Locker pump relocation parts list

tomtaylz

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Anyone or their factory rubicon locker pumps recently and have a list of parts they used/online store links to said parts?

Hoping to move my pumps from the Transfer case skid to the abs tray to free up room when doing the tummy tuck and to have them more protected from the elements
 
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Great post. I need the same list as well, because I’m about to do the same thing to mine.
 
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I re-used the OE mount they were on when the factory mounted them on the tcase skidplate. I used some tinsnips to trim some of the length off but that's it. Being able to mount the pumps using the same rubber mounts is a great additional benefit to using the OE mount.

LockerCompressors.jpg
 
So when doing this, do the wires (aside from the vacuum tubing) need to be extended, or is there a way to do it without extending the wires themselves?
 
I completely rewired mine to no longer use the overly complex factory locker switch. Mine is nothing but a pair of on-off switches protected by a fuse for each compressor. Like wiring a 12 volt light bulb. The pumps automatically shut themselves off when the correct pressure is reached or back on if there's a leak to maintain pressure.

You just need one longer rubber hose to connect to the rear locker, any auto parts or hardware store carries it. The front locker's hose can easily be rerouted up to the new compressor location.

Easy-peasy.

Locker Switches 2.JPG
 
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I completely rewired mine to no longer use the overly complex factory locker switch. Mine is nothing but a pair of on-off switches protected by a fuse for each compressor. Like wiring a 12 volt light bulb. The pumps automatically shut themselves off when the correct pressure is reached or back on if there's a leak to maintain pressure.

You just need one longer rubber hose to connect to the rear locker, any auto parts or hardware store carries it. The front locker's hose can easily be rerouted up to the new compressor location.

Easy-peasy.

View attachment 72200

This is really what I need to do. That factory locker switch and the little dance you have to play with it to get them to engage is just overly complicated and stupid.

I like what you've done much, much better.

Do your locker lights in the instrument cluster still work?
 
Do your locker lights in the instrument cluster still work?
They flash continually when the lockers are engaged but I haven't bothered to come up with a circuit to make them go on steady. That would require faking the computer out to believe it was getting its usual 'engaged' signal from the locker position sensor inside the axle housing. Closing that sensor connection by itself generates an error signal that causes them to flash if the lockers aren't also engaged. Effing overly complex circuit if you ask me. I've kinda grown to like the locker lights flashing. Looks more impressive lol. At least that's what I keep telling myself. :)
 
They flash continually when the lockers are engaged but I haven't bothered to come up with a circuit to make them go on steady. That would require faking the computer out to believe it was getting its usual 'engaged' signal from the locker position sensor inside the axle housing. Closing that sensor connection by itself generates an error signal that causes them to flash if the lockers aren't also engaged. Effing overly complex circuit if you ask me. I've kinda grown to like the locker lights flashing. Looks more impressive lol. At least that's what I keep telling myself. :)

Actually, I would say as long as they are flashing, that's probably better.

In my mind, I think I would prefer them flashing. You know, that way you really won't forget to turn them off when you get back on the pavement!

I agree though. I've checked out that circuit and it is overly complex for something as simple as locker activation / deactivation. If I didn't know any better, I'd say a German engineered it. They are after all notorious for over-engineering everything.
 
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I completely rewired mine to no longer use the overly complex factory locker switch. Mine is nothing but a pair of on-off switches protected by a fuse for each compressor. Like wiring a 12 volt light bulb. The pumps automatically shut themselves off when the correct pressure is reached or back on if there's a leak to maintain pressure.

You just need one longer rubber hose to connect to the rear locker, any auto parts or hardware store carries it. The front locker's hose can easily be rerouted up to the new compressor location.

Easy-peasy.

View attachment 72200[/QU
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OTE]
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20170128_183456.jpg
 
I completely rewired mine to no longer use the overly complex factory locker switch. Mine is nothing but a pair of on-off switches protected by a fuse for each compressor. Like wiring a 12 volt light bulb. The pumps automatically shut themselves off when the correct pressure is reached or back on if there's a leak to maintain pressure.

You just need one longer rubber hose to connect to the rear locker, any auto parts or hardware store carries it. The front locker's hose can easily be rerouted up to the new compressor location.

Easy-peasy.

View attachment 72200

I was just thinking about your set up this past weekend, Jerry and wondering what you did for switches. What did you do with the old wiring under the Jeep? Thanks!
 
I mounted them somewhat similar as @jjvw. Only I used an old aluminum road sign. The pumps are still mounted on their rubber isolators. (Picture on post #53 in my build thread)
Wiring: Clipped the harness sockets by the transfer case and ran 4 wires up to the ABS tray in a loom and reconnected the sockets.
Tubing: Shortened the front and bought 13' of new tubing to run to the rear. Ran the intake air into the cabin thru the firewall and sealed.
Everything functions as factory. But the ability to engage the lockers in high range would be beneficial. (as long as you don't have an Oh Shit moment and bump the switch while flying down the highway)
 
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