Looking for suggestions on a capable lift kit

So body lifts don't affect control arms or the driveline?

Body lift has no effect on either.

Here is a lift combo to consider: BDS or Pro Comp 2" coils, .75 spacer in front to level, Rancho 5000X 55239/55241, JKS trackbar in front, relocation bracket in rear, Savvy 1.25" aluminum body lift, ZJ tie rod conversion, properly set bumpstops, 1" JKS motor mount lift blocks.

That set up will net you about 3.75" which will work for 33's. It will also work on stock control arms and not need a sye/dc set up (unless you want to go ahead and do one)
 
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And I thought control arms were very recommended once you get above 3 inches.
Yes, stay at 3” SL. Then your stock CA’s will be fine. Here are a few 3” choices:

BDS
Teraflex
JKS
Savvy
Zone
ProComp
 
Or, if you want add a spacer to your current springs to get to 3”, then a 1”BL or 1.25”. The bottom line is these combinations all allow you to save a ton of money + accomplish what you really want to do AND be set up for any future further improvements. I really suggest the front lunchbox locker. I prefer the invisible PowerTrax NoSlip. That is not overboard expensive, you can DIY and have a great build. My build is very similar and I’m very happy, not just with the capability, but with the ability to go further.
C2DE5144-63DF-4769-B1B5-BDFA313E0996.jpeg
 
Wonder why you want to change springs? If you add a 1.25 BL to you 2.5 springs you get to 3.75 which is great for the 33's you have.
Well I am eventually going to want to upgrade springs and control arms eventually. All the things the body lifts keep me from having to replace, are ultimately things I want to upgrade anyway.
 
Yes, stay at 3” SL. Then your stock CA’s will be fine. Here are a few 3” choices:

BDS
Teraflex
JKS
Savvy
Zone
ProComp
I think this setup that you are recommending is really good. But the reason I am ok with doing a coil spring lift on it is because a lot of the things that the body lift is keeping me from having to change, are really things I want to upgrade anyway. Such as the control arms and getting the sye and CV driveshaft. I do like the idea tho of getting maybe a 3 inch coil spring lift then add like a 0.75 body lift so I can do a TT. And also keep my 33's at the same time. I am ok with spending some money. I am mostly just concerned with making sure the expensive stuff is going towards the right parts, instead of something such as the track bars, which I can get away with being cheap for now.
 
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Or, if you want add a spacer to your current springs to get to 3”, then a 1”BL or 1.25”. The bottom line is these combinations all allow you to save a ton of money + accomplish what you really want to do AND be set up for any future further improvements. I really suggest the front lunchbox locker. I prefer the invisible PowerTrax NoSlip. That is not overboard expensive, you can DIY and have a great build. My build is very similar and I’m very happy, not just with the capability, but with the ability to go further.
View attachment 63935
By the way I'm not trying to ignore the things you are saying and trying to be stubborn. I've just been looking at lifts for awhile and have always been looking up on mostly coil spring lifts and staying away from body lifts. I've just always had that in mind for doing my lift, and this is a whole different route to take as far as putting a lift on my jeep.
 
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I think this setup that you are recommending is really good. But the reason I am ok with doing a coil spring lift on it is because a lot of the things that the body lift is keeping me from having to change, are really things I want to upgrade anyway. Such as the control arms and getting the sye and CV driveshaft. I do like the idea tho of getting maybe a 3 inch coil spring lift then add like a 0.75 body lift so I can do a TT. And also keep my 33's at the same time. I am ok with spending some money. I am mostly just concerned with making sure the expensive stuff is going towards the right parts, instead of something such as the track bars, which I can get away with being cheap for now.
I understand. Some don’t like the looks of a BL and would prefer to do it all via SL. This is a personal build preference. But I think a small BL is hard to avoid. It has so many advantages.

I appreciate your concern of possibly offending me, but don’t worry about me! I just saw another possible option and shared,

Going the SL+BL route, you get to the SYE and DC and new CA’s when you do a TT. That’s what I’m looking at next year if I can get my Dana 44 and gears installed soon. All the best in improving the capability of your rig .
 
@JMT gives great advice, I just went thru the conundrum of springs and ended up with the 3" JKS JSPEC springs and the highly recommended rancho 5000X shocks. Compared to stock springs and shocks...it rides like a dream. Keep in mind my daily is a 3/4 ton truck so my opinion is likely jaded.

I have a lean toward the passenger side, so either that needs shimmed out or I live with it. (It also leaned when it was stock) Front to back rake is very close to level.

Adding a 1.25" Body lift & 1" MM lift allowed raising the gas tank and the transfer case skid. (In stock configuration, the "mud scoop" transfer case skid was the majority of my hang ups)

It's outlined in my "bolt on" build thread.
 
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I understand. Some don’t like the looks of a BL and would prefer to do it all via SL. This is a personal build preference. But I think a small BL is hard to avoid. It has so many advantages.

I appreciate your concern of possibly offending me, but don’t worry about me! I just saw another possible option and shared,

Going the SL+BL route, you get to the SYE and DC and new CA’s when you do a TT. That’s what I’m looking at next year if I can get my Dana 44 and gears installed soon. All the best in improving the capability of your rig .
So I think I might end up with a small BL like you recommended, but also upgrade the springs. I really just dont want to stay with RC parts if I can help it. And plus i think I will still upgrade the control arms, that's something I really wanted on my jeep. But the ability to do the TT sounds really good, so I think i will take your advice to do a BL, but also upgrade with 3 inch springs because I want as little as body lift as possible. But I'm not really sure what all goes into a TT. Like what kind of parts are required for a TT, and is there a minimum amount of BL I need to have to do it?
 
To do a TT you need:
SYE
DC
New TCase skid
Rear CA’s

The amount of TT you can do is related proportionally to the amount of BL you do. Rokmen makes a 0.5” BL and you can do an ~1.5” TT all the way up to a 1.25” BL and you can do up to a 3.75” TT (flat, with some exhaust modifications and possible tub indentations).
 
To do a TT you need:
SYE
DC
New TCase skid
Rear CA’s

The amount of TT you can do is related proportionally to the amount of BL you do. Rokmen makes a 0.5” BL and you can do an ~1.5” TT all the way up to a 1.25” BL and you can do up to a 3.75” TT (flat, with some exhaust modifications and possible tub indentations).
So if I was to have a 0.75-1 inch BL, what amount of TT can I do without having to make serious modifications
 
That's what I'm getting at. Most don't notice a small body lift when they aren't fixating on it.

A small body lift is a tremendously helpful thing.
Even when you mentioned it I still hardly recognized a BL haha.