Marvel mystery oil? Is it snake oil or not?

Stuff like that will get you moved from my guys I don't mind helping list over to the FOAD list in a heartbeat. That shit is old and busted and never should have happened to begin with. There is a reason folks like Currie stuff and there are reasons not to. Neither side should be fanatical about it. The biggest reason for you being on the list is I don't interact well with shit stirrers.

Wait....you are wanting to move me to a "fuck off and die list" because I was teasing Chris about his self proclaimed "love of all things Currie"? Perhaps you need to step away from the keyboard for a little bit.
 
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And I've had a set of those MORE mounts that I removed from Kat's rig and given away 3 times and they keep coming back. Next time they do, they're going in the trash.
LOL, really! It's been a while since I had that rig but those mounts seemed ok to me. What was it you didn't like? Their rubber is probably a bit stiffer than the OE mount rubber is.
 
@mrblaine, you still need to give me the name / part number of that stuff you used for your lifter. I'm going to try it just for the hell of it!
 
Oil is Oil....
Synthetic is good in extreme environments.
Additives??? If they were good, the producers would add them.
Marvel Comics /Snake Oil... should add all the definition required.

serbonze.... great illustration !!
 
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I got a can of that Seafoam that sprays directly into your throttle body. It takes two people, one to hold the can up in there while squeezing the trigger and someone with their foot in the gas keeping the RPM's up a little.

Surprisingly, I didn't get any smoke at all out the back.

I saw a video of a guy comparing all the cleaners and he used a snake cam to look inside and the only one that removed carbon build up was the Seafoam I described above.
 
Just read the post, I'd say snake oil for sure. The only one I ever fell for was many years ago-Slick 50. Saw the infommertials of the dry, cold starts and the oil being in the pan. Fell for the teflon coating on all metal parts not falling off the metal. I used that on every vehicle I had till I wanted it for my newly purchased tj and I couldn't find the miracle additive anywhere. I researched it and found it is no longer made.(they still make some products but NOT the original and the remaining additives advise adding at every oil change, not every 50,000 mi like the original miracle additive. What my internet research told me was the teflon actually clogged small ports or choked them down (and other issues) causing more harm than good. I used it probably to excess in a brand-new dual purpose motorcycle and really took great care of it- this was a 600 cc but 1 cylinder motor and started burning oil like you wouldn't believe way before it should have even without the snake oil that presumably ruined it. Anybody here ever take a motor apart after it sat for some time and find the internals bone-dry? I would bet not. Sorry for the long and late reply, but I would say stay away from almost any oil additive and save your money, especially if you treat you tj to syn oil. ;)
 
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Just read the post, I'd say snake oil for sure. The only one I ever fell for was many years ago-Slick 50. Saw the infommertials of the dry, cold starts and the oil being in the pan. Fell for the teflon coating on all metal parts not falling off the metal. I used that on every vehicle I had till I wanted it for my newly purchased tj and I couldn't find the miracle additive anywhere. I researched it and found it is no longer made.(they still make some products but NOT the original and the remaining additives advise adding at every oil change, not every 50,000 mi like the original miracle additive. What my internet research told me was the teflon actually clogged small ports or choked them down (and other issues) causing more harm than good. I used it probably to excess in a brand-new dual purpose motorcycle and really took great care of it- this was a 600 cc but 1 cylinder motor and started burning oil like you wouldn't believe way before it should have even without the snake oil that presumably ruined it. Anybody here ever take a motor apart after it sat for some time and find the internals bone-dry? I would bet not. Sorry for the long and late reply, but I would say stay away from almost any oil additive and save your money, especially if you treat you tj to syn oil. ;)

I remember Slick 50, and I fell for it too!
 
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Nothing I have used in the past gets carbon off your pistons and varnish out of your ring grooves as well as Marvel.

Tested and proven in my book. Do whatever you like. I'm not here to argue and you shouldn't either because you won't change my mind.

Now, back to your regularly scheduled programming. :cool:
 
If it were me I would have tried to figure out what was causing the knock and fixed it. The additives, even if they do work would just be a band-aid covering up the actual issue.
So, if varnish was the issue, you'd rather tear the motor down, clean or replace the lifter? I'd rather clean it in place. There is no 'masking a worn part'. There is help for malfunctions caused by varnish and carbon buildup.
 
Oil is Oil....
Synthetic is good in extreme environments.
Additives??? If they were good, the producers would add them.
Marvel Comics /Snake Oil... should add all the definition required.

serbonze.... great illustration !!


Which is why diet Coke has vitamin D in it, right? ;)
 
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So, if varnish was the issue, you'd rather tear the motor down, clean or replace the lifter? I'd rather clean it in place. There is no 'masking a worn part'. There is help for malfunctions caused by varnish and carbon buildup.

How would I even be able to tell if the carbon buildup (or whatever else) was gone without tearing things apart?
 
You were able to run regular gas with the stock 8deg advance without detonation, rather than the 3deg, premium fuel AND octane boost. o_O

Now ask, "But how would I know the varnish was gone from my lifter valves and scraper rings?"
 
Snake oil. Its primary ingredient is nothing more than kerosene.

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I agree, Jerry. As you might know, I retired from the ExxonMobil refinery in Beaumont, Texas & I made gasoline, diesel fuel & various lube components for a living. I’ve learned that the additive package that is added to fuels & lubricants at the refinery blending facilities is completely adaquate in all applications. There are probably 2 notable exceptions; one is Sta-Bil which is good for gasoline that must be stored for long periods of time such as fuel for lawn equipment. I use it in my motorhome because it may sit for a couple of months at a time. When I add it to the gas tank I also run the generator to be sure there’s fresh treated fuel in that as well. The other exception would be some kind of additive to counteract the ill effects of ethanol that refiners are mandated to blend into gasoline. Most modern engines, including out TJs, do OK on an ethanol blend of 10% or less, but lawn equipment & very old engines don’t like it at all. My brother owns 2 antique Harleys & he found out the hard way.
 
I agree, Jerry. As you might know, I retired from the ExxonMobil refinery in Beaumont, Texas & I made gasoline, diesel fuel & various lube components for a living. I’ve learned that the additive package that is added to fuels & lubricants at the refinery blending facilities is completely adaquate in all applications. There are probably 2 notable exceptions; one is Sta-Bil which is good for gasoline that must be stored for long periods of time such as fuel for lawn equipment. I use it in my motorhome because it may sit for a couple of months at a time. When I add it to the gas tank I also run the generator to be sure there’s fresh treated fuel in that as well. The other exception would be some kind of additive to counteract the ill effects of ethanol that refiners are mandated to blend into gasoline. Most modern engines, including out TJs, do OK on an ethanol blend of 10% or less, but lawn equipment & very old engines don’t like it at all. My brother owns 2 antique Harleys & he found out the hard way.
Agree 100% on all that. Ethanol was definitely great at eating up the plastic internals of my lawnmower's carburetor so after two replacement carburetors and paying $20 twice for a gallon of non-ethanol gasoline from Home Depot I gave that lawnmower away and now run a 60v lithium battery lawn mower. Stabil and another so-called ethanol treatment never helped my lawn mower but I do put Stabil in my TJ since it sits up to a couple months at a time this past year with so much else going on with me.

Yeah I learned about ethanol the hard way, I even tried to buy 5 gallons of non-ethanol when I was in Nevada last month but couldn't even find it there. Effing EPA! :mad:
 
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Agree 100% on all that. Ethanol was definitely great at eating up the plastic internals of my lawnmower's carburetor so after two replacement carburetors and paying $20 twice for a gallon of non-ethanol gasoline from Home Depot I gave that lawnmower away and now run a 60v lithium battery lawn mower. Stabil and another so-called ethanol treatment never helped my lawn mower but I do put Stabil in my TJ since it sits up to a couple months at a time this past year with so much else going on with me.

Yeah I learned about ethanol the hard way, I even tried to buy 5 gallons of non-ethanol when I was in Nevada last month but couldn't even find it there. Effing EPA! :mad:
Their E-go series aren't bad and you can get interchangeable batteries. I switched three years ago and haven't looked back since. Leaf blower, weed whacker and mower all share the same battery connectors (the leaf blower with the mower battery is on another level as far as clearing dry snow from the vehicles in the morning as well)

My kid can hang around while I cut the grass and can have a conversation as well
 
Their E-go series aren't bad and you can get interchangeable batteries. I switched three years ago and haven't looked back since. Leaf blower, weed whacker and mower all share the same battery connectors (the leaf blower with the mower battery is on another level as far as clearing dry snow from the vehicles in the morning as well)
I bought into the Toro line of battery lawn equipment, same deal... they're all compatible with the same battery pack. I just bought the string trimmer last week which uses the same type of 60v battery, batteries can be shared between them.
 
I bought into the Toro line of battery lawn equipment, same deal... they're all compatible with the same battery pack. I just bought the string trimmer last week which uses the same type of 60v battery, batteries can be shared between them.
It really is the way to go for home gardens and the like. Unless you have huge acreage, electric should be good.
 
I bought into the Toro line of battery lawn equipment, same deal... they're all compatible with the same battery pack. I just bought the string trimmer last week which uses the same type of 60v battery, batteries can be shared between them.
The Toros are nice, and I recommend them to a lot of my small engine customers. I think for a homeowner with a small yard who doesn't want to mess with gas, especially mixing for 2-stroke equipment that is used sparingly, it's the perfect solution.

As far as MMO, it's probably the only additive I use besides Sta-bil for lawn equipment. I mostly just use a small dose of it in the fuel, or to free up stuck engines on antique equipment. It's basically Kerosine, and like others have stated it isn't needed unless there is an issue. Putting a small dose of it in the fuel tank of two of my old XJs for a couple fill-ups seemed to completely resolve the extended crank issue I had from a fuel pump check valve issue. My guess was it cleaned up the sticking valve in both Jeeps. I wouldn't put it in the oil, or use it for anything else though.