Let’s talk about TDI diesel swaps

Tim_with_the_tj

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Has anyone done a 3.0 TDI diesel swap into a TJ? I know the smaller 1.9 TDI has been done and maybe the 2.0 TDI.

I’m not finding anyone with a 3.0 TDI swapped TJ when I search the web. Surely someone has done it by now?
 
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@RustyAutoholicGuy may have some insight.

OH Boy, I'm on my second diesel swap with the same Jeep Wrangler . . . SO long story there BUT that is not the question, but here is the answer.

The answer to your question about the 3.0l TDI is basically no. Now with that said you could get an adapter made easily enough but you would need an engine and transmission supplied to KubotaSwappers or your adapter guy to have the adapter made, the bigger issue is there is no tune/standalone wiring harness for the motor that I can find.

ALSO the TD Conversions are for the ALH and BEW engines only as far as I know.

Take it from someone who has been doing a diesel swap going on 3 years, having support for your engine is HUGE. Honestly both the 1.9l and 2.0l TDI engine are MORE than powerful enough for our TJs.

The Coty Built kit is designed for the BEW TDI diesel from a 2004 ~ 2005.5 Volkswagen with a TDI. It's a 1.9l engine with 100hp and 184ft/lbs of torque stock, I believe with a tune, turbo and injectors from Coty Built you get around 140hp and 252ft/lbs of torque.

I'm running an earlier ALH TDI in my swap now which is 90hp and 155ft/lbs of torque stock but I have a stage 1 tune which use stock hardware to get a boost to 110hp and 188ft/lbs of torque. I can go much higher with injectors and a bigger turbo.

With these tiny diesels you have to realize you are hitting peak torque around 1700~1800 RPM. So with the ALH that's 188ft/lbs of torque at 1800rpm and with the BEW that is peak torque of 252ft/lbs around 1700rpm I believe. On the 4.0l peak torque is at 3200rpm. Also with both motors you can get more power out of them with tunes, injections and bigger turbos which is well documented.

As for the adapter, I commissioned KubotaSwappers for an adapter. I'm running my ALH TDI with a Ford 6r80 6-speed automatic transmission. THAT BEING SAID, KubotaSwappers is now doing a 2-piece adapters and is about to have a TDI to Jeep adapter which wil work for both ALH and BEW TDIs as well.

I went with a company from Canada, Fast Forward Auto to get my tune along with a standalone wiring harness to make the swap easier as well. Since I already have the Ford 6r80 mounted, I just need to figure out motor mounts and I should be ready to go.

I realize that is more information then you were asking for but I hope it helps!

Thanks
Grant
 
OH Boy, I'm on my second diesel swap with the same Jeep Wrangler . . . SO long story there BUT that is not the question, but here is the answer.

The answer to your question about the 3.0l TDI is basically no. Now with that said you could get an adapter made easily enough but you would need an engine and transmission supplied to KubotaSwappers or your adapter guy to have the adapter made, the bigger issue is there is no tune/standalone wiring harness for the motor that I can find.

ALSO the TD Conversions are for the ALH and BEW engines only as far as I know.

Take it from someone who has been doing a diesel swap going on 3 years, having support for your engine is HUGE. Honestly both the 1.9l and 2.0l TDI engine are MORE than powerful enough for our TJs.

The Coty Built kit is designed for the BEW TDI diesel from a 2004 ~ 2005.5 Volkswagen with a TDI. It's a 1.9l engine with 100hp and 184ft/lbs of torque stock, I believe with a tune, turbo and injectors from Coty Built you get around 140hp and 252ft/lbs of torque.

I'm running an earlier ALH TDI in my swap now which is 90hp and 155ft/lbs of torque stock but I have a stage 1 tune which use stock hardware to get a boost to 110hp and 188ft/lbs of torque. I can go much higher with injectors and a bigger turbo.

With these tiny diesels you have to realize you are hitting peak torque around 1700~1800 RPM. So with the ALH that's 188ft/lbs of torque at 1800rpm and with the BEW that is peak torque of 252ft/lbs around 1700rpm I believe. On the 4.0l peak torque is at 3200rpm. Also with both motors you can get more power out of them with tunes, injections and bigger turbos which is well documented.

As for the adapter, I commissioned KubotaSwappers for an adapter. I'm running my ALH TDI with a Ford 6r80 6-speed automatic transmission. THAT BEING SAID, KubotaSwappers is now doing a 2-piece adapters and is about to have a TDI to Jeep adapter which wil work for both ALH and BEW TDIs as well.

I went with a company from Canada, Fast Forward Auto to get my tune along with a standalone wiring harness to make the swap easier as well. Since I already have the Ford 6r80 mounted, I just need to figure out motor mounts and I should be ready to go.

I realize that is more information then you were asking for but I hope it helps!

Thanks
Grant

It’s all about information at this stage for me so thanks. I read some of your build earlier (and why you switched to TDI) and watched one of your vids. Hope things go well for you from here on out.

Engine management is not my strong-suit. However, I do have a good understanding of what a tune is and does. I’ve owned vehicles with tunes.

In response to the issue of engine management and tuning for the 3.0 TDI, would someone not be able to just use the factory ECU and wiring harness from the donor vehicle? Let’s assuming using a manual transmission to simplify it some.
 
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It’s all about information at this stage for me so thanks. I read some of your build earlier (and why you switched to TDI) and watched one of your vids. Hope things go well for you from here on out.

Engine management is not my strong-suit. However, I do have a good understanding of what a tune is and does. I’ve owned vehicles with tunes.

In response to the issue of engine management and tuning for the 3.0 TDI, would someone not be able to just use the factory ECU and wiring harness from the donor vehicle? Let’s assuming using a manual transmission to simplify it some.

So the problem with this approach is you would have to bring over all the other "stuff" that is also controlled by the ECU as well. It's why I said having an engine where you can tune the ECU is so crucial.

When I got the tune for my ALH TDI I had the following items disabled/deleted in the ECU:
  • Warning for missing gauges
  • ABS
  • AC/Heat
  • Anti-Theft
  • Key Fob/Remote Lock/Unlock
You would have to transfer over all those items if you can't get someone to tune that 3.0l TDI engine.

Another thing to consider is the engine bays of our TDIs were designed for inline engines, I'm not saying you can't put a V configuration engine in, but it becomes very tight and cramped on the inside.

Another thing I just noticed looking into the 3.0l TDI is they seem to need a complete overhaul after about 200,000. miles.

It makes great power for sure and for it's power output it's light but I would recommend going with a BHW out of a 2004~2005 Passat. 134hp and 247ft/lbs of torque stock, but with just a tune you can get 160hp and 285ft/lbs of torque. With a turbo and injectors you can jump that much higher.

Thanks
Grant
 
So the problem with this approach is you would have to bring over all the other "stuff" that is also controlled by the ECU as well. It's why I said having an engine where you can tune the ECU is so crucial.

When I got the tune for my ALH TDI I had the following items disabled/deleted in the ECU:
  • Warning for missing gauges
  • ABS
  • AC/Heat
  • Anti-Theft
  • Key Fob/Remote Lock/Unlock
You would have to transfer over all those items if you can't get someone to tune that 3.0l TDI engine.

Another thing to consider is the engine bays of our TDIs were designed for inline engines, I'm not saying you can't put a V configuration engine in, but it becomes very tight and cramped on the inside.

Another thing I just noticed looking into the 3.0l TDI is they seem to need a complete overhaul after about 200,000. miles.

It makes great power for sure and for it's power output it's light but I would recommend going with a BHW out of a 2004~2005 Passat. 134hp and 247ft/lbs of torque stock, but with just a tune you can get 160hp and 285ft/lbs of torque. With a turbo and injectors you can jump that much higher.

Thanks
Grant

I clearly have a lot to learn about these things. For my understanding’s sake, what would happen if you attempted to run an engine like the 3.0 TDI without the ability to delete said items within the ECU tuning?

I have not compared the dimensions of that engine to well known V8 swaps, but I assumed it would fit within the TJ engine bay.

A complete overhaul at 200,000 miles for a Diesel engine seems kind of absurd. How does the longevity of 1.9 and 2.0 TDI engines compare to this?

I will look into the BHW from 04-05 Passat. Kinda off topic of TDI, but I’ve seen videos of a TJs somewhere in Europe with a BMW M57 diesel under the hood (3.0 Inline 6). Man, that thing was ripping up some muddy hill climbs like a monster. The engine even sounds mean as hell for a diesel. I have no idea how they bolted a manual trans and transfer case to it. Wish I could talk with them, but no reply

My goals are a little different than yours. I want to make 300-400 lb-ft with the low peak torque rpm of a Diesel engine. Fuel economy is a big bonus considering the small fuel capacity of a TJ. Carrying less fuel also helps keep the Jeep light. If I could get 20+ mpg on huge tires (long term plan is 40s) I would be happy.

Thanks for the help so far. I have much to learn.
 
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I am no where as knowledgeable about diesel swaps as Grant is but have been doing engine swaps for years.

To try and answer some of your questions:
If you tried to run a engine that had trouble codes being set it could cause the ECM to go into limp mode which means that it cuts power output and other things. I know you said you'd be going manual trans but if a ECM goes into limp mode it can affect how an auto tranny shifts.
It could also cause long term reliability issues if you ran it for too long with some trouble codes set. The only real answer to that would be to talk to a VW tech and find out what the ramifications are for those codes. You might also try searching around for VW tuners and find out what can and can't be modified in the ECM in the 3.0. If you tried this you'll also need to be wiring expert to figure out which wires can be deleted and then those that can't be what to do with them.

If you are wanting that much power have you looked at the Cummins 4BT engine? It's a heavy pig but makes good power.
The other ODD diesel engine swap is the Mercedes 5cyl that some are swapping into a JK. I don't know why you couldn't do it into a TJ.
 
I am no where as knowledgeable about diesel swaps as Grant is but have been doing engine swaps for years.

To try and answer some of your questions:
If you tried to run a engine that had trouble codes being set it could cause the ECM to go into limp mode which means that it cuts power output and other things. I know you said you'd be going manual trans but if a ECM goes into limp mode it can affect how an auto tranny shifts.
It could also cause long term reliability issues if you ran it for too long with some trouble codes set. The only real answer to that would be to talk to a VW tech and find out what the ramifications are for those codes. You might also try searching around for VW tuners and find out what can and can't be modified in the ECM in the 3.0. If you tried this you'll also need to be wiring expert to figure out which wires can be deleted and then those that can't be what to do with them.

If you are wanting that much power have you looked at the Cummins 4BT engine? It's a heavy pig but makes good power.
The other ODD diesel engine swap is the Mercedes 5cyl that some are swapping into a JK. I don't know why you couldn't do it into a TJ.

Yeah, I thought it might cause a limp mode scenario. I’m no wiring expert, but if I had a diagram I could eventually figure it out. I think the biggest challenge is like you said, figuring out what would need to be done. There’s always some value in not being the first one to try something, I guess. Without tuning support it’s probably not a realistic option. Without talking with any tuners, I wonder why there isn’t more support. I know some ECU formats are more challenging than others.

I think Grant’s suggestion of the BHW 2.0 TDI is a good one. With some mods and tuning, it should be capable of torque in the mid 300s. Dirtlifestyle Nate is making around those numbers with his 1.9 TDI, although I remember some comments from him about his EGTs getting too high at some point.
 
I am no where as knowledgeable about diesel swaps as Grant is but have been doing engine swaps for years.

To try and answer some of your questions:
If you tried to run a engine that had trouble codes being set it could cause the ECM to go into limp mode which means that it cuts power output and other things. I know you said you'd be going manual trans but if a ECM goes into limp mode it can affect how an auto tranny shifts.
It could also cause long term reliability issues if you ran it for too long with some trouble codes set. The only real answer to that would be to talk to a VW tech and find out what the ramifications are for those codes. You might also try searching around for VW tuners and find out what can and can't be modified in the ECM in the 3.0. If you tried this you'll also need to be wiring expert to figure out which wires can be deleted and then those that can't be what to do with them.

If you are wanting that much power have you looked at the Cummins 4BT engine? It's a heavy pig but makes good power.
The other ODD diesel engine swap is the Mercedes 5cyl that some are swapping into a JK. I don't know why you couldn't do it into a TJ.

Forgot to comment on the other swaps you mentioned. The 4BT is too heavy and too rough around the edges for me. I would rather have a common rail diesel with a little bit smoother manners, and I want to keep it light weight. I don’t know much about the OM617 Mercedes engine, but it’s an old one as well. Not sure it fits the goals I would be going for.
 
Yeah, I thought it might cause a limp mode scenario. I’m no wiring expert, but if I had a diagram I could eventually figure it out. I think the biggest challenge is like you said, figuring out what would need to be done. There’s always some value in not being the first one to try something, I guess. Without tuning support it’s probably not a realistic option. Without talking with any tuners, I wonder why there isn’t more support. I know some ECU formats are more challenging than others.

I think Grant’s suggestion of the BHW 2.0 TDI is a good one. With some mods and tuning, it should be capable of torque in the mid 300s. Dirtlifestyle Nate is making around those numbers with his 1.9 TDI, although I remember some comments from him about his EGTs getting too high at some point.

Anytime you are trying to push more power out of an engine your EGT's are going to increase. I've been playing with diesels now for a while and depending on what I'd done and was doing it can be a issue. My 6.7 in my 2008 Ram would hit 1500* when pulling Snoqualmie pass if towing my trailer. Or if I had my foot in the floor when I was feeling froggy. Keeping things within reason are the easiest way to keep your EGTs down. I haven't been following Nate enough to know what he's done up to this point.
 
Anytime you are trying to push more power out of an engine your EGT's are going to increase. I've been playing with diesels now for a while and depending on what I'd done and was doing it can be a issue. My 6.7 in my 2008 Ram would hit 1500* when pulling Snoqualmie pass if towing my trailer. Or if I had my foot in the floor when I was feeling froggy. Keeping things within reason are the easiest way to keep your EGTs down. I haven't been following Nate enough to know what he's done up to this point.

1500 degrees under the engine bay is no joke. Lol. Without rewatching the videos, I believe Nate has a mild cam, larger injectors, and a slightly larger turbo, with a “hot tune” from Malone. I know it’s not hot here in the PNW for most of the year, but I do wanna take the Jeep to Moab regularly in the future.

All this is just information gathering at this point obviously. I need to weigh the pros/cons of a diesel swap vs a V8 swap. The biggest con of a V8 swap that I see is fuel. I plan to drive this thing on the street some and I’d like to have a longer range than 200-250 miles. Even with a 23 gal tank from GenRight for example, by the time you’re near empty if averaging 12 mpg…that’s about 250 miles and you better be near a gas station. Purely speculation on my part since I don’t know the fuel economy I would get with a TJ on 40s (long term planning).

Add in the idea that I might want to run a 15 gallon tank to accommodate for a bigger rear wheelbase stretch and my desire to keep the tank under the Jeep. Now it gets challenging if you’re fueling a v8. You’re down to around 180-200 miles or less before you better be near a gas station. It’s not ideal if you wanna drive it to your wheeling spot, wheel, and drive home, etc. A diesel would surely have the advantage here.
 
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1500 degrees under the engine bay is no joke. Lol. Without rewatching the videos, I believe Nate has a mild cam, larger injectors, and a slightly larger turbo, with a “hot tune” from Malone. I know it’s not hot here in the PNW for most of the year, but I do wanna take the Jeep to Moab regularly in the future.

All this is just information gathering at this point obviously. I need to weigh the pros/cons of a diesel swap vs a V8 swap. The biggest con of a V8 swap that I see is fuel. I plan to drive this thing on the street some and I’d like to have a longer range than 200-250 miles. Even with a 23 gal tank from GenRight for example, by the time you’re near empty if averaging 12 mpg…that’s about 250 miles and you better be near a gas station. Purely speculation on my part since I don’t know the fuel economy I would get with a TJ on 40s (long term planning).

Add in the idea that I might want to run a 15 gallon tank to accommodate for a bigger rear wheelbase stretch and my desire to keep the tank under the Jeep. Now it gets challenging if you’re fueling a v8. You’re down to around 180-200 miles or less before you better be near a gas station. It’s not ideal if you wanna drive it to your wheeling spot, wheel, and drive home, etc. A diesel would surely have the advantage here.

The TDI swap had just started to become popular in the Suzuki Samurai when I did my V-8 swap and at that time I don't think anyone was even thinking about it for a TJ. Back then (2004-5) the 4BT was popular but not done often.

I think you have the WRONG info about V-8 swaps. I don't know what year your TJ is but with the Dodge magnum 5.2 V-8 your fuel mileage would be the same or better than what your 4.0 is giving you. Yes it isn't gunna be what a diesel would be but you can get 15 MPG or better once you stop putting your foot in the floor.
I never really paid attention to what I was getting but the guys I ran with who had 4.0's were burning about the same amount of fuel that I was with my 5.2. And I didn't have a good tune for my engine at the time so I'm sure I could have been getting better.
One of the reasons the 4.0 gets poor MPG is that it's straining to move the TJ between the larger tires and heavier armor plus all the other added stuff. So by going to the V-8 you aren't going to have your foot in the floor or 3/4 throttle as much.

Now my new engine isn't built for MPG but torque so we'll see what I get.

I had the GR 24 gallon tank in my TJ prior to my rebuild but I stretched the rear axle back so it wouldn't fit anymore. I sold it to @Vasq on here who lives up in Everett. I think he's decided to go a different direction and was selling it. I don't know if he has yet or not.
 
The TDI swap had just started to become popular in the Suzuki Samurai when I did my V-8 swap and at that time I don't think anyone was even thinking about it for a TJ. Back then (2004-5) the 4BT was popular but not done often.

I think you have the WRONG info about V-8 swaps. I don't know what year your TJ is but with the Dodge magnum 5.2 V-8 your fuel mileage would be the same or better than what your 4.0 is giving you. Yes it isn't gunna be what a diesel would be but you can get 15 MPG or better once you stop putting your foot in the floor.
I never really paid attention to what I was getting but the guys I ran with who had 4.0's were burning about the same amount of fuel that I was with my 5.2. And I didn't have a good tune for my engine at the time so I'm sure I could have been getting better.
One of the reasons the 4.0 gets poor MPG is that it's straining to move the TJ between the larger tires and heavier armor plus all the other added stuff. So by going to the V-8 you aren't going to have your foot in the floor or 3/4 throttle as much.

Now my new engine isn't built for MPG but torque so we'll see what I get.

I had the GR 24 gallon tank in my TJ prior to my rebuild but I stretched the rear axle back so it wouldn't fit anymore. I sold it to @Vasq on here who lives up in Everett. I think he's decided to go a different direction and was selling it. I don't know if he has yet or not.

What’s been your experience with mpg and the 5.2? You mentioned 15 mpg… is this highway at 70 mph or in what scenario?

I know most people probably don’t track mpg very closely in a vehicle like this, but it would be good to know for comparisons. I should also ask what size tires, axle ratio, and transmission you ran?

Thanks.
 
What’s been your experience with mpg and the 5.2? You mentioned 15 mpg… is this highway at 70 mph or in what scenario?

I know most people probably don’t track mpg very closely in a vehicle like this, but it would be good to know for comparisons. I should also ask what size tires, axle ratio, and transmission you ran?

Thanks.

Like I said I never tracked my MPG directly instead I was basing my consumption based on what the people I was running with were putting in their TJ's running a 4.0. We'd hit the trail for the day and then stop at a gas station before heading back to camp. Because I had a V-8 everyone was always interested in how much fuel I was burning compared to them.

The 15 MPG comment comes from others who did the V-8 swap over on the Jeep Forum.

https://tinyurl.com/49jeeya6
Some said they were getting better than the 15 MPG but I honestly can't say.

I was running 35" Toyo M/T's with 5.13 gears and a 44 RE automatic trans. When I went to 38" TSL SX tires I was having other issues with my engine so my fuel mileage had gone to SHIT at that point.
 
Like I said I never tracked my MPG directly instead I was basing my consumption based on what the people I was running with were putting in their TJ's running a 4.0. We'd hit the trail for the day and then stop at a gas station before heading back to camp. Because I had a V-8 everyone was always interested in how much fuel I was burning compared to them.

The 15 MPG comment comes from others who did the V-8 swap over on the Jeep Forum.

https://tinyurl.com/49jeeya6
Some said they were getting better than the 15 MPG but I honestly can't say.

I was running 35" Toyo M/T's with 5.13 gears and a 44 RE automatic trans. When I went to 38" TSL SX tires I was having other issues with my engine so my fuel mileage had gone to SHIT at that point.

I appreciate the info. My Jeep is an early 1997 (March 1996 production). It was not blessed with the 4.0, but rather the mighty 4 banger. I bought it recently, with the intention to motor swap it eventually. Working my way towards being better informed before committing.
 
I appreciate the info. My Jeep is an early 1997 (March 1996 production). It was not blessed with the 4.0, but rather the mighty 4 banger. I bought it recently, with the intention to motor swap it eventually. Working my way towards being better informed before committing.

OK you have the same model/year I do except that mine is a 01/96 production date. So be aware that the 01-03/96 builds have some small differences in wiring than later production models. And yep mine was a SE also which is why I did the V-8 swap.

Read thru my build thread on here and then the one over on Pirate for some insight into doing a V-8 swap and some of the pitfalls that come with it or really ANY engine swap.
 
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I clearly have a lot to learn about these things. For my understanding’s sake, what would happen if you attempted to run an engine like the 3.0 TDI without the ability to delete said items within the ECU tuning?

I have not compared the dimensions of that engine to well known V8 swaps, but I assumed it would fit within the TJ engine bay.

A complete overhaul at 200,000 miles for a Diesel engine seems kind of absurd. How does the longevity of 1.9 and 2.0 TDI engines compare to this?

I will look into the BHW from 04-05 Passat. Kinda off topic of TDI, but I’ve seen videos of a TJs somewhere in Europe with a BMW M57 diesel under the hood (3.0 Inline 6). Man, that thing was ripping up some muddy hill climbs like a monster. The engine even sounds mean as hell for a diesel. I have no idea how they bolted a manual trans and transfer case to it. Wish I could talk with them, but no reply

My goals are a little different than yours. I want to make 300-400 lb-ft with the low peak torque rpm of a Diesel engine. Fuel economy is a big bonus considering the small fuel capacity of a TJ. Carrying less fuel also helps keep the Jeep light. If I could get 20+ mpg on huge tires (long term plan is 40s) I would be happy.

Thanks for the help so far. I have much to learn.

Limp mode and various other headaches such as having to wire in the original 3.0l TDI key just so the ECU can see it.

So you could easily get 350+ ft/lbs of torque with the BHW TDI engine with a tune, injectors and an upgraded turbo.

As for the reliability, an inline 4 cylinder engine is going to be simpler than a V bank engine. The ALH, BEW and BHW are all very reliable.

If you want that kind of power check out the Mercedes OM606, it's an inline-6 cylinder that can make GOOBs of power as well. It will also spin pretty high as well in terms of RPM.

It will also come down to gearing and your transmission as well.


I am no where as knowledgeable about diesel swaps as Grant is but have been doing engine swaps for years.

To try and answer some of your questions:
If you tried to run a engine that had trouble codes being set it could cause the ECM to go into limp mode which means that it cuts power output and other things. I know you said you'd be going manual trans but if a ECM goes into limp mode it can affect how an auto tranny shifts.
It could also cause long term reliability issues if you ran it for too long with some trouble codes set. The only real answer to that would be to talk to a VW tech and find out what the ramifications are for those codes. You might also try searching around for VW tuners and find out what can and can't be modified in the ECM in the 3.0. If you tried this you'll also need to be wiring expert to figure out which wires can be deleted and then those that can't be what to do with them.

If you are wanting that much power have you looked at the Cummins 4BT engine? It's a heavy pig but makes good power.
The other ODD diesel engine swap is the Mercedes 5cyl that some are swapping into a JK. I don't know why you couldn't do it into a TJ.

Thank you @Wildman you bring up a good point, as far as I know, all the 3.0l TDI comes with automatic which means you would have to figure out how to disable that portion of the ECU as well.

The 4BT is WAY too big and heavy for the TJ Wrangler. It's 782lbs and will rattle the fillings out of your mouth as well.


@TJ_Tim the other thing to consider is swapping to another transmission like the Ford 6r80, it's not cheap, but it's what I'm going to be running. Granny low first gear of 4.17:1 and it has two over drives as well, a .86:1 5th gear and .69:1 6th gear, this will vastly improve the fuel economy from your engine, and with the low first gear as well you will be able to easily move your bigger wheels and tires without having to have the 400ft/lbs of torque.

If anything check out the OM606, from what you are talking about that might be the motor for your for your goals.

One last thought for you though, I'm going to swap my Jeep Liberty CRD (Common Rail Diesel) turbo diesel drivetrain into my LJ Rubicon after I finish my current swap. I've done all the upgrades and fixes to the motor already and it's 190hp and 330ft/lbs of torque with a 454rfe automatic transmission as well. The weird thing is my Liberty weighs a little over 1200lbs more than my LJ Rubicon. That 330ft/lbs of torque made that entire Liberty move! It was a blast to drive, but having it in a LJ Rubicon is going to be so much more fun as it weighs so much less.

Thanks
Grant
 
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OK you have the same model/year I do except that mine is a 01/96 production date. So be aware that the 01-03/96 builds have some small differences in wiring than later production models. And yep mine was a SE also which is why I did the V-8 swap.

Read thru my build thread on here and then the one over on Pirate for some insight into doing a V-8 swap and some of the pitfalls that come with it or really ANY engine swap.

I did not know these early 96 production TJs had wiring differences. Thanks for the heads up. You might have one of the first TJs off the line. I’ll check out your build thread and I assume your screen name on Pirate is the same.
 
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Thank you @Wildman you bring up a good point, as far as I know, all the 3.0l TDI comes with automatic which means you would have to figure out how to disable that portion of the ECU as well.

The 4BT is WAY too big and heavy for the TJ Wrangler. It's 782lbs and will rattle the fillings out of your mouth as well.


@TJ_Tim the other thing to consider is swapping to another transmission like the Ford 6r80, it's not cheap, but it's what I'm going to be running. Granny low first gear of 4.17:1 and it has two over drives as well, a .86:1 5th gear and .69:1 6th gear, this will vastly improve the fuel economy from your engine, and with the low first gear as well you will be able to easily move your bigger wheels and tires without having to have the 400ft/lbs of torque.

If anything check out the OM606, from what you are talking about that might be the motor for your for your goals.

One last thought for you though, I'm going to swap my Jeep Liberty CRD (Common Rail Diesel) turbo diesel drivetrain into my LJ Rubicon after I finish my current swap. I've done all the upgrades and fixes to the motor already and it's 190hp and 330ft/lbs of torque with a 454rfe automatic transmission as well. The weird thing is my Liberty weighs a little over 1200lbs more than my LJ Rubicon. That 330ft/lbs of torque made that entire Liberty move! It was a blast to drive, but having it in a LJ Rubicon is going to be so much more fun as it weighs so much less.

Thanks
Grant

I know the 4BT is a heavy PIG and I think I said that when I posted about it. But it is an OPTION even if not a great one. I'm also a Cummins fan BIG time since I use to work on them and have owned more than a few 5.9 & 6.7 trucks.

When I was in Iraq in 2004 I talked about finding a GC or Liberty CRD engine to swap into my TJ. Of course one of the mags had just featured a TJ with the swap done.

I did not know these early 96 production TJs had wiring differences. Thanks for the heads up. You might have one of the first TJs off the line. I’ll check out your build thread and I assume your screen name on Pirate is the same.

I only learned about wiring differences a few years ago myself.

The link to the Pirate build is in my signature at the bottom of my posts. I had never paid any attention to the build date on mine until I came across this info about the wiring issues.

I'm going to be building a new wiring harness for my swap since the current one I have has some issues.

Sorry for derailing your thread away form TDI swap info. I just wanted to set the info correct about possible MPG from a V-8 swap.
If you take a TJ with a 4.0 and add heavy Dana 60 axles and 37"+ sized tires think about what your MPG might be.... So when you think about doing a diesel swap or V-8 swap I think you first have to have in mind what your final goal for your rig it.
When I built mine the first time I said that I wouldn't be going larger than a 35-36" size tire. Then after I got a wild hair up my ass and decided I wanted Hummer dual beadlock wheels which meant that I had to get new tires. And when looking at TSL SX tires I decided to try out the 38x12.5x16.5. I honestly like wheeling on them better than the 35" tires.
But my point is that you need to have in mind just how large a tire you're gunna go to which IMO should help decide which engine you go with.

My TJ is a heavy PIG and weighs over 5K lbs. so MPG isn't really something I'm too worried about except when selecting a fuel tank/cell. And I won't settle for anything less than 19 gallon.
 
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