Looking for suggestions on a capable lift kit

jjvw said:
It's actually a really good starting point. Afterwards, you'll know more about what is going on than most do and you'll know where to make the next set of moves.
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So what price am I looking at for the coil spring spacers, probably the Savvy 1.25 inch body, TT, DC Driveshaft w/ SYE, and the bumpstops.
 
You're going to have to do that homework yourself. :)

Which tummy tuck, which shocks? I like to use cheap body lift pucks for custom length bump stop extensions. And I would encourage a super short slip yoke eliminator.
 
jjvw said:
You're going to have to do that homework yourself. :)

Which tummy tuck, which shocks? I like to use cheap body lift pucks for custom length bump stop extensions. And I would encourage a super short slip yoke eliminator.
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Alright I'll start researching haha
 
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jjvw said:
You're going to have to do that homework yourself. :)

Which tummy tuck, which shocks? I like to use cheap body lift pucks for custom length bump stop extensions. And I would encourage a super short slip yoke eliminator.
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So I did the math of everything for the lift plus the tummy tuck. And it's right at 2500. It's a lot but that was around the money I was originally going to spend on a suspension lift without the TT. So I'm getting the lift I was wanting plus the TT.
 
All that is including the savvy 1.25 BL, UCF skid plates (transfer case skid + engine skid plate), JKS front and rear track bars, teraflex rear lower shock relocators, Tom Woods DC driveshaft + Rubicon Express sye, savvy transfer case shifter cable, M.O.R.E 1 inch MML, and savvy rear upper control arms. Will still need to do testing on bump stops. Other than that how does that build sound?
 
If tires end up being the thing that restricts my up travel then I will get some spacers. If not then I'll just stick with the springs how they are right now. I might long into the future go to 35's. So if/when I go to 35's, that is when I will get longer springs to accommodate.
 
Calvin.8 said:
If tires end up being the thing that restricts my up travel then I will get some spacers. If not then I'll just stick with the springs how they are right now. I might long into the future go to 35's. So if/when I go to 35's, that is when I will get longer springs to accommodate.
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The front tires will almost certainly be the thing that restricts the travel. The rear shocks will be what limits the rear.
 
jjvw said:
The front tires will almost certainly be the thing that restricts the travel. The rear shocks will be what limits the rear.
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O I forgot about putting shocks into that. I was going to put in Rancho RS5000X shocks. that would put the price to 2,700. So does all of that sound good? Anything I'm missing?
 
jjvw said:
The front tires will almost certainly be the thing that restricts the travel. The rear shocks will be what limits the rear.
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And if my understanding is correct, I move the axle until something interferes. And i will buy extensions long enough to stop it right before it gets to the point?
 
Calvin.8 said:
And if my understanding is correct, I move the axle until something interferes. And i will buy extensions long enough to stop it right before it gets to the point?
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That's the idea. The bump stops should hit just before anything else does.
 
jjvw said:
That's the idea. The bump stops should hit just before anything else does.
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Sweet. Well thanks for all of the help!!! I'm going to be spending basically the same amount of money now but getting soooo much more out of it. Now it's time to start saving up!
 
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JMT said:
Here’s your dilemma between these two approaches in my thinking.

$$$$$

Once you go beyond 3” you are into a whole new ballgame. I guarantee you can run 36’s on a 2” lift if done correctly, and outwheel any rig in this forum that’s on 35’s. See CasterTroy build thread IH8MUD.

So if you go to 3”, which was your original thought, Teraflex, you can keep the factory CA’s, which are a very good design and save $1200 there. The 1-1.25” BL will increase your ability to run larger tires and less bumpstop, increasing articulation and shock travel. So you will be improving off-road capability. Plus the added MML will eliminate the need for a TCase drop, another off-road advantage. Plus, it sets you up for a TT down the line if you want, another great benefit.

If you really wanted to increase off-road capability, get a front lunchbox locker. That will be far more advantageous than CA’s.

If you wanted to spend more later, you could add MCloak fenders/flares and easily run 35’s on that lift. You’d be virtually unstoppable.

There is more than one way to skin a cat.
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You mean 3" total? Or 3 + the body lift?
 
Rob5589 said:
Body lift has no effect on either.

Here is a lift combo to consider: BDS or Pro Comp 2" coils, .75 spacer in front to level, Rancho 5000X 55239/55241, JKS trackbar in front, relocation bracket in rear, Savvy 1.25" aluminum body lift, ZJ tie rod conversion, properly set bumpstops, 1" JKS motor mount lift blocks.

That set up will net you about 3.75" which will work for 33's. It will also work on stock control arms and not need a sye/dc set up (unless you want to go ahead and do one)
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Pretty much what I've got planned lol, but ome springs.
 
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