MCE fenders on sale

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At 4.25” front and 3.75” rear, could I run 35’s with the MCE’s?
 
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JMT said:
At 4.25” front and 3.75” rear, could I run 35’s with the MCE’s?
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On my particular setup but with MCEs, 35s would start to dig into the rear fender wall at full flex, full steering lock.

Currently, mine with 33s is bumped to keep the tires just out of the front fender lip at full flex. There is just enough room to fit my fingers in between the tire and rear wall at full lock, full flex.
 
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jjvw said:
On my particular setup but with MCEs, 35s would start to dig into the rear fender wall at full flex, full steering lock.

Currently, mine is bumped to keep the tires just out of the front fender lip at full flex. There is just enough room to fit my fingers in between the tire and rear wall at full lock, full flex.
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“That’s a negative ghost rider, the wheel well is full.”
 
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tworley said:
Cycle at the right speed and to work with the stock incandescent bulbs as well. I already have the JK turn signals in my grill, but tucked the old side marker lights up and in the engine, would like to dig them back out and mount in my aluminum inner fenders.
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I went full LED WITH A 2.5” grommeted light in the grill and a 3/4” grommeted in the hole where the original wires came through the fender well
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476300F5-58A9-45E0-93E7-DFA1792137A1.jpeg
 
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Seems like a great option indeed. How is the color fade on these being that they're made of ABS?


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Ephry73 said:
Seems like a great option indeed. How is the color fade on these being that they're made of ABS?
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Gen II is made from TPO, not ABS. Beyond that, I don't know the differences between the two materials.
 
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jjvw said:
Your 33s hit both the upper lip and the rear wall at the same time?
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Sorry for the oblique Top Gun semi-quote. Just mean to say your answer is a negative, it won’t work.

I wonder how much more bumpstop I would need to keep it out of the rear wheel well at full stuff full steering lock?

Have you had issues on the trail due to your 33’s that would have been solved with 35’s, given all else equal?
 
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DrDmoney said:
I ran 35’s on 4” SL and no BL with them.
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I have 3” SL up front, 2.5” SL rear and a 1.25”BL. What do you think? Same scenario? Have to increase bump and lose up travel?
 
JMT said:
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I wonder how much more bumpstop I would need to keep it out of the rear wheel well at full stuff full steering lock?
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My guess is 3/4 - 1" more bump.

JMT said:
Have you had issues on the trail due to your 33’s that would have been solved with 35’s, given all else equal?
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A few here have seen me dragging diffs and frame side control arm mounts. An extra inch of tire would make a difference.
 
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We use a lot of TPO and EPDM in Commercial Roofing. The mil thickness whether .045 .060 or .090 determines the warranty length because of UV degradation of the membrane over time. TPO is a very durable roof material but is susceptible to prolonged UV exposure unlike EPDM (rubber). We only use white and gray TPO membranes, but I haven't seen any significant color fade in the gray overtime. I believe coloring is throughout the TPO material and not just on the top layer. Not sure how this translates to the TPO fenders under consideration, but thought id throw it out there nonetheless.
 
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DrDmoney said:
Yes with the stock fenders for sure
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I'm asking for my scenario with MCE's, not stock. Well, let me think this through. MCE's use the stock fender, but you cut it, right? Get rid of the pinch weld? Is that where you get your up, plus a little flex from the MCE plastic?
 
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