Just removed my 4.5" springs and installed the 3": Did my toe change?
- Thread starter rraulston
- Start date
Probably need to shorten the length of the link (drag link?) that connects up near your pitman arm using the adjusting sleeve and re-center the steering wheel. I don't believe the toe changes.
If you have the stock steering linkages, then yeah, changing the angle of the drag link and tie rod will affect toe. It may also move your steering wheel off center. If it seems like you need an alignment, then you probably do.
The toe will change with the inverted Y due to the angle of the draglink going to the passenger side knuckle. As that angle decreases or flattens out from lowering the rig, the distance between the two steering arms will increase which changes the toe angle. The steering wheel is also going to be off-center. The toe should be set first and then the steering wheel centered after.
OP
I did not change shocks. I trimmed 3/4" off the 3" bump stops and jacked the axel all the way up until the bumps touched. The shocks were not bottomed out. on the 4.5" springs the shocks looked fully extended. I think these shocks may have been too short for the 4.5. Now I have to sort the tires. the 305/70-16 look huge. My goal is 33/10.5-15 or17. There is a set of JK rubi wheels, all 5 takeoffs, for $300 local. I think with 1.5" spacers I should be fine. I will say this, The RE track bar weighs like 8 pounds as its hollow. The Rough Country Forged (cheap @ $139) weighs 18 pounds. For my type of offroad, you cant beat it.
Yes, good call. I got to thinking about that after I posted. Toe would change slightly. Maybe the OP was reacting to his new steering wheel position.
When you jacked the axle all the way up, did you have the coils and soft jounces removed?
OP
Shocks in place, Energy Suspension Poly bushing installed, springs removed, all steering links removed. The poly bushings don't really compress so I left them...
OP
https://www.roughcountry.com/forged-adjustable-track-bar-1044.html
Adjusting axel center was a breeze! And I prefer rubber bushings. I have converted my Jeep to all rubber bushings as I am 80% highway to 20% offroad. I want to enjoy the trip there as much as the offroad part.
I don't see mention of a dropped pitman arm. How much is the frame side lowered compared to stock? I can't quite visualize it with the bushing turned 90deg.
Got it. They found whoever was making them for Teraflex back in the day. That would be a much better bar with the stock tapered pin mounting.
OP
I couldn't go back stock as the frame mount was already drilled out from the Rubicon Express stuff. This bar simply pivots on one axis. It cant get much simpler or stout. I went with all the currie stuff but track bars. There comes a time when your wife and wallet start screaming and you have to make due with less.....
OP
OP
Well, today had plusses and minuses. Here is a pic after doing the front. Then after the rear was completed. Man, this was from a 4.5 to a 3 inch. Sure seems like more that a 1.5 inch drop, but I verified the springs and they are 3". The tires are 305/70-16.
Here are a few pics of the installed parts. The front shocks were perfect. The rear are not. I run out of shock 1.5" from the bump in the rear. Leave it to 4wheelparts. I thought the rear looked close to fully extended on the 4.5" springs. You can see the track bar as well. I know RC has a bad rep, but 2 huge beefy forged track bars for $300? I'm in. The fit was flawless and I am a fan of those adjusting sleeves. Wish my control arms were like that.
But there were issues. I'm not a fan of the RC rear shock extenders. The ones I removed were twice the thickness (but bent up). I easily collapsed them as I was tightening the shock. And last , the biggest PITA was the JKS rear track bar adapter/mount. There are 3 holes in it. When the bracket is firmly pressed into place, none of the holes were clean. I had to clamp it in position and drill each hole. The last issue was the wallowed out upper rear track bar mount. I had to upsize it then drill the Track bar bushing insert to match. Had I used the factory bolt, I would have had 1/8 play in the mount hole and 1/8 play in the bushing insert. It then took a few hours to align the front. The steering wheel was 180 out. And then the test drive. Soft, smooth, not bouncy. Flawless. The last thing Ill do is a new steering gear box. I would never own a shop. Doing it right and hand fitting all the bushings is cost prohibitive. Most customers would never pay that kind of money. So yes on the RC track bars and no on the RC shock extenders and JKS rear TB bracket. P.S. I also found 2 missing caliper bolts. The holes were stripped out..... gees...... rr
Here are a few pics of the installed parts. The front shocks were perfect. The rear are not. I run out of shock 1.5" from the bump in the rear. Leave it to 4wheelparts. I thought the rear looked close to fully extended on the 4.5" springs. You can see the track bar as well. I know RC has a bad rep, but 2 huge beefy forged track bars for $300? I'm in. The fit was flawless and I am a fan of those adjusting sleeves. Wish my control arms were like that.
But there were issues. I'm not a fan of the RC rear shock extenders. The ones I removed were twice the thickness (but bent up). I easily collapsed them as I was tightening the shock. And last , the biggest PITA was the JKS rear track bar adapter/mount. There are 3 holes in it. When the bracket is firmly pressed into place, none of the holes were clean. I had to clamp it in position and drill each hole. The last issue was the wallowed out upper rear track bar mount. I had to upsize it then drill the Track bar bushing insert to match. Had I used the factory bolt, I would have had 1/8 play in the mount hole and 1/8 play in the bushing insert. It then took a few hours to align the front. The steering wheel was 180 out. And then the test drive. Soft, smooth, not bouncy. Flawless. The last thing Ill do is a new steering gear box. I would never own a shop. Doing it right and hand fitting all the bushings is cost prohibitive. Most customers would never pay that kind of money. So yes on the RC track bars and no on the RC shock extenders and JKS rear TB bracket. P.S. I also found 2 missing caliper bolts. The holes were stripped out..... gees...... rr
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Two things, the caliper mount holes are easily repaired with solid threaded inserts. Avoid helical inserts as they are best used in blind holes. Second thing is the 1/8" of play in the rear track bar hole would have worked just fine had you just torqued a quality bolt correctly.
Well, three things, you need to brace the track bar mount you drilled a hole in.
If those red poly jounces don't have any give, it doesn't look like you'll have much up travel. Just an observation based on your pic angle.
OP