Key-In Chime not working

bedhed

bedhed

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2019
Messages
920
Location
Florida
After discovering a broken actuator pin, I replaced that part a month or so ago. Since then, the key-in chime has not worked.

"ON" position: Chime works
"Key-In" position: Chime doesn't work
"Accessory" position: Chime doesn't work

While the key is in one of the two positions that the chime doesn't work, I can push inward on the lock cylinder and the chime works, until I release. I get the feeling there's a simple explanation, only I've not thought of it. I'm at a loss, here.

Here's a video

The one thing that I am unsure about is the hole that is on the opposite end of the (oem) lock cylinder. In that hole, there is a loosely fitting plastic pin that contacts with the actuator pin, compresses and activates the chime. I'm wondering if that pin's length has anything to do with it. Aside from that, I'm stumped until I can get back to it tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
I couldn’t stand that sound, so I removed the chime from behind the cluster. I assume this is a feature you would like to keep. I can’t provide any details on the fix.
 
  • Like
Reactions: L J
It is, yeah. The chime is annoying as hell sometimes, no doubt. I can stop that when needed though. I'm so used to the chime being there, that I've locked my keys inside three times now. I need my reminder back. :LOL:
 
It maybe your drivers door jam switch. Mine was bad, but for the dome light only. The dome light worked fine when you opened the passenger door, but when you opened the drivers door, the chime would work if the key was in, but the dome light did not light. Replaced door switch...real easy plug and play to remove and replace, lights and ignition chime work fine. Other thought would be fuse 4, defeats Door switches.
 
I would look at replacing the ignition actuator.
Sounds like that should do it for you.
 
PJOJeep said:
It maybe your drivers door jam switch. Mine was bad, but for the dome light only. The dome light worked fine when you opened the passenger door, but when you opened the drivers door, the chime would work if the key was in, but the dome light did not light. Replaced door switch...real easy plug and play to remove and replace, lights and ignition chime work fine. Other thought would be fuse 4, defeats Door switches.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Not the door switch though. Here's what I checked:

Continuity between each of the door switch pins
Continuity between the door switch and the ignition switch plug
Continuity between the instrument cluster plug and ignition switch plug
Continuity between the "Key-In Sense" and ground circuit of the ignition switch plug

After all of that, I thought it was that last one. I picked up a new ignition switch, but this is happening with the new part too.
dbbd1 said:
I would look at replacing the ignition actuator.
Sounds like that should do it for you.
Click to expand...
I replaced the ignition actuator a month or so ago. The pin is what is pushing into the ignition switch and activating the chime. Only it seems to not be pushing far enough when the key is in 2/3 of those positions.
 
Is your ignition key loose in the ignition?
Can you remove it in any other position than the normal "off?"
 
dbbd1 said:
Is your ignition key loose in the ignition?
Can you remove it in any other position than the normal "off?"
Click to expand...
Not really loose, no. I don't believe so anyway. I'm not able to get anymore than a slight wiggle from it around the tumblers. 100% sure with the last one. It can only be removed when it's in the "off" position.

I forgot to mention last night, but I don't recall the cylinder lock being able to get pushed inward before I replaced the actuator pin. That thought runs inline with my thinking on the lock cylinder "hole" that I mentioned. Like the tolerances aren't what they should be. I don't really know.
Maybe the cylinder did move inward before, and I had never put much thought into it before. I'm really not sure. Does yours push inward like this?
 
It's working now. Turns out that it was the aftermarket ignition switch. You can see in this video, the lock cylinder can only be pushed in half the distance that it could before.

If I didn't have plans on returning it, I would pull it apart to see if it's defective or if it's the spacing between the contacts that are different.
The full story with my ignition issues wasn't very relevant, so I didn't get into it. But, the aftermarket switch ("Standard" brand) was the second one I had tried. The first one wasn't working, so I took it apart, and here's what I saw.
IMG_20200126_171036.jpg


And, then came the second one. It worked, but not fully.

This turned into another lesson in Mopar vs Aftermarket for me. Unless it's an emergency or the Mopar part is discontinued, I won't make that mistake again.
 
Thanks for the info. I have the same issue and an aftermarket ignition switch. Mine was changed when I rekeyed my Jeep because my keys and alarm fob were stolen at an shaddy auto body shop when I guess someone planned to steal my Jeep. I bet they were shocked when the fob, nor the key worked anymore. I took my Jeep out of that shop and never went back. They were hiring felons.
 
Top Bottom
Back