Loud squeak / chirping noise (not a belt or pulley issue)

Since you have confirmed the noise is definitely coming from under the valve cover.
Do you hear a popping sound at the exhaust pipe ?
Have you removed any spark plugs to compare them ?
That sounds like either a rocker arm or possibly even a pushrod....
 
Fingers crossed. Lol. If I can't find the source up top I'll start looking at issues underneath. I'll need a rear main seal soon anyway.

What you are describing is exactly where I was getting the sound, I was thinking maybe the cam was binding or something. You say you are looking at the rear seal change shortly? Bite the bullet and drop the pan! The crank moving fore and aft will cause the rear seal to wear faster, plus you don't want to tear up the crank!
 
Last edited:
Alrighty, update! I pulled the valve cover and one of the rocker arms on the front pair is bone dry. Not getting any oil. I couldn't see through the pushrod so I blew it out. The clip/bridge that connects the rocker arms seems to be bent, which is odd. I don't want to put it back together until I get some replacement parts but I'm hoping that I had a minor blockage in the pushrod. Fingers crossed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Andrew Mac
Alrighty, update! I pulled the valve cover and one of the rocker arms on the front pair is bone dry. Not getting any oil. I couldn't see through the pushrod so I blew it out. The clip/bridge that connects the rocker arms seems to be bent, which is odd. I don't want to put it back together until I get some replacement parts but I'm hoping that I had a minor blockage in the pushrod. Fingers crossed.

Something I do every few thousand miles is to pour in a bottle of sea foam into the oil and run for about 300 miles prior to oil change. I helps to remove carbon and other deposits in the oil system.
Have you inspected the cam lobe for any scoring?
 
Something I do every few thousand miles is to pour in a bottle of sea foam into the oil and run for about 300 miles prior to oil change. I helps to remove carbon and other deposits in the oil system.
Have you inspected the cam lobe for any scoring?
I've gotten mixed reviews about using oil treatments but something I will consider if replacement rocker arms and pushrods works but I have a reoccurring blockage. Have you ever had any issue with an oil treatment breaking up a large build up and causing any additional problems? I haven't attempted to go deeper into the engine yet. If this works I probably will not make further inspections until I replaced the rear main seal. I now understand, thanks to google and a lot of fellow jeep owners help, the oil flow issue may be the lifter or wear on the cam lobes. There was not any gunk on the rocker arms but some pretty thick oil residue inside the valve cover. I should have the parts Wednesday. Hopefully have it put back together Friday. Then I'll see if I'm good to go or need to plan for the next step. Appreciate all the insight and advice.
 
I've gotten mixed reviews about using oil treatments but something I will consider if replacement rocker arms and pushrods works but I have a reoccurring blockage. Have you ever had any issue with an oil treatment breaking up a large build up and causing any additional problems? I haven't attempted to go deeper into the engine yet. If this works I probably will not make further inspections until I replaced the rear main seal. I now understand, thanks to google and a lot of fellow jeep owners help, the oil flow issue may be the lifter or wear on the cam lobes. There was not any gunk on the rocker arms but some pretty thick oil residue inside the valve cover. I should have the parts Wednesday. Hopefully have it put back together Friday. Then I'll see if I'm good to go or need to plan for the next step. Appreciate all the insight and advice.

I have not experienced any negative results with the sea foam. I use it in both the oil and fuel systems. As stated, I only run it in the oil system for about 300 miles, every 3000 miles.
What prompted my use in the oil system was a fluctuation in oil pressure at idle. The pressure would drop off to almost zero. It seamed small carbon deposits would settle in the oil pressure relief valve. the valve is a ball that is held on a seat by a spring. Carbon was getting stuck between the ball and the seat.

Since the addition of Sea Foam, the issue has gone away.

Same in the fuel system, every now and then it would idle rough, the Sea Foam helps clean the throttle body, injectors, and assorted fuel system components. Since the addition of Sea Foam the idle issue has cleared up.
I pour a can of Sea Foam in the fuel tank every 12 fill up's or so.

I run Mobil One oil and Costco gas here in Hawaii.
 
Alrighty, new issue. I replaced the front pair or rocker arms and pushrods. I cranked the engine no squeak or chirp but I'm getting no oil to any of the rocker arms. I make a closer inspection with a flashlight and find some sludge in the cylinder 4 valve with a distinctive green shine to it. I'm definitely got some coolant leaking into the oil. I guess first step is to drain the coolant and add water to the cooling system and then try to figure out how to get the oil moving again before I figure out what to do about my leak. Oil pressure guage is showing good pressure. Not really sure where to go from here.
 
Mileage is unknown. The odometer reads just over 140,000 but the speedometer is not correct. The previous owner didn't adjust it for the larger wheels. The oil is good and clean on the dipstick. Although, I let the shop that was working on my rear rotor breaks change the oil and I noticed they used a 5w30. What I could find on the internet said to use a 10w30. Not sure that small change in cold viscosity would make a difference in lubricating the engine. Given the area it's coming from I think it could possibly be in the front lifters. Will probably remove the valve cover and take a look this weekend. I attached a short clip of the noise. It's very high pitched.

5w 30 at 210 degrees is more like 5 weight oil then 30 huge difference , i run 10w40 and i run with no thermostat at 150 degrees so my oil is in the 75 percent stressed range of 10 40 so probably 10 weight at temp while yours is at 5 , the difference is the protection the oil offers ,, its possible that squeak your hearing is metal to metal contact because of the oil mistake and if its synthetic oil sludge builds up at 210 degrees and clogs the pushrods because 5 weight oil cant take the heat like 10 weight but also synthetic sludges up like mud in a jeep motor 5w20 is meant for a BMW with a 3.0 that has small pistons , lower engine temps and higher rpms