Khaki TJ Build - 2005 Sport

khakitj

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2019
Messages
249
Location
NorCal
A little over a month ago, I posted in the New Member Welcome area about my first Jeep. I've been busy since then - I wanted to start a thread like this sooner, but kept waiting until I finished the next project, but I've now realized that there will always be a next project and if I keep waiting until it's "finished" I will just never post anything!

So here's the background from the intro thread:

I bought my first Jeep, a private party purchase from a Craigslist ad. It's a 2005 TJ Sport - 4.0L automatic, 102K miles, almost completely stock with the exception of brand new Bilstein 5100 shocks and 31x10.5 KO2 tires. It has the Dana 44 rear with limited slip, 3.73 gear ratio, 4 wheel disc brakes. It's a clean, no rust CA Jeep. Most of my life I've lived on the East Coast, so I'm still excited whenever I see vehicles more than a few years old with no rust. Hard top and soft top are both in good condition.

Here's what it looked like when I bought it:


00m0m_ka1u0q2xqvz_1200x900-jpg.jpg



I took it to a mechanic a few days later to replace the heater core (and evap too while it was open), put in a new track bar, sway bar links, front and rear differential service, and replace valve cover gaskets. Based on what I had learned from this forum, these issues had mostly been identified by me prior to the purchase of my TJ, and the costs were considered in the price I paid.

Next I did the steer stop adjustment (2 washers on each side), then took off the milk jugs.

I bought a new light switch assembly to fix the common issue with fog lights staying on all the time. This ended up being more involved than I expected, due to a melted connector and other issues I've mentioned in other threads on rebuilding the multi-function switch. I ended up removing the fog lights.

I replaced the license plate holder that was advertising for a dealer two owners ago.

I also bought H&R springs and installed them - it was my first real mechanical project and felt great to accomplish. The ride quality improvement compared to the old stock springs was just extraordinary. It really made me consider this Jeep as a possible daily driver for the first time. I've read so many great things about the combination of H&R springs with Bilstein shocks.

I spent more time than I could have imagined just trying to understand bump stops, because there is a lot of mixed information out there. If I now understand correctly, the issue here is more about the Bilsteins having a collapsed length that is slightly longer than the stock shocks on front and back. When I installed the springs, I checked to see if I need to add more to the bump stops, and there was enough margin in the stock configuration that it wasn't be needed.

I added new wheels and replaced the original stock spare tire with a matching KO2. Others here have commented that they hate shopping for wheels. I feel the same. The stock ravines are fine, really. But with 10.5" wide tires, although the steer stop adjustment works, one of the things most appealing to me about the TJ is the tight turning radius, so I went with something with slightly less backspacing than my stock ravines. The Mamba MR1X is a moab look-alike in a 15" wheel with 4.5" backspacing. I went with the matte black finish.

I don't have any mechanical experience and I'm curious to learn more through owning this Jeep and trying to do some things myself. On the other hand, I do have a combination of impatience and the means to hire a trusted mechanic when I just want to get something done.

It's getting late, so here's a quick list of things I've done (or had done) to my Jeep since I bought it:

heater core,

A/C evaporator,

new track bar,

sway bar links,

front and rear differential service,

valve cover gaskets,

bumper caps,

multi-function switch assembly,

rebuilt multi-function switch connector,

replace license plate holder,

H&R springs (1.4" lift in front, 0.8" in rear (measured with seats out and spare tire off)),

jounce bumpers,

replace stock spare tire with matching KO2,

Mamba MR1X wheels matte black,

alignment,

brake flush, bleed, new fluid,

replace radiator cap,

cleaned throttle body,

derale direct fit transmission cooler,

rear pinion seal,

thorough cleaning / deodorizing (coolant smell, pets):

carpets - taken off and washed/shampoo, removed dog hair
seats - taken off and washed/shampoo, removed dog hair
all other interior - cleaned thoroughly while carpets/seats were out, pulled plugs and hosed it down
neoprene seat covers - washed with wetsuit shampoo and deodorizer

installed sound deadening:
removable Second Skin luxury liner throughout,
a few Sound Deadener Showdown CLD tiles strategically placed, mainly on wheel wells, lower firewall (keeping them off areas where water could pool)

in doors, Sound Deadener Showdown CLD tiles and Mass Loaded Vinyl

seat risers (buchanan precision machine 1.5"),

GraBars grab handles with grommets,

RAM mount phone holder on driver GraBar,

Rugged Ridge paracord grab handles for kids climbing in back,

Daystar hood latches,

universal cloning garage door / gate opener,

bluetooth RF adapter,

LED headlights,
(JW speaker knock-offs, LX-Light, 600+ reviews 4.5 stars on amazon, $80 - just wanted to replace stock, they're OK for now),
black headlight bezels,
smoked front turn signals / side markers (REVi),

LED 3rd brake light,

LED spare tire brake light,

damaged interior pieces:
replaced scratched passenger windshield molding,
replaced cracked defrost vent cover,
fixed common door panel crack, covered with grip tape

grip tape on door sill

replaced edge trim on hood

replaced weatherstripping on windshield wiper assembly

lengthened spare tire bumpers with cut up rubber mallet



Purchased, not yet installed:

ford mustang dead pedal

boom mat sound deadening headliner

hard top quick removal bolts with tie down anchors

hard top retainer nut with clips (two clips were missing)

frame hole cover plugs

battery hold down replacement

headlight relay wiring harness

black grille inserts

Whew, now that I've written it all down, it seems like a lot. And I haven't even got to all the stuff I plan to do in the future.

I'll add some more detail on things I've done or plan to do, and more pics later.

Plans for the near future are to keep this focused on light trail duty, beaches, and getting to access points for hiking, fishing, hunting, and other outdoor activities / family adventures.
 
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Here are some pics.

front view, pic taken a week or two back - these smoked turn signals I saw on @EJD ‘s build. I messaged him and he pointed me to where to buy them on amazon. Turns out they were using his Jeep in their amazon photos.

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Side view, I like the black mamba wheels, more than I expected
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dash with grab bars just installed
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RAM mount phone holder on grab bars - this is a great location, not blocking vents or windshield view, not too close to steering wheel, window, or anything else

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h&r springs, bilstein shocks. Note the excessive redundancy on jack stands. one of the 6 ton stands shown is supporting the weight on this side, others are for backup
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rubber mallet spare tire bumper extension. The mallet was stamped made in the USA, seemed appropriate

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Spare tire brake light LED. This didn’t actually fit right, product listing said 16” wheels and up. I took the dremel to the outer edge all the way around to make it fit


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trimbrite grip tape to replace the decroded original door sill protector
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On the interior door panels, I put some black grip tape on the top. On one side I also applied a matte gray vinyl wrap on top of the grip tape, haven’t finished the other side yet, still deciding which I like better. What do you guys think?

driver side black:

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Passenger side gray vinyl wrap over black grip tape:

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Beautiful work, and accessories added.
I added this to my favourite as I like lot so things (e.g. the ford mustang dead pedal) Is this a direct install?

I loved the Khaki colour, with the grey top definitely outstanding.

Keep going man, AMUSE US.
 
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Beautiful work, and accessories added.
I added this to my favourite as I like lot so things (e.g. the ford mustang dead pedal) Is this a direct install?

I loved the Khaki colour, with the grey top definitely outstanding.

Keep going man, AMUSE US.

Well I do slapstick comedy too - when torquing down the bolts for the grab bars, it’s hard to get it lined up so I was standing above it pulling towards myself, the wrench slipped off the bolt and I punched myself right in the nose!

For the Ford Mustang dead pedal, I got the idea here. It’s mentioned in several different budget mod threads, but I think I first read it here:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/mods-that-i-liked-more-than-i-expected.24321/page-3
about halfway down the page

looks OEM, attaches with sheet metal screws but I’m going to use nutserts.

thanks for the nice comments everyone
 
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Great looking Jeep! and I wanna say I like the grey better almost..

Thanks, the black is a little too shiny to me, at least compared to the rest of the interior. I bought some other color vinyl wrap, some matte black and dark gray, going to try a few different ways. This stuff is fairly cheap (~$5 for the amount I used), and only takes 10 minutes or so to apply.
 
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Really nice Jeep!

I like the matte color for the doors. I thought about doing something similar but then trying to color match it with the door panel.
Thanks!
I couldn’t find anything to match the door exactly, but there are other trim pieces that are black or “dark slate gray” that should be easier to match.
 
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Well I do slapstick comedy too - when torquing down the bolts for the grab bars, it’s hard to get it lined up so I was standing above it pulling towards myself, the wrench slipped off the bolt and I punched myself right in the nose!

For the Ford Mustang dead pedal, I got the idea here. It’s mentioned in several different budget mod threads, but I think I first read it here:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/mods-that-i-liked-more-than-i-expected.24321/page-3
about halfway down the page

looks OEM, attaches with sheet metal screws but I’m going to use nutserts.

thanks for the nice comments everyone

I meant amuse us in the way of posting more of great mods and ideas :ROFLMAO: but yeah..

I’ll be waiting to see how you are going to install it, and decide from there.
I’ll check the junkyard today might be able to find one before ordering.
 
Something else I wanted to add, just a note to say Thank You to everyone who has posted here over the years. There is so much helpful information that allowed me to do so much with my first jeep in just a little over a month. In particular, posts related to H&R springs / Bilstein combo, spring installation, bump stop checks, floor jack and jack stand recommendations, the list goes on. @EJD 's build was the first one that caught my eye and gave me a lot of great ideas. @mrblaine , @Jerry Bransford , @StG58 , @jjvw , @fuse , @tworley , and of course, @Chris - you guys, and so many others, have all been a phenomenal source of information and inspiration.
 
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Installed the Ford Mustang dead pedal today.

Thanks to everyone on this forum who has posted on this installation, here and on other forums.

I bought it on eBay and it came with the original sheet metal screws, but I thought nutserts might provide a more reliable connection.

Since the pedal sort of has an OEM look, keeping with that theme I repurposed two of the M8 screws originally for the hard top that I had replaced with thumb screws.

This pic is after I had cleaned the pedal and applied a little touch up paint:


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To fit these screws I had to bore out the original holes slightly. This next pic shows one hole complete and the other original:
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I used 3M double sided tape to test different locations to see what was most comfortable, then drilled the two holes. I used a 3/8” drill bit, but would have been better off with about a 7/16” because I had to do a bit more work to get the nutserts to fit. I didn’t want to go up to 1/2” and have it be too big.

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M8 nutserts installed

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And it’s done:

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Installed the Ford Mustang dead pedal today.

Thanks to everyone on this forum who has posted on this installation, here and on other forums.

I bought it on eBay and it came with the original sheet metal screws, but I thought nutserts might provide a more reliable connection.

Since the pedal sort of has an OEM look, keeping with that theme I repurposed two of the M8 screws originally for the hard top that I had replaced with thumb screws.

This pic is after I had cleaned the pedal and applied a little touch up paint:


View attachment 121765

To fit these screws I had to bore out the original holes slightly. This next pic shows one hole complete and the other original:
View attachment 121766

I used 3M double sided tape to test different locations to see what was most comfortable, then drilled the two holes. I used a 3/8” drill bit, but would have been better off with about a 7/16” because I had to do a bit more work to get the nutserts to fit. I didn’t want to go up to 1/2” and have it be too big.

View attachment 121767

M8 nutserts installed

View attachment 121768

And it’s done:

View attachment 121769

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View attachment 121772
That does not look like a nutsert that is atypical in any regard. Unless there is some oddity about them, the hole size should be 17/32 for an 8mm HD ribbed flanged nutsert. That is also the same size for the 5/16-18 nutserts commonly used to attach armor and rock rails. The easy way to tell what size hole a nutsert needs is with a drill bit sizing guide. Just drop the nutsert into the holes until one is a snug fit and use that bit.
 
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That does not look like a nutsert that is atypical in any regard. Unless there is some oddity about them, the hole size should be 17/32 for an 8mm HD ribbed flanged nutsert. That is also the same size for the 5/16-18 nutserts commonly used to attach armor and rock rails. The easy way to tell what size hole a nutsert needs is with a drill bit sizing guide. Just drop the nutsert into the holes until one is a snug fit and use that bit.

Thanks. This is helpful to know about for future reference. I’ve never used nutserts before, so was kind of just eyeballing it holding up against various drill bits.

These nutserts came in a kit along with the install tool I bought from amazon. It doesn’t surprise me if they are atypical, and may not be the highest quality. We’ll see how they hold up over time.

I took some measurements of one the the M8 nutserts I used to test the tool.

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the units are 1/10”, so that’s about a .425” min hole size and a little over .55” on the max.
 
Thanks. This is helpful to know about for future reference. I’ve never used nutserts before, so was kind of just eyeballing it holding up against various drill bits.

These nutserts came in a kit along with the install tool I bought from amazon. It doesn’t surprise me if they are atypical, and may not be the highest quality. We’ll see how they hold up over time.

I took some measurements of one the the M8 nutserts I used to test the tool.

View attachment 121826
View attachment 121828

the units are 1/10”, so that’s about a .425” min hole size and a little over .55” on the max.
That doesn't have the anti spin ribs so it makes sense that it would be smaller. 7/16" seems to be the appropriate hole size for them.
 
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Two small upgrades to the dead pedal today. Because the nutsert didn’t set flush, the pedal was only touching the body at this point, which allowed the pedal to have just a little more flex than I liked.

I suppose the best thing might be to modify the pedal to allow for a countersink, but instead I added a scrap piece of MLV to the back side of the pedal to allow for a bigger contact patch with the body.

Also, while taking it off I remembered how frustrating torx heads can be, so I replaced the screws I had on there with hex heads that I had removed from my seats when I installed my seat risers. (I think these will work well for the GraBar mount too instead of the OEM torx, will test later today)

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I think it’s finished for now. It feels nice and sturdy, and comfortable. Later on if I think it will help, I might do what someone else suggested and just have it welded in place.
 
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I haven’t posted any recent pics with the hard top on. It’s in fairly good condition, just about a dozen or so rice grain sized chips where the white fiberglass is showing. I’m going to look into getting it repainted at some point.

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Today has been a little frustrating.

Started trying to figure out why my windshield washer fluid isn’t coming out, in either my front or hard top rear windows. I’ve read on here some things to investigate and found a link to a replacement pump. First I wanted to check out what was happening when I tried to turn it on. Neither pump (front or back) were trying to work at all. I noticed that the front pump had been replaced previously because it had an adapter harness and looked different than the rear. Before I order another pump or two, I just thought it would be good to check whether I’m actually getting any power at the connector for the pump, and it turns out I am not. This is supposed to be on the same fuse/circuit as the windshield wipers, which do work, so I’m wondering now if there is an issue with the wiper control switch. I had previously replaced the multifunction switch on the other side, so it wouldn’t surprise me if this needed replaced too. I don’t know if this would affect the rear wiper fluid, though. I put everything away before I remembered I should have also checked for power at the rear wiper fluid pump connector.

I ran out to autozone to pick up some other items and checked in price/availability for the wiper control switch but did not order it yet.

This was my first time taking the Jeep out with the top on since putting in a lot of my sound deadening. It’s a noticeable improvement.

Also, since having the derale transmission cooler, I haven’t been able to get it warmed up enough to get the fan to turn on, so I took it out on some moderate hills on the highway, up to 80mph, drove it around for about a half hour.

Pulled back into my driveway and got out to check if the fan is running (left the Jeep running because the fan is wired to shut off with ignition off), and the fan was still not running. It is a sunny day here but not too hot, and we have strong cool winds, so it may not be hot enough still. Or, there’s a problem with the fan or wiring.

Anyway, what I did notice instead was that the cooler is leaking transmission fluid. There was a few ounces of it on the ground, and all over the cooler.

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Then I turn the Jeep off and walked over to my garage, after about 20 seconds I hear a gush of fluid coming from my Jeep, but at the front this time, and a lot more than I saw before. This is coming from my radiator, and seems like it’s coming out all over.

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This is on the inside, there was coolant all over the fan, up on the hood, and had dripped off the fan shroud all over the steering stablilzer.

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