Looking for suggestions on a capable lift kit

[derekmac]

Those will work just fine! Rough Country track bars are just track bars, so they aren’t going to affect ride quality at all. That’s a solid plan!

I was going to get an RC track bar until I read that different people had the tie Rod end break where it threads into the bar. The likely hood of that happening might be low, but I didn't want to take the risk. I saved a bit more coin and bought a JKS one.

 

[Calvin.8]

I was going to get an RC track bar until I read that different people had the tie Rod end break where it threads into the bar. The likely hood of that happening might be low, but I didn't want to take the risk. I saved a bit more coin and bought a JKS one.

Thanks, I will definitely keep that in mind

 

[Chris]

I was going to get an RC track bar until I read that different people had the tie Rod end break where it threads into the bar. The likely hood of that happening might be low, but I didn't want to take the risk. I saved a bit more coin and bought a JKS one.

Interesting! Dave from Jeep West puts the RC track bars on many of his builds. @psrivats has them on his TJ as well.

 

[sgtjdgelinas]

A bit unconventional but this thread the writer says you can get 3.75 inches in the rear by using caprice classic wagon springs by Moog.
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/more-unconventional-spring-lift-info-912302/?t=912302
And this next website claims using ZJ v8 coils will net 2.5 on a xj, which should translate to 3.5 on a TJ.
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Budget_Lift.htm
The part number for the springs are listed and are 60-80 bucks a pair new. Theoretically it’s a cheap way to get to 3.5 inches of lift.

 

[derekmac]

Interesting! Dave from Jeep West puts the RC track bars on many of his builds. @psrivats has them on his TJ as well.

I'm pretty damn sure it was the RC ones anyway. Maybe it was RE.... I'd say to definitely do some research before getting one. One benefit of the RC track bar is that it uses a common Moog tie rod end which is cheap and easy to find if it needs replacing.

 

[derekmac]

A bit unconventional but this thread the writer says you can get 3.75 inches in the rear by using caprice classic wagon springs by Moog.
https://*****************/forum/f9/more-unconventional-spring-lift-info-912302/?t=912302
And this next website claims using ZJ v8 coils will net 2.5 on a xj, which should translate to 3.5 on a TJ.
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Budget_Lift.htm
The part number for the springs are listed and are 60-80 bucks a pair new. Theoretically it’s a cheap way to get to 3.5 inches of lift.

ZJ V8 coils gave me 1" lift in the front of my TJ.

 

[Chris]

I'm pretty damn sure it was the RC ones anyway. Maybe it was RE.... I'd say to definitely do some research before getting one. One benefit of the RC track bar is that it uses a common Moog tie rod end which is cheap and easy to find if it needs replacing.

Could be! Either way, I've never run the RC track bars myself, I just knew that Dave loves to use them as they are pretty well known to be one of the least "interfering" track bars, and they have the common Moog tie-rod end like you mentioned.

I wouldn't recommend most RC stuff, but since Dave has had such good luck using them on a lot of his builds, I feel I can safely recommend them.

 

[Calvin.8]

I'm pretty damn sure it was the RC ones anyway. Maybe it was RE.... I'd say to definitely do some research before getting one. One benefit of the RC track bar is that it uses a common Moog tie rod end which is cheap and easy to find if it needs replacing.

Yeah I will probably go with RC track bar, even though it sounds like there is a small chance of it breaking its tie rod end, at least it would be a cheap fix. Will probably upgrade eventually to a JKS or currie, but as of right now RC will probably do the trick.

 

[Chris]

Yeah I will probably go with RC track bar, even though it sounds like there is a small chance of it breaking its tie rod end, at least it would be a cheap fix. Will probably upgrade eventually to a JKS or currie, but as of right now RC will probably do the trick.

Truthfully, I think you'll be find with the RC track bars until you upgrade. I suppose anything can break if you beat the piss out of it!

 

[Calvin.8]

Truthfully, I think you'll be find with the RC track bars until you upgrade. I suppose anything can break if you beat the piss out of it!

Well thanks so much for all of this!! I am looking at getting a winch and air compressor first, after that it'll be time to start saving up for the lift. Appreciate all the help.

 

[Chris]

Well thanks so much for all of this!! I am looking at getting a winch and air compressor first, after that it'll be time to start saving up for the lift. Appreciate all the help.

No problem, I'm happy to help in any way I can!

 

[Rob5589]

What brands would you suggest for the sye and CV driveshaft. Again, if I don't need to buy a more expensive brand I don't want to, but if it is recommended to put more money into it for this part I am ok with it.

I would buy the set up from Tom Wood, 4xshaft.com

 

[jjvw]

Isn't the problem with RC track bars breaking due them hitting the diff cover because they require bump stop extension?

 

[JMT]

That is a good idea to save money and that was in my head at one point, but I want to increase the capability of my jeep off road. And I feel like getting the control arms, springs, and shocks all together will be a definite upgrade over just my rough contry springs and shocks. Ya getting the rancho shocks would make the ride quality better, but it wouldnt really help with offroad capabilities, right?

Here’s your dilemma between these two approaches in my thinking.

$$$$$

Once you go beyond 3” you are into a whole new ballgame. I guarantee you can run 36’s on a 2” lift if done correctly, and outwheel any rig in this forum that’s on 35’s. See CasterTroy build thread IH8MUD.

So if you go to 3”, which was your original thought, Teraflex, you can keep the factory CA’s, which are a very good design and save $1200 there. The 1-1.25” BL will increase your ability to run larger tires and less bumpstop, increasing articulation and shock travel. So you will be improving off-road capability. Plus the added MML will eliminate the need for a TCase drop, another off-road advantage. Plus, it sets you up for a TT down the line if you want, another great benefit.

If you really wanted to increase off-road capability, get a front lunchbox locker. That will be far more advantageous than CA’s.

If you wanted to spend more later, you could add MCloak fenders/flares and easily run 35’s on that lift. You’d be virtually unstoppable.

There is more than one way to skin a cat.

 

[05 Blue Unlimited]

That is a good idea to save money and that was in my head at one point, but I want to increase the capability of my jeep off road. And I feel like getting the control arms, springs, and shocks all together will be a definite upgrade over just my rough contry springs and shocks. Ya getting the rancho shocks would make the ride quality better, but it wouldnt really help with offroad capabilities, right?

You seem bent on droping some coin and I won't try too hard to talk you out of it. However you did say you would not be doing any extreme wheeling as it's your daily driver.

Therefore I personally would not discount JMT's option out of hand. The only real issue you currently have is the tires are too large for your lift. To correct this you can drop to 32's or take his approach and do everything you state you want to do. IMO your current path takes you beyond your stated intent at a lot costlier solution.

 

[psrivats]

Interesting! Dave from Jeep West puts the RC track bars on many of his builds. @psrivats has them on his TJ as well.

Good to know. I'll keep an eye on it but for now it's working great and I'll worry about it if and when it breaks.

 

[Calvin.8]

Here’s your dilemma between these two approaches in my thinking.

$$$$$

Once you go beyond 3” you are into a whole new ballgame. I guarantee you can run 36’s on a 2” lift if done correctly, and outwheel any rig in this forum that’s on 35’s. See CasterTroy build thread IH8MUD.

So if you go to 3”, which was your original thought, Teraflex, you can keep the factory CA’s, which are a very good design and save $1200 there. The 1-1.25” BL will increase your ability to run larger tires and less bumpstop, increasing articulation and shock travel. So you will be improving off-road capability. Plus the added MML will eliminate the need for a TCase drop, another off-road advantage. Plus, it sets you up for a TT down the line if you want, another great benefit.

If you really wanted to increase off-road capability, get a front lunchbox locker. That will be far more advantageous than CA’s.

If you wanted to spend more later, you could add MCloak fenders/flares and easily run 35’s on that lift. You’d be virtually unstoppable.

There is more than one way to skin a cat.

I'm starting to grow on your idea more. Except the only thing is I still want to replace is the Rough Country springs along with the shocks. And since I want to replace the springs anyway, might as well get springs that will lift my jeep up some more. And I don't think I'm wanting to go to 35's anytime soon, trying to just stay with 33's for now. So I'm thinking maybe get some 3-3.5 inch springs with the Rancho shocks, then get either a 0.5-1 inch body lift to get me anywhere from 3.5 to 4 inches. And then an MML. How does that sound?

 

[Calvin.8]

You seem bent on droping some coin and I won't try too hard to talk you out of it. However you did say you would not be doing any extreme wheeling as it's your daily driver.

Therefore I personally would not discount JMT's option out of hand. The only real issue you currently have is the tires are too large for your lift. To correct this you can drop to 32's or take his approach and do everything you state you want to do. IMO your current path takes you beyond your stated intent at a lot costlier solution.

Ya I'm starting to sway towards his idea just a little bit.

 

[Rob5589]

A 3.5" spring is too long for stock control arms and driveline, regardless of mml.

 

[Calvin.8]

Here’s your dilemma between these two approaches in my thinking.

$$$$$

Once you go beyond 3” you are into a whole new ballgame. I guarantee you can run 36’s on a 2” lift if done correctly, and outwheel any rig in this forum that’s on 35’s. See CasterTroy build thread IH8MUD.

So if you go to 3”, which was your original thought, Teraflex, you can keep the factory CA’s, which are a very good design and save $1200 there. The 1-1.25” BL will increase your ability to run larger tires and less bumpstop, increasing articulation and shock travel. So you will be improving off-road capability. Plus the added MML will eliminate the need for a TCase drop, another off-road advantage. Plus, it sets you up for a TT down the line if you want, another great benefit.

If you really wanted to increase off-road capability, get a front lunchbox locker. That will be far more advantageous than CA’s.

If you wanted to spend more later, you could add MCloak fenders/flares and easily run 35’s on that lift. You’d be virtually unstoppable.

There is more than one way to skin a cat.

And I thought control arms were very recommended once you get above 3 inches.