Looking for steering upgrade options

[thuddles]

First off thanks to everyone for all of the awesome info on here!! My steering box has been leaking for years and i think it's finally time to replace it. Was going to get the Durango box from Napa Gonna do all the tie rods too so everything is new. Was planning on doing the ZJ tie rod conversion, but i thought it was odd that it only beefs up half of steering set up. Since i'm going to be replacing the box too is there some way to hook up a beefier drag link? is there a ZJ pit man arm conversion or something? Was looking at currie correct lynk but it seems a little pricy for the near same set up as stock. Crown steering reviews were crap so i was gonna go with AC Delco from rock auto, looking at $208 plus $25 shipping. for all new components.

Just upgraded my Dodge 2500 to a T steering. not sure why this isn't an option for jeeps? i'm guessing clearance issues? Overkill?

Trying to set up my jeep so i don't have to worry about it for some time. I don't do too heavy of wheeling but i want to get the thing ready

 

[Tob]

Not sure if you considered it, but there are seal kits available to buy so that you can rebuild your box instead of buying another. Much less money.

 

[Gollywomper]

There is not much stock about the Currie steering other than geometry. It is a pretty massive piece of steering. Sounds like a good time to upgrade to something that can handle the bigger tires you most likely are running with a lift. And it will maintain good handling characteristics. If your box does not have excessive play you might consider a seal kit.

 

[thuddles]

currently running 31's with plans for 33's, I'm looking for more of a plug and play kind of deal, i'm mechanically inclined but i don't know if I would want to tear apart a steering box, sounds like hours of headaches with my luck. Plus Durango has a larger bore so its better for larger tires right??

 

[rasband]

is there a ZJ pit man arm conversion or something? Was looking at currie correct lynk but it seems a little pricy for the near same set up as stock.

You don’t need to worry about the pitman arm (unless it’s dropped and the track bar’s isn’t). Having owned all 3 options within the last 2 years I can tell you the Currie is no where near stock (beyond the geometry). If you like to play in the rocks, it’s nearly a necessary upgrade. If you’re not a rock crawler then the ZJ would be fine. The stock drag link is a solid tube unlike the stock tie rod, which never should have ended up on an off-road vehicle.

I can’t speak to the steering box changes.

 

[thuddles]

You don’t need to worry about the pitman arm (unless it’s dropped and the track bar’s isn’t). Having owned all 3 options within the last 2 years I can tell you the Currie is no where near stock (beyond the geometry). If you like to play in the rocks, it’s nearly a necessary upgrade. If you’re not a rock crawler then the ZJ would be fine. The stock drag link is a solid tube unlike the stock tie rod, which never should have ended up on an off-road vehicle.

I can’t speak to the steering box changes

I'm running Metal Cloak control arms as well as front/rear track bar. Been on there for about 5 years. Is the currie reallllllyyyyy worth it?!?!? $350 extra??

 

[Gollywomper]

currently running 31's with plans for 33's, I'm looking for more of a plug and play kind of deal, i'm mechanically inclined but i don't know if I would want to tear apart a steering box, sounds like hours of headaches with my luck. Plus Durango has a larger bore so its better for larger tires right??

Heck if your box has no other issues than a leak you might try some of that snake oil leak stopper. Lol. Some have claimed good results.

 

[Tob]

currently running 31's with plans for 33's, I'm looking for more of a plug and play kind of deal, i'm mechanically inclined but i don't know if I would want to tear apart a steering box, sounds like hours of headaches with my luck. Plus Durango has a larger bore so its better for larger tires right??

I understand where you're coming from. When I replaced the leaky box in my previous TJ, I considered rebuilding with seals but didn't want to mess with that. I got a box from West Texas Off Road (the guys who make the Redneck Ram), then sent my box to them to waive the core charge. I'd recommend checking them out for a replacement rebuilt box.

https://www.westtexasoffroad.com/
Their website only shows the hydro assist stuff, but if you contact them I'm sure you can get a quote for a rebuild without the port and tap.

 

[Chris]

Buy once, cry once, trust me on that.

The Currie Currectlync is the gold standard.

 

[rasband]

I'm running Metal Cloak control arms as well as front/rear track bar. Been on there for about 5 years. Is the currie reallllllyyyyy worth it?!?!? $350 extra??

I don’t know how the CAs and trackbars are relevant to the steering, but whether or not it’s worth it is up to you. It was for me, hence why I’ve upgraded... twice.

 

[thuddles]

Heck if your box has no other issues than a leak you might try some of that snake oil leak stopper. Lol. Some have claimed good results.

All thats in the thing is Lucas Stop Leak, like 100% Lucas and still dripping i used some of that blue diamond stuff too but nothin......... been an issue for a few years now. But i don't have toooo much play in the steering, and again looking for plug in play. figured a new durango gives me a larger bore to support 33's and a 1/2 turn quicker turn?

If replacing the seals you have to remove the entire box right??

 

[Tob]

If replacing the seals you have to remove the entire box right??

Yes. It's not difficult to remove, so the only concern would be down time if you depend on the TJ as a daily driver.

 

[thuddles]

I understand where you're coming from. When I replaced the leaky box in my previous TJ, I considered rebuilding with seals but didn't want to mess with that. I got a box from West Texas Off Road (the guys who make the Redneck Ram), then sent my box to them to waive the core charge. I'd recommend checking them out for a replacement rebuilt box.

https://www.westtexasoffroad.com/
Their website only shows the hydro assist stuff, but if you contact them I'm sure you can get a quote for a rebuild without the port and tap.

I was looking at this site a few years back before i bought more snake oil. I'll check em out thanks for the referral

I don’t know how the CAs and trackbars are relevant to the steering, but whether or not it’s worth it is up to you. It was for me, hence why I’ve upgraded... twice.

they're not other than axel placement? maybe clearance issues? some one asked about track bar drop brackets witch i do not run... You said you upgraded twice? what was the first option you went with? why did you change?

 

[Gollywomper]

I don’t know if I have heard of anyone who was impressed with the darango box. I did read some reported turning radius being effected. Do some research on what reman companies have good reputations.

 

[rasband]

they're not other than axel placement? maybe clearance issues? some one asked about track bar drop brackets witch i do not run... You said you upgraded twice? what was the first option you went with? why did you change?

The original post context was the steering options. The stock pitman arm is fine assuming stock geometry (e.g. some lift kits include a bracket for either the pitman or the trackbar and not always both - the only time it makes sense to do either is if both are to avoid bump steer).

I had the OEM steering, which was weak. The hollow tie rod isn’t a good fit for a wrangler.

Then the ZJ steering, which basically just solidified the tie rod, but was still 1”.

Then the correctlync, which I think is 1.25 and is solid and heat treated (I believe).

Again, whether or not that’s worth it to you isn’t something I can say. At a minimum the TJ should have had the ZJ tie rod.

 

[SkylinesSuck]

I "upgraded" to a Durango box years ago and don't like it. The steering feel is heavy at slow speeds and twitchy at road speeds. I'm trying to convince myself it's sloppy now to justify some sort of actual upgrade, but like you, not sure what (box wise).

 

[Goatman]

As far as draglink what you have is fine if everything is tight. Tierod go to the ZJ upgrade. The stock tierod is scary thin for offroad use. If you never plan to leave the pavement I would still switch to the ZJ. If you are playing with rocks or banging over downed trees and such then the Currie parts make more sense. Maybe get the ZJ tierod and a spare. And if you are playing where you end up needing the spare then you know it's time for the Currie parts.

 

[jjvw]

Whatever you do, stick with the factory geometry if you are using factory axles.

 

[tworley]

The durango box uses bushings on the shafts since it was made for an IFS vehicle. A solid axle vehicle like our TJs dish out a lot more abuse and would benefit a box that uses bearings instead.

 

[thuddles]

I "upgraded" to a Durango box years ago and don't like it. The steering feel is heavy at slow speeds and twitchy at road speeds. I'm trying to convince myself it's sloppy now to justify some sort of actual upgrade, but like you, not sure what (box wise).

ok thanks for the update. Was just reading the bearing vs shaft, seems like i'll be going for that Sagnisaw on Amazon, free shipping if the box is tore up its going back....

As far as draglink what you have is fine if everything is tight. Tierod go to the ZJ upgrade. The stock tierod is scary thin for offroad use. If you never plan to leave the pavement I would still switch to the ZJ. If you are playing with rocks or banging over downed trees and such then the Currie parts make more sense. Maybe get the ZJ tierod and a spare. And if you are playing where you end up needing the spare then you know it's time for the Currie parts.

I guess that would still be cheaper than a currie and if i come down the line needing it in a few years it wouldn't look like it hurt the bank as much.....

The original post context was the steering options. The stock pitman arm is fine assuming stock geometry (e.g. some lift kits include a bracket for either the pitman or the trackbar and not always both - the only time it makes sense to do either is if both are to avoid bump steer).

I had the OEM steering, which was weak. The hollow tie rod isn’t a good fit for a wrangler.

Then the ZJ steering, which basically just solidified the tie rod, but was still 1”.

Then the correctlync, which I think is 1.25 and is solid and heat treated (I believe).

Again, whether or not that’s worth it to you isn’t something I can say. At a minimum the TJ should have had the ZJ tie rod.

But when you swapped from zj to currie did you break something or did you just want to get rid of the hollow tube drag link?? this piece concerns me too so im kinda leaning to the currie now.....