Making a non-sub console into a sub console

An update...
As it was the seat and seat belt both touched the flat face of the pioneer 8". I didn't think to much of it becuase it still sounded nice. I did notice however at higher volume levels the sub would slap the seatbelt causing an unpleasant rattle sound. So, I added a grill so the sub could move unrestricted...

and
WOW

I didn't realize just how much the seat touching the sub was taking away from the bass. It was acting as a shock for the sub, especially really low deep notes. With the grill, I've doubled the bass output. The slap is gone of course.

So, I like to always follow up on my threads if I learn something new, or change my mind. I guess it was obvious, but add a grill if anything is touching your sub.
 
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The grill is a cheap one off Amazon, that's a tiny bit too small. You can see the speaker protruding around the outside of the grill which I don't like at all.

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Also, the seat squeaks against the grill. All of this is unacceptable.
So I'm looking for a new solution.
 
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  • Haha
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Solid work!! This is exactly what I've been looking for. Keep us posted with the final pic once you get the new grill installed. (and a link for the grill please).
 
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Gasman said:
Solid work!! This is exactly what I've been looking for. Keep us posted with the final pic once you get the new grill installed. (and a link for the grill please).
Click to expand...

Thanks!
So plan A was surface mounted sub without a grill. Plan A failed

Plan B was surface mounted sub with grill. Plan B has also failed. There just isn't room for it, the seat rubs enough on the grill that it squeaks when I sit down or hit a bump.

Plan C: There simply isn't room for anything mounted on the surface of the center console... so, I need to recess it down so it's flush. I'm waiting on a few tools to show up, then I'll show you how I'm going to do it.
 
Plan C:

So I purchased a proper hole saw jig for the router. The homemade one was cute and all, but sometimes you just need proper tools.
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After the countersunk hole was cut, I shaped the panel to fit in the sub using the first design as a template, then cut it in half so it would fit through the opening in the console. Long screws go completely through the tray and into the top of the panel, and screws hold the bottom in place as well. A few discretely placed surface mount screws hold the whole thing together nicely.

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Annoyingly, one of the screws that hold the top to the tray split the MDF. Not the end of the world but unfortunate. A flush cut bit in the router enlarged the hole in the plastic of the console from 7" to 8" cleanly. I used little T nuts to secure the speaker to the MDF, because wood screws would eventually strip the holes.

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Nice and discrete.

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And finally, the view from the top. There is about 5/8" between the seatbelt/seat and the face of the sub with me sitting in the seat. I'm very happy with how this turned out: Clean, discrete bass- Audio bliss- and pride of craftsmanship.
 
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TJ_Man99 said:
I might have missed it, but where did you put your amp?
Click to expand...
It's mounted under the steering column. First I made a bracket. I chose steel because I wanted to weld something. Its sometimes faster to weld something together than it is to bolt it together.
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Its bolted under the steering column.

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And then the amp is screwed to the bracket. I tapped threads into the bracket for easy assembly. Also drilled some holes for zip ties to secure the wiring.

IMG_20200112_170858.jpg
 
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Does anyone know if the white plastic liner can be found/ordered as a part#? And does the white plastic tub fit in an OEM Subwoofer style console?
I have a TJ with a subwoofer console and oem sub that i am about to replace. It seems like using this tub would provide more volume than re-using the factory sub which also has the factory amp taking up space?
 
Tedmid said:
Does anyone know if the white plastic liner can be found/ordered as a part#? And does the white plastic tub fit in an OEM Subwoofer style console?
I have a TJ with a subwoofer console and oem sub that i am about to replace. It seems like using this tub would provide more volume than re-using the factory sub which also has the factory amp taking up space?
Click to expand...
Try Davey's Jeeps.
 
kmas0n said:
My TJ Gru, as with all 2000's, left the factory without a subwoofer in the center console, it simply wasn't an option yet. So, It's time to fix that.

My console is in great shape, with the white plastic insert. Over the past 19 years or so, I've found that its too deep and things just get lost in a pile of clutter at the bottom. I'm not the kind of guy that likes to carry a bunch of crap around, so the console is a great place to put the sub. I've looked at many options, including just buying a console with the sub enclosure built-in already, but where's the fun in that?

I want a small tray that I can still set my phone or wallet on, And I want an 8" shallow mount sub. The enclosure will be sealed and have a little less than 0.5 cu ft of airspace. The first step is removing the console from the jeep, then drilling out the 4 rivets holding the two pieces together. I was pleased to see that when the two pieces are together, they touch each other already, so there won't be a gap I will have to deal with when mounting the sub.

View attachment 127952

The orange tape line is the approx location of the seat. The plastic locking tab broke a decade ago. You can see the plastic tub has already been removed. I took the tub and turned it upside down tracing the basic shape onto some 3/4" MDF. After a little tweaking, I got it to fit flush inside. Then I traced the console opening on the MDF so I know the basic shape of that. I Enlarged it a little so it's countersunk and the top won't be visible. A simple drywall screw is my handle.

View attachment 127953

Using a drill for the radius turns, and then a coping saw to connect the dots, I cut out the basic shape...

View attachment 127954

And then finished the shape with sandpaper wrapped around some steel...

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Then over to the router table and a 1/2" flush bit duplicated the inside shape on another piece of MDF, the two pieces were glued and screwed together. The screws will come out after it dries.

View attachment 127956

And then a bottom was added, the cubby will be about 1.5" deep. Just enough for wallet and phone. A little more shaping was required on the bottom to clear the indent for the parking brake, but not much.

View attachment 127957

I'm holding it in the approximate location. Remember the agate console opening is smaller than the plastic or wood, so the top will not be exposed at all. I wanted a nice soft touch and considered felt, but decided to try a very thick coat of plasti dip for a rubberized feel. If it doesn't look good or hold up, I'll do the felt thing. Although it is shiny in this picture, plasti dip dries flat

View attachment 127958

While that was drying I started trying to finalize the location of the sub in the enclosure... This is where I am at for now...

View attachment 127959
Click to expand...

Man you are handy as all get out. Great job.
 
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