Looking for ideas and suggestions on 2006 TJ Rubicon upgrades

My 4" lift with a TT has to run 1310s. A 1350 would limit my suspension travel due to the less operating angle they have. Stick with 1310s, they are up to the job.

Ive never read anything bad about Tom Woods, Adams Driveshafts, or even Tatton. They have been doing driveshafts long enough that you can give them a measurement and they can build/ship it to you. I had my driveshaft built locally by a driveline shop.
Thats what I did with my front driveshaft. A local truck shop fixed it. It now has a course spline, that's supposed to be good. It costed as much as it would have if Id just ordered one.
 
Sounds Ike you will have a nice build. Are you upgrading shafts?
 
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Sounds Ike you will have a nice build. Are you upgrading shafts?
Im hoping not to have anything done on the front driveshaft,it was recently rebuilt and upgraded. Im expecting to definatly need a rear dc driveshaft. I need to make some decisions on it soon though. Id really like to have a new driveshaft on hand when the lift is installed and alligned.
 
I love that you have used that Rubi a lot and want to continue.


Good posts from experienced members.
 
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It's been a really good vehicle for me all around,and a lot of fun too.
your thread is a really good example that if someone will get one of these and take care of it and not change everything on it it will last and last and last.

my Rubicon looks really cool but I had to fix all kinds of aftermarket dilapidated crap on a Jeep that only had 20,000 miles... And I've seen mostly stock ones go forever.
 
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Go MetalCloak Highline, a2"-3" lift, a tummy tuck and keep that low centre of gravity, plus with less driveline deflection you get less stress on the driveline. And go 33s.

I like that Idea. My factory suspension is pretty worn and ready to replace. I thought about the metalcloak fenders and a 2"lift, Or original fenders and a more complete lift.
I ended up going with a Savvy 1.25 BL and Currie 4" shortarm with disconnects.
Ill see how that does for a while. I figure if I end up going crazy with it later I could go bigger or smaller pretty easy.

I wont be doing much more till funds allow. Ill be verry happy to get these parts installed and dialed in.
 
I sent that pic. to a friend, and he messaged back that the tape will never hold...lol
The difference in the 245 tire and a 35x12.5 is HUGE. It looks like it could eat the little factory tire for a snack.
This is gona be a big change. Brakes tires complete suspension driveline,.... I just hope I still like it when im done. Im concerned about making my jeep less capable but its gona run this way at least till I wear the tires out.

20200121_145534.jpg
 
I think the metalcloak is inbetween most tube fenders and highline fenders. They get more clearance than just about everything that dosen't cut the hood.

Tube>Stock>Metalcloak>MCE>AEV>GenRight Highline

The hood isn't always the immediate problem. And not all tire sizes or builds are restricted by the wheel opening.
 
Tube>Stock>Metalcloak>MCE>AEV>GenRight Highline

The hood isn't always the immediate problem. And not all tire sizes or builds are restricted by the wheel opening.
I was able to compress the jounce bumper before putting a tire into my metalcloak fenders when I had 35’s w/3.69 BS and stock height lift.
 
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If you install those quality parts, set them up correctly and don't like it, you're crazy. ;)


Thats what I hope, and it's also why I waited. I've wanted to do this just about as long as I've had the Jeep.
I think my biggest concern now is having enough low gear/power offroad or pulling. I think I might like the higher gear ratio on the road. Im running close to 3000 rpm at 70 with factory tire size.

Im liking that winch pretty good so far. Ive only mounted it and wound the rope up, but it pulled pretty nicely on a steep incline, Ive only run the old style harbour freight 12000 or commercial hydraulic winches to compare though.
 
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I thought i was ready to put on the lift,but It looks like I dont have enough parts to install it.

As I read the instructions there's shock mount relocation brakets required but not included. It looks like some people with various 4"lifts are able to trim coil buckets to clear the shockbody.

Can anyone conform of a fox 2.0 would work without waiting for shock mounts.

I havent done any tummy tuck yet and have a 1"mml thinking this would give me better pinion angles, and better position for the shockmount also.
I still can't afford to be without a vehicle a week so i gotta get my ducks in a row before turning wrenches.
 
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