Just how strong are the stock bumpers? Anyone weld in a hitch receiver?

MikekiM

MikekiM

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I’ve modified both front & rear bumpers on my TJ and have no real reason to replace them at the moment.

I’d like to weld in a Class II receiver into the front bumper only for the purpose of using a receiver mounted cargo basket. I won’t carry more than a medium cooler and camp gear. It won’t be a recovery point and I won’t tow with it.

I had a bend in both front and rear and all attempts to straighten them failed so I know the stock bumpers are reasonably strong, but not sure if they are strong enough to handle the cargo basket.

Thoughts?
 
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Pretty sure you'll run into other issues, like the rear crossmember, putting a receiver into the bumper.
 
That rear tube is pretty darn thin, like less than 1/8" thin and lite. I don't think I would try that. I just ordered a Smittybilt from Amazon $231. Simple 3/16 cold rolled steel, class 3 hitch and 2 shackle points. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CF5EHG/?tag=wranglerorg-20. Yeah it's Smittybilt, but for the money and simplicity it has to be better than trying to mess with the stock rear.
 
I'd be more inclined to plate the inside of the bumper with something like 3" angle and then bolt thru the top and bottom. I think the bumper material is too thin to weld and get good strenght as the basket likely will flex and bounce with the bumper a bit.
 
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Artsifrtsi said:
Pretty sure you'll run into other issues, like the rear crossmember, putting a receiver into the bumper.
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Just the front. Rear would be a hassle with the tailgate

LONGJP2 said:
if you're attaching it strictly to the bumper, it will probably twist.
Why not go through the bumper to the crossmember (tube)?
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That could work. I could weld to the front bumper and weld a nut to the bottom of the cross member tube so the front bumper could still be removable. You really think that short center section of the bumper between mounting points would twist with just fifty to sixty pounds on it?

chudlet said:
That rear tube is pretty darn thin, like less than 1/8" thin and lite. I don't think I would try that. I just ordered a Smittybilt from Amazon $231. Simple 3/16 cold rolled steel, class 3 hitch and 2 shackle points. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CF5EHG/?tag=wranglerorg-20. Yeah it's Smittybilt, but for the money and simplicity it has to be better than trying to mess with the stock rear.
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Actually have that in my cart for a while. Front and rear. Just didn't see a reason to change the bumpers. It's the front that I want to add the receiver to. I have flush mounted LEDs in the rear bumper. I'd have to rework those, and the cargo basket in the rear would interfere with the rear gate. Thought about a tailgate mounted cargo basket but I have a RR Spartacus HD Tailgate Hinge and none of the gate mounted cargo baskets play nice.
 
MikekiM said:
Just the front. Rear would be a hassle with the tailgate


That could work. I could weld to the front bumper and weld a nut to the bottom of the cross member tube so the front bumper could still be removable. You really think that short center section of the bumper between mounting points would twist with just fifty to sixty pounds on it?


Actually have that in my cart for a while. Front and rear. Just didn't see a reason to change the bumpers. It's the front that I want to add the receiver to. I have flush mounted LEDs in the rear bumper. I'd have to rework those, and the cargo basket in the rear would interfere with the rear gate. Thought about a tailgate mounted cargo basket but I have a RR Spartacus HD Tailgate Hinge and none of the gate mounted cargo baskets play nice.
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How about a receiver that bolts to the top of the front, then you could use a receiver mounted winch too…
 
Sorry, I missed read and thought you were doing the rear. If you put some thicker plate in behind to stiffen and reinforce the front you should be fine with just a basket. I welded in some 3/16 plate behind for my shackle mounts but ended up chasing some "blow through" holes because the oem bumper is so thin. To handle that kind of twisting torque, do a full C channel type of re-enforcement all the way across from frame horn to frame horn. Might even put some re-enforcement between the frame and the bumper to take up the slack space that is there and help transfer the twisting force to the front of the frame horn.
 
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MikekiM said:
That could work. I could weld to the front bumper and weld a nut to the bottom of the cross member tube so the front bumper could still be removable. You really think that short center section of the bumper between mounting points would twist with just fifty to sixty pounds on it?
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Probably, because that 60 pounds multiplies when leveraged out front and bouncing.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
I never saw a bolt on receiver hitch strong enough for typical winching duties.
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I'm not looking for a recover point or winch mount. Nor do I want to bolt it on. I want to weld it in and support it well enough to carry some light gear in a cargo basket.

If anyone has suggestions as to how to accomplish, I'd appreciate the feedback.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
Apples and oranges. A receiver hitch is typically only rated for rolling weight of no more than 3500 lbs. on average with only light side loads.
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Imagine what shouldn't, but often is, done on all these unrated hitch bumpers, d-ring mounts, and bolt mounted tow hooks (even from the factory)!
 
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MikekiM said:
I'm not looking for a recover point or winch mount. Nor do I want to bolt it on. I want to weld it in and support it well enough to carry some light gear in a cargo basket.
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The leverage/bouncing is the big concern, especially with how thin the OEM bumpers are. You'd need to add some supports (at a minimum), maybe something like a coped spacer between the bumper and crossmember and a backer. Even so, the bumper is very thin.
MikekiM said:
If anyone has suggestions as to how to accomplish, I'd appreciate the feedback.
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Lots of strengthening by tying into the frame (or cross members) and/or beefing up the bumper(s). Ideally all of those.
 
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MikekiM said:
I’ve modified both front & rear bumpers on my TJ and have no real reason to replace them at the moment.

I’d like to weld in a Class II receiver into the front bumper only for the purpose of using a receiver mounted cargo basket. I won’t carry more than a medium cooler and camp gear. It won’t be a recovery point and I won’t tow with it.

I had a bend in both front and rear and all attempts to straighten them failed so I know the stock bumpers are reasonably strong, but not sure if they are strong enough to handle the cargo basket.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Funny you should bring this up. I’m in the middle of modifying my stock rear bumper. Though thin, I think the metal is not your average mild steel. It has a fair bit of memory. I did a stubby on my front recently. The end was bent and the deformity extended beyond my planned cut. I was expecting to need to reshape it with some heat and or force. But when I made my cut the deformity sprang back, no bending necessary. Based on this, I’m going to weld a receiver into the rear (for a 2 bike rack only-not for towing or recovery). I’ll reinforce it some but I’m feeling like it may work. Here it is trimmed to make clearance for my recovery hook:
7A8AA9D9-24EC-4EFA-A5AC-098A519DECC5.jpeg
Next, I cut out hole and slot for the receiver and welded up some other holes:
F3A57B03-255B-4E97-81C2-F5700C3B45FA.jpeg


F1C4AFDC-5464-4D20-80C5-4A7BC82D3E08.jpeg

I’ll try to remember to post the result when I’m done.
 
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Woodrow said:
Funny you should bring this up. I’m in the middle of modifying my stock rear bumper. Though thin, I think the metal is not your average mild steel. It has a fair bit of memory. I did a stubby on my front recently. The end was bent and the deformity extended beyond my planned cut. I was expecting to need to reshape it with some heat and or force. But when I made my cut the deformity sprang back, no bending necessary. Based on this, I’m going to weld a receiver into the rear (for a 2 bike rack only-not for towing or recovery). I’ll reinforce it some but I’m feeling like it may work. Here it is trimmed to make clearance for my recovery hook:
View attachment 357322Next, I cut out hole and slot for the receiver and welded up some other holes:
View attachment 357324

View attachment 357323
I’ll try to remember to post the result when I’m done.
Click to expand...

That’s exactly what I was thinking. Very interested in how this turns out.
 
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