. Here is a photo with the offset brackets down (too low to clear bumper) and spacer/5x5 adapter removed.
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator