MCE fenders on sale

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So, I could add 3/4-1" bumpstop, cut the fenders and be good to go. Not ideal as far as travel, but I have some free 35's coming this Friday and I'm trying to sort out if I want to clean them up and use them or let them go to someone else. 35's means more in other departments too; chromoly shafts, BMBrake Pads and probably front CA's

I think I saw some fenders on CL for sale around here. I might snap those up and keep my stock.
 
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So, I could add 3/4-1" bumpstop, cut the fenders and be good to go. Not ideal as far as travel, but I have some free 35's coming this Friday and I'm trying to sort out if I want to clean them up and use them or let them go to someone else. 35's means more in other departments too; chromoly shafts, BMBrake Pads and probably front CA's

I think I saw some fenders on CL for sale around here. I might snap those up and keep my stock.
I would keep your stock fenders intact unless they are damaged like mine were. If you can get some extras I would go that route
 
I ordered those instead. The 10 pack from Amazon is going back. :)

This is for use on the regular TJ flares? I have also been thinking to get them. I will tell you that they are very bright after seeing them in person.

I have seen that post of JF about the diode/resistor modification and it's just too painful and I am not sure I understand it 100% (and I say that as a EE).
 
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This is for use on the regular TJ flares? I have also been thinking to get them. I will tell you that they are very bright after seeing them in person.

I have seen that post of JF about the diode/resistor modification and it's just too painful and I am not sure I understand it 100% (and I say that as a EE).

The set from MCE is for non stock locations. I'll be putting them in today and hopefully get it all done for now.
20200118_124451.jpg


20200118_155846.jpg
 
Here's a few pics of the rear flares for those wondering why they are worth considering over stock.

In addition to matching the fronts, the rears are fully detachable without tools or just by using a big rock or a tree.

20200119_111058.jpg

20200119_111133.jpg

20200119_111214.jpg
 
Here's a few pics of the rear flares for those wondering why they are worth considering over stock.

In addition to matching the fronts, the rears are fully detachable without tools or just by using a big rock or a tree.

View attachment 135343
View attachment 135344
View attachment 135346
The set from MCE is for non stock locations. I'll be putting them in today and hopefully get it all done for now.
View attachment 135317

View attachment 135318


Looks great. How much more clearance did you gain?
 
... How much more clearance did you gain?

None at all. ;)

Even with having moved all the shock mounts and reduced the bump stop as much as is reasonably possible, the limits to up were never the 33" tires. Once I move to 35s, the front flares will allow for some room for 35s above the tire. The new limit will be the rear wall in the two areas circled here...
20200119_114110.jpg


To occupy that space with a larger tire, I am going to have to move that part of the fender out of the way somehow. That is why a true highline with a larger inner fender like GenRight is the better option for clearance.
 
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On a 33s build like mine but with Currie bump stops or similar with a domed bump profile, there might be the ability to flex above the hood line a bit and bend the flare, but then the rear wall of the wheel opening might come into play in a meaningful way.
 
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None at all. ;)

Even with having moved all the shock mounts and reduced the bump stop as much as is reasonably possible, the limits to up were never the 33" tires. Once I move to 35s, the front flares will allow for some room for 35s above the tire. The new limit will be the rear wall in the two areas circled here...
View attachment 135347

To occupy that space with a larger tire, I am going to have to move that part of the fender out of the way somehow. That is why a true highline with a larger inner fender like GenRight is the better option for clearance.
None at all. ;)

Even with having moved all the shock mounts and reduced the bump stop as much as is reasonably possible, the limits to up were never the 33" tires. Once I move to 35s, the front flares will allow for some room for 35s above the tire. The new limit will be the rear wall in the two areas circled here...
View attachment 135347

To occupy that space with a larger tire, I am going to have to move that part of the fender out of the way somehow. That is why a true highline with a larger inner fender like GenRight is the better option for clearance.

Ha, just saw this. I asked a question in your build thread but I think I have the answer here atleast part of it. Sorry for the confusion.
 
when I first installed these my plans were to raise the battery tray and turn the battery on it’s side, eliminate the outermost support behind the two bolts circled in yellow and bend the fender along the red line to reattach the inner fender to. I expected some patchwork and hammer and dolly work. When I installed my current wheels I had less contact than the previous wheels did. When I went to a high pinion 44 and moved the axle as far forward as I could without conflict while cycling I found that I had almost eliminated any conflict.
BB8C3485-72DF-4919-9A73-B8F7726BC9AD.jpeg
 
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