Low whirring noise on deceleration

BillNyeIsHigh

BillNyeIsHigh

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
May 10, 2018
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Location
Charleston, SC, USA
It’s hard to hear but it’s a low growl, almost similar to the sound of a Jake brake. Happens on deccel, louder in gear but still makes the sound with clutch in. Most noticable in 4th gear when engine braking. Is this a bad pinion bearing? Regear was done slightly longer than a year ago. The bearings should be good. Had the front diff open and there was some metal but seemed normal since it was the first time I had it open since the regear. Any ideas?


 
Update: I am getting a clicking when driving, I only here it when coasting and slowing down. Clutch in/out, in gear or out of gear. Speed of clicking is relative to speed. Seems to be DS speed and not tire/axle speed. Still whirs when engine braking.

I have all new u-joints, just did sye as well.
 
Never experienced it myself so no suggestions from me.

Although, I did have a smart ass Brother in Law that had me searching for a while once.


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Good luck, and I'll be following this as I plan on doing the SYE in the future and am curious of the source of the clicking.
 
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@BillNyeIsHigh do you have any updates? I'm having an incredibly similar issue. The only difference for mine is that it seems to go away when the clutch is disengaged or when the trans is in neutral. I've read a bunch of things about the pinion seal and/or bearing being a likely culprit.
 
Is it a rumble kind of noise? Remove your front and rear driveshafts one at a time and drive around to see if it's a driveshaft.
 
Ya, so I rebuilt my t-case this past weekend and it didn't solve a thing. I was driving and starting getting a very loud clicking at wheel speed. Threw it up on some jack stands and it sounds like it is the diff. I get the clicking on accel/under power and when I push in the clutch it goes away and if engine braking I get the whir.

I dropped it off at a local 4x4 shop last night, I just missed a call from them but it is after hours. My guess is that it is a combination of things in the diff. I will update when I get the full diagnosis.
 
Bummer that the t-case rebuild didn't solve it, but hey ... new t-case! I'd put $5 on the pinion seal, bearing, ring, and/or gear. And I hope it doesn't cost you an arm and a leg. Let me know what comes of it.
 
On the way home from work, the whining turned into WICKED grinding. I limped home, but it got to the point where slowing down to a stop felt like my rear end (I think) was seizing up. There's fluid leaking out from where the driveshaft goes in, so I fully expect my rearend to be complete trash now. Yay!
 
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fizzlebottom said:
On the way home from work, the whining turned into WICKED grinding. I limped home, but it got to the point where slowing down to a stop felt like my rear end (I think) was seizing up. There's fluid leaking out from where the driveshaft goes in, so I fully expect my rearend to be complete trash now. Yay!
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Thats a real bummer. But hey, on the brightside, you can upgrade carrier/gears if you were looking to do so.
 
Holy moly. The ring came straight off the carrier? I haven't had a chance to open mine up yet, but I think that maybe the ring & pinion decided to get too intimate. I'm guessing my pinion nut loosened up or something and let the pinion gear just go kamikaze.

Are you sticking with a Dana 35 or upgrading to a Dana 44? And are you paying the shop to do it or doing it yourself?
 
Well, this is my rear 44. That is a truetrac with 4.56. This is only a year after my regear. I'm going to see what we can work out but ultimately, the shop will be fixing it.
 
Got it. I've gotta figure out whether to rebuild my Dana 35 or try for some upgrade unit. I really don't go offroad right now, but also do not like having known weak parts in my vehicles. I called a shop and asked for a worst case estimate for a full Dana 35 rebuild. Nearly $3k. I'd rather do it myself if that's the case. I've rebuilt motors, motorcycle carbs, and clutches. I can do a rear end if I need.
 
fizzlebottom said:
Got it. I've gotta figure out whether to rebuild my Dana 35 or try for some upgrade unit. I really don't go offroad right now, but also do not like having known weak parts in my vehicles. I called a shop and asked for a worst case estimate for a full Dana 35 rebuild. Nearly $3k. I'd rather do it myself if that's the case. I've rebuilt motors, motorcycle carbs, and clutches. I can do a rear end if I need.
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In that case I would find a new shop. I would look into the Super 35. AFAIK, it is stronger than a stock 44. Not sure on the cost. Also, the only limiting factor for me rebuilding diffs is the setting up of the R&P. That takes skill and I know I do not have the tools/time/patience to do so.
 
Regears aren’t as simple as people think. I figured the pinion was gonna be ate up.

You’ll be ok, but I hate the aggravation for you.
 
AndyG said:
Regears aren’t as simple as people think. I figured the pinion was gonna be ate up.
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I'm guessing the actual gears are made from MUCH harder material than the carrier, so it makes sense. If the pinon and ring had it out, I'd have expected broken bits and pieces everywhere.

I've got a used Dana 44 in the works now, so everything will be tip-top in no time.
 
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fizzlebottom said:
I'm guessing the actual gears are made from MUCH harder material than the carrier, so it makes sense. If the pinon and ring had it out, I'd have expected broken bits and pieces everywhere.

I've got a used Dana 44 in the works now, so everything will be tip-top in no time.
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I had a very similar deal , very similar , pinion nut came loose ...you 'll be ok .

I know it's a pain.
 
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