Yes, I agree. Just looked like in the video the tires were not flexing much. I think I know it depends on the tire rating C; E; D and how stiff the sidewalls are. Does Air pressure make you hop like that ?
Long Arm Lifts vs. Short Arm Lifts
- Thread starter Stox5225
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Yes, I agree. Just looked like in the video the tires were not flexing much. I think I know it depends on the tire rating C; E; D and how stiff the sidewalls are. Does Air pressure make you hop like that ?
Oh yeah, the pressures I mentioned are more appropriate for Load Range C tires. D and E tires are much stiffer and need to be aired down more. And yes too much air pressure will reduce traction and it can allow the tire to break traction more causing it to hop/spin.
That hop might also be an example of the suspension loading and unloading, contributing to a momentary loss of traction before grabbing again. Look at the Pirate thread Jerry posted. The first several posts do a nice job of discussing this.
Mine, in a similar situation, will just hang on and calmly spin the tires. I've seen other Jeeps with custom long arms hop far more severely.
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I'm under just under 10 lbs on a 35x12.5R15 at each tire. From the side profile that the video takes, its hard to see the "bulge" at the bottom of the tire, but it's there.
I wonder if the one hump versus two hump debate will ever end.
I'm a believer in a good set up , and I think there may be a lot of ways to get there.
I'm a believer in a good set up , and I think there may be a lot of ways to get there.
Brianj5600
TJ Expert
I wheeled with a guy on 33s and a long arm. His LCAs were close to parallel with the frame at ride height and bent down at about the point were the factory frame bracket was. He didn't seem to have trouble with clearance on some big rocks or ledges when climbing. Where I had trouble with wheel hop, he cruised right up. He did have a triangulated 4 link with a truss which raised the UCA on the axle end.
I thought the LCAs would hit the frame, but the angle changes very little with long arms. He has 4" lift and 1" BL. Here's a picture on it stuffing the rear.
I thought the LCAs would hit the frame, but the angle changes very little with long arms. He has 4" lift and 1" BL. Here's a picture on it stuffing the rear.
LOL... IMHO there is no way the MC radius arm comes even close in design or performance to a Rough Country lift.... that’s just funny... unless you just think all radius arms are alike. I’ve seen the Lock N Load in action and its no joke.
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What problem did the LnL solve? Do RC radius arms tear off?
Regardless, that still only a single aspect in the discussion of arms. And it is one I did not bring up, either.
Being able to have the option of relieving the stress by going to a 3 link radius arm is a pretty nice IMO. I have no idea how the RC radius arm kit is. I’ve never had one and don’t know anyone’s who does
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The jounce bumper is squished against the bump stop extension almost to the cup. The tire has 1/2" to go before hitting the metal part of the inner fender, and is slightly rubbing the outer portion of the flare. I still have 3/4" of shock piston showing. I bumped to keep the tires out of the fenders. The right rear tire was just about off the ground, so there was not need to go further.
Long arms can drag more than mid arms can drag more than short arms. Compromises always exist. Hopefully the benefits will outweigh the compromises.
I'm not familiar with any MC lift besides replacement short arms, but I saw reference to a radius arm being good.
In no way put on a front radius arm. It is a lazy answer to put long arms on, and your front geometry suffers. Climbing ability is terrible, the front lifts away unless you make the radius arm like 15 feet long. Stick with short arms, or invest in the Savvy kit (or make your own midarm).
In no way put on a front radius arm. It is a lazy answer to put long arms on, and your front geometry suffers. Climbing ability is terrible, the front lifts away unless you make the radius arm like 15 feet long. Stick with short arms, or invest in the Savvy kit (or make your own midarm).
This is the Metalcloak Lock-N-Load long arm:
https://metalcloak.com/tj-lock-n-load-long-arm-suspension-system-4-5-6.html
Pass. Just like Rubicon Express's radius arm kit.
Here's the quote: "Fit ideally in to the limited space under the TJ Wrangler." I read that as don't want to design a kit that actually fits AND performs.
Hard pass. I can't believe they would make a radius arm kit nowadays.
But the Lock and Load!Pass. Just like Rubicon Express's radius arm kit.
Here's the quote: "Fit ideally in to the limited space under the TJ Wrangler." I read that as don't want to design a kit that actually fits AND performs.
Hard pass. I can't believe they would make a radius arm kit nowadays.
Pass. Just like Rubicon Express's radius arm kit.
Here's the quote: "Fit ideally in to the limited space under the TJ Wrangler." I read that as don't want to design a kit that actually fits AND performs.
Hard pass. I can't believe they would make a radius arm kit nowadays.
What does the "radius arm" refer to?
It uses the Lock-N-Load arms:
https://metalcloak.com/lock-n-load-replacement-upper-arm-for-radius-suspension-tj-lj.html
I don't know enough about this sort of thing to know how well those would or wouldn't work.
Single mounting point at the frame, spits into separation at the axle. No separate upper arms. Ford and Dodge trucks are like this. Fords have done this for a LONG time. But they are very flat and quite long.
They act as a very good sway bar on road, good road manners. But there is no counter acting force keeping from traction from pushing the front end up on climbs. Think full extension when you don't want it to. RE came up with it for easy install, and tons of flex. But they forgot the whole "proper geometry" thing, and the MC is no different from what I'm seeing.
And