Looking for advice on upgrading Dana 35 without spending tons of money

RK TJ

RK TJ

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Jul 28, 2019
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Colorado
I have a dana 35, with a warn full float rear axle with ARB locker conversion (non c-clip) with 35 inch tire. This was done a long time ago by the previous owner. Warn no longer produces this axle conversion and can’t find much info and or parts on the web.

I am looking for advice on how I can upgrade my axle without spending a crazy amount of $$$

Is it possible to purchase cromoly 30 spline floating axle shafts?

what other options do I have?
 
Why do you need to upgrade from what you have?

The options are; 30 spline "Super 35" kit which is 30 spline axles and some sort of locker; ARB, Detroit locker, etc.

What spline are the current axles?

If your set up is currently working I wouldn't change it.
 
RK TJ said:
I have a dana 35, with a warn full float rear axle with ARB locker conversion (non c-clip) with 35 inch tire. This was done a long time ago by the previous owner. Warn no longer produces this axle conversion and can’t find much info and or parts on the web.

I am looking for advice on how I can upgrade my axle without spending a crazy amount of $$$

Is it possible to purchase cromoly 30 spline floating axle shafts?

what other options do I have?
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Contact Warn Customer Service, they often still have parts for products they no longer sell. They had everything needed when I broke a front manual hub even though they no longer sell them.
 
Rob5589 said:
Why do you need to upgrade from what you have?

The options are; 30 spline "Super 35" kit which is 30 spline axles and some sort of locker; ARB, Detroit locker, etc.

What spline are the current axles?

If your set up is currently working I wouldn't change it.
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I have 27 spline axles. Why an upgrade?, all I've read is 27 spline/Dana 35 are "garbage" and not worth putting money into.

Since 30 spline chromoly shafts are 30%> stronger......I was wondering if I could keep my rear differential, ARB locker and current gear ratio but buy just the floating 30 spline axles and 30 spline locking hubs. Is this possible?
 
Well, I would go by your own experience over what you read. Now granted, stock 27 spline shafts with a locker and especially with 35's is asking for trouble if you wheel it very hard. You have only two real choices, go with the Super35 30 spline shafts, but you'll need a 30 spline ARB, but that is the strongest setup and most expensive, or you could upgrade to some degree with Revolution Gear 1541H axles shafts. Those are stronger than stock. By how much, I couldn't say.

When I regearded mine to 4.10, I went with Detroit Truetracs and those 1541H axles shafts.
 
RK TJ said:
I have 27 spline axles.

Since 30 spline chromoly shafts are 30%> stronger......I was wondering if I could keep my rear differential, ARB locker and current gear ratio but buy just the floating 30 spline axles and 30 spline locking hubs. Is this possible?
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People seem to be glossing over the fact you have a full float 35?

You would need new 30 spline outer hubs(if they even exist) as stated but also a 30 spline carrier which is your locker in this case so you cannot keep your current locker since it is a 27 spline.

You basically would just be building your axle from scratch again aside from your gearing, but remember there are different lockers for gearing size ranges.

Now why are you wanting to go this route? Are you breaking shafts on the full float conversion?

People refer to 27 splines as garbage don’t have a full float, idk how comparable the full float to the cromo shafts is but I assume cromo is stronger as it’s the popular route.
 
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Fughuert said:
People seem to be glossing over the fact you have a full float 35?

You would need new 30 spline outer hubs(if they even exist) as stated but also a 30 spline carrier which is your locker in this case so you cannot keep your current locker since it is a 27 spline.

You basically would just be building your axle from scratch again aside from your gearing, but remember there are different lockers for gearing size ranges.

Now why are you wanting to go this route? Are you breaking shafts on the full float conversion?

People refer to 27 splines as garbage don’t have a full float, idk how comparable the full float to the cromo shafts is but I assume cromo is stronger as it’s the popular route.
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I have not broken an axle yet but have blown apart two warn locking hubs though (right rear tire). Luckily I've been able to drive home by freeing up my rear hubs.

Im just trying to think ahead and prepare when and if the axle does break.

I want to research my best upgrade optionwhile maintaining my free floating axle and locker. Not sure this can happen since my locker only excepts 27 spline

I am not a hardcore wheeler. I mainly do overlanding trips with my young son, mixed in with some moderate obstacles.
 
Your options are limited if you want to retain the Warn hubs. If you decide to ditch them, you could run some 27 spline 1541h axles and see how it goes. Carry a spare just in case.
The other option is to go with the super 35 kit straight away. You should be able to recoup some dough by selling your current ARB and Warn pieces.
 
Thanks to everyone for their response.

I want to put this out there, though I’m sure I won’t get many responses......

Does anyone out there have personally experience or know someone 10> years ago who wheeled using my current set up?

There is a thread in this forum back in 2007. Someone posed the question about the upgrading to the warn Dana 35 full float kit. The responses were “don’t do it!”. With that said there were no “real world” experiences that would back up there opinions.

I would really like to hear if anyone had major issues or positives with the Warn Dana 35 full float axles
 
You know what sucks?...changing broken axles on the trail. You know what sucks a lot less?...swapping a blown up aluminum hub.

I like my fuse to be the easiest thing to change...and the warn hubs fit that bill. I'd leave it alone and carry a spare hub (or 2)
 
PatMc said:
You know what sucks?...changing broken axles on the trail. You know what sucks a lot less?...swapping a blown up aluminum hub.

I like my fuse to be the easiest thing to change...and the warn hubs fit that bill. I'd leave it alone and carry a spare hub (or 2)
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I have run Warn hubs on both of my TJs but I'd never consider them as a fuse. Warn doesn't consider them to be a fuse either.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
I have run Warn hubs on both of my TJs but I'd never consider them as a fuse. Warn doesn't consider them to be a fuse either.
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Well, If he's broken 2 hubs so far and no axles, I'd say that the axles are stronger than the hubs, which makes the hub the weak link...or the fuse. I like my weak link to be the easiest thing to change. This isn't a dig against WARN...I have the same hubs on my rig...and I hope they break before anything else in the front axle.
 
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