Lax22’s 03 TJ Rubicon - East Coast Trail Rig

Went to The Cove In Gore Va. for our clubs annual winter run (even tough it was in the low 50s) and had a great time. Not many pictures, but got a good shot playing on the far side of “Bunny Hole”.
5638688E-948D-44A2-9C3B-A69A3D542AEF.png

The Jeep did well and I was easier on it than i had been in the past. But I need to do something about my wheels, the lips get bent on almost every outing.
5C5B6379-D303-4725-9FCB-D2BB6E11780C.jpeg
 
I guess for anyone who is following, would aluminum rims hold up any better if I’m bending steel ones like this? I’ve thought about getting a set of 16-inch moabs or something, but I would hate to crack a rim or chip a lip and be out of commission when I can just bend the lip back and keep going, thoughts?
 
I have cracked two aluminum rims since switching from Steel to Aluminum, but I still prefer aluminum. Both times that I cracked the AL wheel, it held air for the rest of the trip and until I got home.
1. They "slide" and the aluminum "peels" on the rocks which seems to allow for less damage overall and also allows you to clear the obstacle.
2. The overall weight of the wheel/tire is so much less which makes them so much easier to manhandle, lift, work on, etc.....

Here is pic of the last AL wheel that I cracked.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/tennessee-red.42238/post-1042315
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lax22
I guess for anyone who is following, would aluminum rims hold up any better if I’m bending steel ones like this? I’ve thought about getting a set of 16-inch moabs or something, but I would hate to crack a rim or chip a lip and be out of commission when I can just bend the lip back and keep going, thoughts?

I've always liked steel wheels but like you found out you can peel a bead or bend them. But as others have said with an aluminum rim you can crack or chip them. Or scrap the edge of the rim down where it won't hold air. As I see it there are trade-offs to both.
IMO if you are going to stay with steel rim then run some type of rock ring or bead protector.
Back when I was building my Hummer beadlocks I bought some rolled rebar that fit into the bead of the rim. Of get some half rock rings.

IMGP1749.jpg


These were the rock rings

IMGP1751.jpg


Here is some damage to the rims but the beads were fine.

IMGP2276.JPG



IMGP2277.JPG



Yes steel is heavier than aluminum but I've seen some pretty heavy aluminum rims too.
 
Many years ago I ran steel wheels and would routinely bend them to the point where air would leak out. I carried a large ball peen hammer and got pretty good at beating them back into shape. Eventually, switching to aluminum wheels convinced me that was the way to go. Yes, they would get gouged and scratched, but a Dremel tool and assortment of bits solved that problem. Only once after that did I lose a bead, which was the result of binding a tire and turning the wheel.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lax22
I've always liked steel wheels but like you found out you can peel a bead or bend them. But as others have said with an aluminum rim you can crack or chip them. Or scrap the edge of the rim down where it won't hold air. As I see it there are trade-offs to both.
IMO if you are going to stay with steel rim then run some type of rock ring or bead protector.
Back when I was building my Hummer beadlocks I bought some rolled rebar that fit into the bead of the rim. Of get some half rock rings.

View attachment 309925

These were the rock rings

View attachment 309926

Here is some damage to the rims but the beads were fine.

View attachment 309923


View attachment 309924


Yes steel is heavier than aluminum but I've seen some pretty heavy aluminum rims too.
I actually have a set of rebar rings in the garage for that purpose. I just haven’t gotten around to dismounting the tires to take it on.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman
1. They "slide" and the aluminum "peels" on the rocks which seems to allow for less damage overall and also allows you to clear the obstacle.
2. The overall weight of the wheel/tire is so much less which makes them so much easier to manhandle, lift, work on, etc.....

I agree with the two points you made. I have seen two rims crack during trips and only one was bad enough that it wouldn’t hold air. Ironically I was moving my spare (also steel) around today and wondered how much easier it would be if it was aluminum.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman
Many years ago I ran steel wheels and would routinely bend them to the point where air would leak out. I carried a large ball peen hammer and got pretty good at beating them back into shape. Eventually, switching to aluminum wheels convinced me that was the way to go. Yes, they would get gouged and scratched, but a Dremel tool and assortment of bits solved that problem. Only once after that did I lose a bead, which was the result of binding a tire and turning the wheel.
I feel that way now with the steel ones haha. I’ve gotten pretty good bending them strait again. Lucky for me none of them have been bad enough to leak or break a bead on the trail.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Irun
I feel that way now with the steel ones haha. I’ve gotten pretty good bending them strait again. Lucky for me none of them have been bad enough to leak or break a bead on the trail.
My issue was usually because I'd run it down to 8 - 10 psi. If I went up to 12 - 15 psi it wasn't as big a deal, but I gave up traction.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lax22
So I want to shed some weight from the TJ. The biggest areas where I can see doing that is removing as much of the Current Smittybuilt armor as I can and replace it with aluminum. I want to wait until savvy restocks their parts so I can do rockers and corners at the same time. In the mean time, where can I get the most bang for my buck weight wise.

I know tires and aluminum rims could help me a lot. Also, I already have UCF aluminum under armor, a savvy aluminum rear gas tank skid, and I’m not running a back seat. I was planning on removing the rear Smittybuilt fenders and replacing them with some stock TJ flares and thought about switching to a synthetic winch line for some quick wins. I was also looking at a few front fender options and almost pulled the trigger on some MCEs, but I would need new inner fenders since mine are cut for the Smittybuilt ones currently on the Jeep. I thought about switching to aluminum lower control like arms, but would there be much gain there beyond better performance?

What weight saving changes have you guys and gals made? Open to thoughts and suggestions.
 
Last edited:
Sounds like you pretty much got it covered. Looks like you are running soft top, soft doors, and no spare. Other than what you already mentioned above, just make sure you keep the cargo weight down. I used to carry all kinds of tools and spare parts in my jeep when wheeling, but now I just take the basics and leave most everything at the trailer. It made a big difference. When we go out for a few days and camp on the trail, I take much more and I can tell a huge difference.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lax22
So I want to shed some weight from the TJ. The biggest areas where I can see doing that is removing as much of the Current Smittybuilt armor as I can and replace it with aluminum. I want to wait until savvy restocks their parts so I can do rockers and corners at the same time. In the mean time, where can I get the most bang for my buck weight wise.

I know tires and aluminum rims could help me a lot. Also, I already have UCF aluminum under armor, a savvy aluminum rear gas tank skid, and I’m not running a back seat. I was planning on removing the rear Smittybuilt fenders and replacing them with some stock TJ flares and thought about switching to a synthetic winch line for some quick wins. I was also looking at a few front fender options and almost pulled the trigger on some MCEs, but I would need new inner fenders since mine are cut for the Smittybuilt ones currently on the Jeep. I thought about switching to aluminum lower control like arms, but would there be much gain there beyond better performance?

What weight saving changes have you guys and gals made? Open to thoughts and suggestions.
I have smittybilt armor as well and when I can replace mine I will be going with genright over savvy mainly so I don’t have to guess and predict when I will get my parts. Genright also makes front fenders and savvy as far as I know does not. I’d rather have a full matching set that is designed to work together than a rocker guard and fender that may not fit quite right.

Also, I would recommend ditching those steel wheels for an aluminum beadlock. You’re at the level of wheeling that justifies them. I recently made the switch and it’s been a seriously great upgrade!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lax22
Agree with cargo and carrying too many tools. I need to get better at this for sure. I’ve started to keep more and more stuff at the trailer but still need to do a better job of packing for the trail.

Also 100% agree on the wheels. I need to keep an eye out for a good set. I have been wanting to get rid of my steel rims for some time now and each trip brings me closer to wanting to unload them. As it stands that will be a small investment given they will need to be 17s at a minimum and that means tires will be more. But gotta pay to play right.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TRE3TOP
E82FA320-2AD3-4CFE-A990-2CE5AD99E30E.png

Out of curiosity, Did anyone have experience running these ProComp wheels off-road and in the rocks? I have a set of 4 in black finish that are just sitting in the shed waiting for new tires.
 
I have been running those pro comps in flat black for a few years. I have cracked two but most likely problem with driver more than the wheel.
 
View attachment 313318
Out of curiosity, Did anyone have experience running these ProComp wheels off-road and in the rocks? I have a set of 4 in black finish that are just sitting in the shed waiting for new tires.
I had a similar wheel, the Mickey Thompson version and they were kinda soft. If I were I going wouldn’t buy a new wheel till you can get a beadlock. Raceline still makes 15” beadlocks if you’re trying to stay 15”
 
I had a similar wheel, the Mickey Thompson version and they were kinda soft. If I were I going wouldn’t buy a new wheel till you can get a beadlock. Raceline still makes 15” beadlocks if you’re trying to stay 15”
Just weighing my options. I will be needing new tires eventually and at that time I think I’ll be looking into a set most likely.
 
Out of curiosity, Did anyone have experience running these ProComp wheels off-road and in the rocks? I have a set of 4 in black finish that are just sitting in the shed waiting for new tires.
I've run these on two Jeeps. As was stated, they are on the soft side. The outside lip will get chewed up and, if you catch it just right, can crack/split. However, I've seen the same thing on other inexpensive aluminum wheels, so I can't say they are any worse. The good thing is they are cheap to replace and a rotary (Dremel like) tool makes quick work of cleaning up any sharp edges you may get. If you have a set, and aren't afraid to chew them up (which the black will show more), there's no reason not to run them.
 
Last edited:
Nice east coast rig! I need to get back gore. I have a Rausch trip planned for May!

I run some stock ravine wheels with 2 inch spacers. They are holding up OK. Have a few wheeling friends who run those pro comps with minimal issues. I believe they are cast aluminum wheels. Forged being the better option.

https://www.streetmusclemag.com/tec...e-between-cast-flow-formed-and-forged-wheels/
Bead locks can be mixed bag. They can cause leaking issues if you don't stay on top of checking the bead bolts. They are typically really strong and usually a forged wheel.
 
Nice east coast rig! I need to get back gore. I have a Rausch trip planned for May!
I've got my first wheeling trip this year scheduled for June at Rausch. Although if I sell the TJ, it may be the first time in 10 years that I go without a rig to drive. I'm not at a point where I'm willing to take the LJ out. It's just to nice and the first pin stripe will kill me! :(