Measure Once, Cut Twice: A Story of Excitement and Impatience

Mar 9, 2020

Installed my Savvy Under Armour last night. It was quite challenging installing the outer Cs. Required 2 large C clamps and some vise grips with a longer bolt to crank down and close the gap to attach the inner C uppers to the outer Cs. When @mrblaine says he made the outer Cs tight and curses every time he installs them, I know exactly what he means now. Nevertheless, it is mostly installed. For some reason, the holes on the skid for the lower C bracket bolts to recess into only align on passenger side. It seems as though I'm going to have to ream out the driver side so the bolts can recess when installing the skid. Anyone else have this issue?
By the way, I had zero clearance issues between the tub and the transfer case. Go figure

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Mar 9, 2020
mrblaine said:
That's one of the challenges designing for the TJ. The frame rails move around a bunch and those holes are not a snug fit, there is some room in there and it's still not enough. Just so you know, I've put on several where the bolt heads hit dead center in the holes.
I get it. Hardly anything on either of my TJs has been consistent other than inconsistency. Interestingly enough, I have at least a half inch of clearance between my transfer case and my tub without having had to dent my tub or manipulate it at all. Same thing with my exhaust, no manipulation or rework needed. By the way, love the design of the crossmember and skid system.
 
Mar 9, 2020
Apparition said:
Wish I had smaller hands when bolting the skid to the cross members. Not looking forward to removing it when I finally add a Rubicrawler. Like the skid setup once installed though.
Me too. I found putting the flange nut on the crossmember rail, then putting my finger on top of the flange nut and sliding it over the hole, and then running the screw up into the flange nut worked better than trying to fit my entire hand up in there.
 
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Well, fellas, that's all I got tonight. I'm beat. Here is a when I got it and what it is now comparison. What I am most proud of are the most significant changes you can't even see unless you crawl underneath.

I'm installing a rockjock 60 weekend after next and then a rockjock 44 once it gets built and shipped to me in the next couple months. I got amazing deals on both and I've had so many issues with my factory lockers.

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Edit: this is most recent pick with UCF skid, not the Savvy I installed. Rig is currently on Jack stands.
 
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If they're touching, make room or suffer noises.
They're not. That's the funny thing. There is at least 1/8" clearance between all points on TC and tub without me having to dent the tub. Only part of the tuck I didn't have issues with.

1/2" all typical contact points except the notorious area where I have 1/8" clearance.
 
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They're not. That's the funny thing. There is at least 1/8" clearance between all points on TC and tub without me having to dent the tub. Only part of the tuck I didn't have issues with.

1/2" all typical contact points except the notorious area where I have 1/8" clearance.
What are you doing with the UCF skid?
 
Why did you switch to the Savvy skid?

Did you have the ultra low UCF (or however they name it)?
Because my rig is still a work in progress I got tired of having to support the drivetrain everytime I wanted or needed to access underneath. Having to replace my skid nutserts because the muffler shop overtorqued them was the final straw. I love the Savvy trans crossmember independent of the skid. If I were already finished with my build probably wouldn't have minded so much because need for access would be minimal unless I broke something.

I had the middle one: extra clearance that supposedly only needed either a body lift OR a MML. I ended up needing both so I regretted not getting the Savvy in the first place since I had to do all the work associated with installing the Savvy anyway.
 
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I have the following on the way that I will be installing during my axle swaps:

Currie Bump Stop kits front and rear
YJ extended brake lines for front
E brake lines and backing plates with kit
Rear hard and flex brake lines from Currie
 
Got new body mounts and installed them. After removing the old ones, the rubber looks to be in great condition, only the metal sleeves were corroded. I'll keep the Mopar rubbers for spares. Side by side the new ones are slightly taller than the old ones; I'm assuming from 15 yrs of compression.

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Dana 44 out and RJ60 in. Whoo, this thing is massive. Pretty smooth install, but a few hiccups preventing it from completion:

1. Currie sent wrong brake line kit. Soft line way to short plus no convenient place to install distribution block included. Reusing old soft line for placement of block and running of hard lines. Having Currie sent correct one.

2. Couldn't reuse outer soft lines with new line ran because it's am integrated one piece (soft line is joined to hard line by permanent fitting-no way to disconnect.) Ordering new outer soft lines today.

3. Installed Currie bump stop kit and cycled suspension. Shocks bottom out with 3/4" before stops touch. Need to add 1" to 1.25" extension to bumps. I thought these kits were for 4" suspension lifts?

4. Cannot flip and reuse rear sway bar as it contacts bottom of diff even though Currie says this can be done. Need to have a custom one made or go with a rear Antirock. Would like something stiffer than Antirock so leaning toward custom. Anyone have any alternatives?

5. Track bar bracket is way to wide for JJ on Currie track bar. Used washers to shim for now. Do I really have to order the larger JJ?

6. Need to send shaft to TW to get a 1350 joint installed to fit diff yoke. No big deal as I knew that going into this.

Other than that, install went smooth. Clearance is great between diff and gas tank. Thanks again @toximus for the Genright Ext Krawler tank.

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Shout out to @7slotjunky for the help today. Thank you.
 
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Dana 44 out and RJ60 in. Whoo, this thing is massive. Pretty smooth install, but a few hiccups preventing it from completion:

1. Currie sent wrong brake line kit. Soft line way to short plus no convenient place to install distribution block included. Reusing old soft line for placement of block and running of hard lines.

2. Couldn't reuse outer soft lines with new line ran because it's am integrated one piece (soft line is joined to hard line by permanent fitting-no way to disconnect.) Ordering new outer soft lines today.

3. Installed Currie bump stop kit and cycled suspension. Shocks bottom out with 3/4" before stops touch. Need to add 1" to 1.25" extension to bumps. I thought these kits were for 4" suspension lifts?

4. Cannot flip and reuse rear sway bar as it contacts bottom of diff even though Currie says this can be done. Need to have a custom one made or go with a rear Antirock. Would like something stiffer than Antirock so leaning toward custom. Anyone have any alternatives?

5. Track bar bracket is way to wide for JJ on Currie track bar. Used washers to shim for now. Do I really have to order the larger JJ?

6. Need to send shaft to TW to get a 1350 joint installed to fit diff yoke. No big deal as I knew that going into this.

Other than that, install went smooth. Clearance is great between diff and gas tank. Thanks again @toximus for the Genright Ext Krawler tank.

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On my RJ60 I ended up cutting the head off a bolt and welding it to the axle as a stud for mounting the brake distribution block.
 
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