Knurled to non-knurled ball joints

[catbones2010]

So I'm currently experiencing some shimmy, and while I did everything so far possible to balance my tires, check them, road force balance them through a few local shops, my shimmy still here. Noticed a little play in the RC trackbar so replaced it with MetalCloak one. My 2006 Jeep LJ only has 67k on it, 2.5 inch lift and 33 inch tires. While checking all the rest of the steering, I didn't see anything moving other then a possible bad ball joint on driver side. I can lift it up and down with some force by hand, ohh so little but enough to make a clunk up and down. I'm thinking possible that is my issue.

Long story short; thinking of replacing ball joints which are Rough Country ball joints. Looking at photos of them, they seem to be the knurled ones. I'd like to go with Spicer ones that are smooth. I've seen many here used a punch on the smooth Spicer ball joints and 680 Loctite to press those in place of Knurled ones.

My question would be, how successful was that for those that did do the switch back?? I'm thinking if I replace and go with RC or any knurled brand, its aftermarket and they might not last as long again.

Thanks in advance for the feedback, opinions and tips.

 

[mrblaine]

So I'm currently experiencing some shimmy, and while I did everything so far possible to balance my tires, check them, road force balance them through a few local shops, my shimmy still here. Noticed a little play in the RC trackbar so replaced it with MetalCloak one. My 2006 Jeep LJ only has 67k on it, 2.5 inch lift and 33 inch tires. While checking all the rest of the steering, I didn't see anything moving other then a possible bad ball joint on driver side. I can lift it up and down with some force by hand, ohh so little but enough to make a clunk up and down. I'm thinking possible that is my issue.

Long story short; thinking of replacing ball joints which are Rough Country ball joints. Looking at photos of them, they seem to be the knurled ones. I'd like to go with Spicer ones that are smooth. I've seen many here used a punch on the smooth Spicer ball joints and 680 Loctite to press those in place of Knurled ones.

My question would be, how successful was that for those that did do the switch back?? I'm thinking if I replace and go with RC or any knurled brand, its aftermarket and they might not last as long again.

Thanks in advance for the feedback, opinions and tips.

I think it would be pretty special if a company like RC who seems to be unable to get most of anything very well done could step out of that low attention to detail philosophy and actually build a good ball joint.

 

[catbones2010]

I think it would be pretty special if a company like RC who seems to be unable to get most of anything very well done could step out of that low attention to detail philosophy and actually build a good ball joint.

Agree, I think its RC in there because of the color of the boot and no marking on them. It's possible they are Alloy USA but its the same thing, knurled and from what I hear same junk.

These came on the Jeep, not my selection of choice. I'm just trying to plan ahead before I press them out and gotta make a decision so hoping somoene had pure success putting smooth ball joints back in with some hack to em

 

[macleanflood]

Some light reading...

Thread 'In which we discuss knurled ball joints'

Apr 5, 2024

I did the ball joints on my 97 tonight. I had the spicers in hand, but imagine my surprise when the ones I pulled out were knurled. At one time I thought I read that once you used knurled you HAD to stay with knurled but I don't know if that's fact or just an old wive's tale that's been repeated over the years.

The bores on the passenger side had slight indentations from the knurling, but nothing that would even catch a fingernail. The bores on the drivers side didn't have much in the way of marks, which is what has me worried. I've done like 7 or 8 sets of ball joints so I have a...

• hear
• Replies: 12
• Forum: TJ General Discussion

-Mac

 

[TJ Jim]

I had one side knurled and one side smooth. Pinged the new smooth ones all the way around maybe fifteen or twenty pings. 20,000 miles later and I’m still running smooth and straight. No wobble or shakes. It fit back in tight. Ping it and send it.

 

[Mike_H]

I went from Knurled to smooth Spicer joints a couple years ago too. I did a series of punches to displace material around the OD of the press fit section. No issues.

 

[Irun]

Like @Mike_H, I too converted from knurled back to stock Spicers. While I only have roughly a thousand miles since the replacement, they pressed in very firmly and haven't moved since the install. Also, I believe the correct Locktite is 609, but others will jump in to correct me if needed. The following shows 609 as a typical use for press fit applications.

https://www.mecampbell.com/media/pd...ceLQ9nkkIUtD6GnN3diwb9tYVnCV3jKYN1esIMY8JNn77

 

[catbones2010]

Like @Mike_H, I too converted from knurled back to stock Spicers. While I only have roughly a thousand miles since the replacement, they pressed in very firmly and haven't moved since the install. Also, I believe the correct Locktite is 609, but others will jump in to correct me if needed. The following shows 609 as a typical use for press fit applications.

https://www.mecampbell.com/media/pd...ceLQ9nkkIUtD6GnN3diwb9tYVnCV3jKYN1esIMY8JNn77

I only went and got 680 because it's stronger. I knew about 609 but thought stronger better? I might be wrong

 

[Andy-WhiteTJ]

I used the punch method and loctite 609 and it worked well.

Edited: correction

 

[catbones2010]

That should do it for tomorrow's install.

 

[mrblaine]

That should do it for tomorrow's install. View attachment 573059

That will work- for future reference, I prefer a sharper punch, less depth, and more of them. It really doesn't take much to really increase the interference fit.

 

[catbones2010]

That will work- for future reference, I prefer a sharper punch, less depth, and more of them. It really doesn't take much to really increase the interference fit.

It was pretty sharp and new I could add a few more in there if needed but I can sure feel the difference already.

 

[catbones2010]

That will work- for future reference, I prefer a sharper punch, less depth, and more of them. It really doesn't take much to really increase the interference fit.

I can probably use the smaller punch, like the push punch for smaller ones in between if you think itll be better but if not, then no need the extra work and I will be using 680 loctite on it.

 

[mrblaine]

I can probably use the smaller punch, like the push punch for smaller ones in between if you think itll be better but if not, then no need the extra work and I will be using 680 loctite on it.

I already said that will work.

 

[catbones2010]

Guessing the lower ball joint is done.

Hub doesn't rotate freely or makes no noise so that's good. Axle shaft flip flops easily within the ujoints which I'm guessing are good too... no up down movement within the cap of the joint or noises, etc.. While I'm here worth replacing hubs and ujoints?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SJbGiX29Em4kaYwb7

 

[macleanflood]

I used to. But new parts are as much of a crap shoot as the ones that are on there...and that's not too much of a dig.

Inner axle seals...those I might change for kicks and giggles.

-Mac