Looking for Savvy tummy tuck installation tips on an Unlimited Rubicon

Sudo

Sudo

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 22, 2019
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Arizona
Looking for tips and/or lessons learned on installation of Savvy's tummy tuck on a TJ unlimited Rubicon?

Installation of Tummy tuck will go on the jeep that has a 4" spring lift, 1.25" body lift, 1" motor mount lift, short adj. control arms, double cardan driveshafts, savvy transfercase shift cable.

Thanks
 
1) Put the new exhaust hanger on before you install the cross member.
2) Make sure to check tub clearances and fix them before installing cross member.
 
If you need to cut the exhaust don’t drive to long before getting it fixed. The heat can melt the rear fender liner and plastic evap lines.
 
Kevin Q said:
1) Put the new exhaust hanger on before you install the cross member.
2) Make sure to check tub clearances and fix them before installing cross member.
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Thanks, how do I know how far up it needs to sit without installing cross member? Am I clearancing the tub no matter what? I thought that's what the body lift was for?

Appreciate the tips
 
Sudo said:
Thanks, how do I know how far up it needs to sit without installing cross member? Am I clearancing the tub no matter what? I thought that's what the body lift was for?

Appreciate the tips
Click to expand...
I didn't have to clearance mine, but many do. Make sure you have a nice drift punch to align the inner and outer C bolt holes.
 
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taylormade73 said:
I didn't have to clearance mine, but many do. Make sure you have a nice drift punch to align the inner and outer C bolt holes.
Click to expand...
I've got a couple punches. Not nice per se, but hopefully will work.

Other than the obvious, is the a tell tale on if I'll need to clearance before putting it all together?
 
Sudo said:
I've got a couple punches. Not nice per se, but hopefully will work.

Other than the obvious, is the a tell tale on if I'll need to clearance before putting it all together?
Click to expand...
Jack up the transfer case and then just hold the cross member where it will be mounted to the frame. Adjust the transfer case to where it would mount to the cross member. If you are hitting the tub at this point then you'll need to clearance. If so, lower case a little so you can put something like a large hex nut between case and tub then jack back up. This will dent the tub with the nut.

Repeat until you get enough clearance here and anywhere else needed. You'll want to inspect entire top of case to see if and where it touches your tub. I got lucky and mine didn't touch anywhere.
 
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taylormade73 said:
Jack up the transfer case and then just hold the cross member where it will be mounted to the frame. Adjust the transfer case to where it would mount to the cross member. If you are hitting the tub at this point then you'll need to clearance. If so, lower case a little so you can put something like a large hex nut between case and tub then jack back up. This will dent the tub with the nut.

Repeat until you get enough clearance here and anywhere else needed. You'll want to inspect entire top of case to see if and where it touches your tub. I got lucky and mine didn't touch anywhere.
Click to expand...
Fingers crossed, I'm hoping for the same.
Thanks for info.
 
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One last piece of advice. Don't tighten everything up until you make sure all the skid plate holes line up with the crossmember and rear support brace holes.
 
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Installing mine today. Not a LJ but is a Rubicon. Had to dent tub in two places and trimmed the square bosses that were touching.
 
In my LJ I had to dent the tub a bit (driver side of the tunnel), and trim around the cutout of the crossmember for the 3rd cat. One thing I’ve not fixed in the year and change of having it is minor interference with the front passenger upper control arm frame mount. It rattles a touch on colder startup, but otherwise doesn’t seem to matter all that much.
 
Any specific tools needed to make this job easier?

Sounds like there may be more that do have to dent their tub than don't.
 
tworley said:
Those with a 241 need to dent the tub.
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I got lucky and did not with my 241. However, I would have traded having to dent the tub for the blood, sweat and tears it took to get the outer C's over the frame and lined up with the inners, lol. I've never cussed so much in my life.
 
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Looking for suggestions here.

I'm on the part of installing the rear brace for the savvy transfer case skid. On fit check I have at least one interference issue.

20201124_182638.jpg


1. Exhaust tube where muffler (dynomax) attaches to output of Cat exhaust tube

Have others had this issue? If so, what did you do?

I'm thinking about putting a radial cut in the rear brace to clear the muffler tubing. Thoughts on this? Good or bad idea?

Other items in question or of note:

I haven't verified for sure but it looks like this rear brace will have to come off to drain the transfer case fluid. Does that sound right?

And, I've got a slight vibe at idle. There are two places that look close but aren't touching 1. passenger side front frame motor mount and 2. top of transmission bell housing to firewall tunnel. The gaps are small (~3/16") but they aren't touching. Not sure if at idle it is touching. Will look at that at some point.
 
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