Looking for thoughts and advice on axle swap and re-gear

Let me know what you end up looking for as far as brackets. Have basically full Artec Dana 30/Dana 44 set as I was going to rebuild an axle then changed directions so happy to make you a deal.

Not to push you further down rabbit hole, and shouldn’t be needed for 31s, but as you are already buying new driveshaft might think about SYE (and 33s when your tires wear out LOL). Better than deciding want 33s in a year and have to redo this one or buy another driveshaft.

This forum is great for advice and spending other people’s money so trying to make sure we are doing both for you! 😉
 
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sourbluff said:
Not to push you further down rabbit hole...
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Isn't that the worst thing about rabbit holes though? There's seldom a sign posted at the entrance indicating how deep or expensive it's gonna get.

PSA: Avoid rabbit holes. Plan out your build from start to finish before you dive in.
 
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sourbluff said:
If you decide to keep the D44s (prob what I would do as future proofs rig but at great price) I’ll make you good deal on these https://www.artecindustries.com/crbrackets-tj Again bit of overkill but would provide easy way for you to address the mounts you need to return to stock.
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I would put in those 44's and run them. you already bought them and the experience of installing those will teach you a lot, also going back to the stock knuckles will also teach you a few basics on axle work. Knuckes should swap back from your stock ones, just install new unit bearings and brake pads and done for the front. Rear discs requires a new master cylinder and proportioning valve.. not hard, just time.
 
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astjp2 said:
Rear discs requires a new master cylinder and proportioning valve...
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Rear disc brakes do not require either of those changes. Assuming the axle includes all the brake plumbing, the only thing you need are different parking brake cables.
 
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astjp2 said:
10 psi holding pressure for durms, 2 for discs, caused by the master/porportioning combo valve
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factory drum to factory disc, no valve or master is needed. This is made clear by the fact that Jeep shipped them with the exact same parts to drive both setups, the only difference being a new combo valve was added for the long wheelbase in 2004. All short wheelbases receive the same master and same valve despite their rear brake setup. Seems to be a pretty damn good setup for the factory discs.
 
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astjp2 said:
10 psi holding pressure for durms, 2 for discs, caused by the master/porportioning combo valve
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100% bullshit. The 10 psi Residual Pressure and Residual Pressure Valves are ignorant information foisted upon the ignorant.

Take any rear drum wheel cylinder. Multiply the surface area of the piston by the PSI to get the force acting against the return springs. On a TJ that is about 15 pounds trying to move a return spring that is approaching 100 lbs. Never gonna happen. That and you can easily test how much pressure is being held against either end simply by opening the bleed screw. Unless something is defective in the system, the fluid just dribbles out at a rate even less than 2 psi would produce.

There is no mechanism for residual pressure in any TJ master and or combo valve. The only pressure at rest is the weight of the fluid in the line or hydrostatic pressure.
 
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astjp2 said:
Rear discs requires a new master cylinder
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Buyer's guide for master cylinders. Note there is not even a 4 cylinder versus 6 cylinder distinction.
1635174175136.png
 
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astjp2 said:
I would put in those 44's and run them. you already bought them and the experience of installing those will teach you a lot, also going back to the stock knuckles will also teach you a few basics on axle work. Knuckes should swap back from your stock ones, just install new unit bearings and brake pads and done for the front. Rear discs requires a new master cylinder and proportioning valve.. not hard,
Click to expand...

sourbluff said:
Let me know what you end up looking for as far as brackets. Have basically full Artec Dana 30/Dana 44 set as I was going to rebuild an axle then changed directions so happy to make you a deal.

Not to push you further down rabbit hole, and shouldn’t be needed for 31s, but as you are already buying new driveshaft might think about SYE (and 33s when your tires wear out LOL). Better than deciding want 33s in a year and have to redo this one or buy another driveshaft.

This forum is great for advice and spending other people’s money so trying to make sure we are doing both for you! 😉
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Yeah, for sure. I definitely appreciate the offer. I'm going to do a little more research tonight around 2am when things are slow at work, but I will probably go back to the stock configuration. If I go that route, I will absolutely reach out! I appreciate it.

As far as the SYE goes, I'm in all honesty probably going to go that route. I want to spend as little more as possible but I think it's good insurance against driveline issues for only a couple hundred bucks.
 
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JMT said:
@97TJNM, tough call if you don’t want to spend any more money. Easy call if you’re willing to put in some work and a little money. Selling the old axles would re-coup some.

I like this post by @SvtLdr
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...ce-on-axle-swap-and-re-gear.56376/post-988540
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Very good observation. After reading and responding all day yesterday to this thread, it clarified for me that my biggest concern was running 31s on 4.88s. I know to go to 33s I'm going to have to shell out lots of $ to go to bigger tires and put on a lift that can handle the extra meat.

Since most are saying that 31s and 4.88s are doable, then the big expenditures for this swap boil down to drive shafts, SYE, and air compressor. Which will keep me close to the $1500 more that I'm willing to spend at this time. And it leaves the option for more lift and bigger tires in a couple years, which would be awesome. It's just not doable for me now.

And you're right. The post by SvtLdr was great. So we're many others. This community really reached out to help me out in my delimma. I'm grateful to all ya'll!
 
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97TJNM said:
Very good observation. After reading and responding all day yesterday to this thread, it clarified for me that my biggest concern was running 31s on 4.88s. I know to go to 33s I'm going to have to shell out lots of $ to go to bigger tires and put on a lift that can handle the extra meat.

Since most are saying that 31s and 4.88s are doable, then the big expenditures for this swap boil down to drive shafts, SYE, and air compressor. Which will keep me close to the $1500 more that I'm willing to spend at this time. And it leaves the option for more lift and bigger tires in a couple years, which would be awesome. It's just not doable for me now.

And you're right. The post by SvtLdr was great. So we're many others. This community really reached out to help me out in my delimma. I'm grateful to all ya'll!
Click to expand...
As long as you figured out to stay away from that Artec bullshit, it's all good.
 
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